2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
10-29-2013 | 09:52 PM
#9691
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 205
Alright LAZNICK,
I've had this on the back burner for a long time, but you motivated me to take a look at it. The farthest you can move the battery is about 1/2". That puts the battery right up against the motor mount. I came up with a stop plate that will bolt up to the motor mount. You will have to do a little surgery to your battery tray to make it work. It's not too hard. It took me about 5 minutes with a Dremel tool.
There will also need to be a spacer on the inside of the battery to keep it from rubbing on the drive line. It will be screwed to the inside of the battery tray.
Let me know if you guys are interested. I haven't settled on a price yet, but it will probably be about $20-$25.
Thanks,
Chris
I've had this on the back burner for a long time, but you motivated me to take a look at it. The farthest you can move the battery is about 1/2". That puts the battery right up against the motor mount. I came up with a stop plate that will bolt up to the motor mount. You will have to do a little surgery to your battery tray to make it work. It's not too hard. It took me about 5 minutes with a Dremel tool.
There will also need to be a spacer on the inside of the battery to keep it from rubbing on the drive line. It will be screwed to the inside of the battery tray.
Let me know if you guys are interested. I haven't settled on a price yet, but it will probably be about $20-$25.
Thanks,
Chris
Your efforts will appeal to some tekno fans out there Iam sure
But I Would like tekno to design something as an option or made as standard for the buggy
Thanks for being pro active keep up your good work mate
10-29-2013 | 11:55 PM
#9692
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 205
As a matter of fact, you can, (The 1/2, that is.) The latest packages of TKR5021 have the 1/2 pills. We updated the mold so you'll now have an "in-between" setting for fine tuning. The new pill has two dots on it, one centered and the other offset towards the hole location.
As for a 1.5 setting, there's some issues with making those. First you'll start getting very close to the edge of the pills and having thin spots. Second thing is that if you were to run max settings on your car you have a little less hinge pin engagement inside the pill which could cause it to pop out under extreme situations. Lastly, again when running a max setting, you could introduce some mechanical binding in the suspension movement. Also, I'm not sure when you'd really need that extra 1/2 degree, with the optional 1.5 toe block you should be good.
(The 1/2, that is.) The latest packages of TKR5021 have the 1/2 pills. We updated the mold so you'll now have an "in-between" setting for fine tuning. The new pill has two dots on it, one centered and the other offset towards the hole location. As for a 1.5 setting, there's some issues with making those. First you'll start getting very close to the edge of the pills and having thin spots. Second thing is that if you were to run max settings on your car you have a little less hinge pin engagement inside the pill which could cause it to pop out under extreme situations. Lastly, again when running a max setting, you could introduce some mechanical binding in the suspension movement. Also, I'm not sure when you'd really need that extra 1/2 degree, with the optional 1.5 toe block you should be good.
Mat can you explain what do the dots mean on set up sheets for both front inner and outer braces
And rear inner and outer braces and their explanations on set up sheet what do they mean
And when using the 1/2 pill how would that be represented and what will it mean on set up sheet in both front and rear applications
Also I believe the stock tkr5013 should be part of the eb48.2 the rear outer brace only, that will give you more toe adjustments below the tkr5013b option brace for those looking for that ability like myself
10-30-2013 | 09:14 AM
#9693
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,546
From: Northern VA
If you go to page 1 of this thread it has the pictures and text explaining the information below.
INNER HINGE PIN ADJUSTMENTS
The EB48 has adjustable hinge pin holders that allow users to fine tune their truck for different tracks, conditions, or driving styles.
The front outer adjusts the amount of front arm "sweep" in 1 degree increments from 1 degree forward to 1 degree back.
Looking at the picture, the top option is swept forward and the bottom is swept back with the middle being straight.
The front inner adjusts the amount of arm kick-up in 1 degree increments from 10 degrees up to 12 degrees. This in turn also adjusts your total caster angle from 20-22 degrees.
Looking at the picture, the top option is 10 and 20 degrees (kick-up and total caster), the middle is 11 and 21 degrees, and the bottom is 12 and 22 degrees.
The rear outer adjusts your toe angle in 1 degree increments from 1.5 degrees up to 3.5 degrees.
Looking at the picture, the top option is 1.5 degrees of toe-in, the middle is 2.5, and the bottom is 3.5.
The rear inner adjust anti squat angle in 1 degree increments from 1 degree up to 3 degrees.
Looking at the picture, the top option is 3 degrees of anti-squat, the middle is 2, and the bottom is 1.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 708x519 and weights 49KB.
Arm Sweep
The purpose of sweeping the arm forward or backward is mostly to sweep the driveshafts forward or backward. When the driveshafts are angled it changes how the car reacts on and off power. (This goes for the rear driveshafts as well.)
When the driveshafts are swept forwards, the stub axles are being twisted down toward the ground, pushing down on the tires and lifting the front of the chassis. This can be helpful in really bumpy sections to keep the front up and not dig in. It will also create more weight transfer to the front during braking which will increase your off-power steering.
When the driveshafts are swept backwards, the stub axles are now being twisted up, lifting the tires and pushing the chassis down. We've found that the biggest benefit to sweeping the arms back is jump landing. With the arms back, the car kind of "sucks" itself to the ground. It settles much faster and allows you to get on the throttle immediately. During breaking and off throttle the chassis will stay a little flatter front to back and either feel "pushy" or more controlled into the corner.
You can adjust the rear sweep by changing the wheelbase.
It's possible to have toe in on the rear and have the axles swept backwards (not on our car, I'm just making a generalization), but it doesn't handle well. It will squat really hard on acceleration and the nose will dip under braking. If any of you have ever driven a Revo with the long wheelbase rear arms you know what I'm talking about
INNER HINGE PIN ADJUSTMENTS
The EB48 has adjustable hinge pin holders that allow users to fine tune their truck for different tracks, conditions, or driving styles.
The front outer adjusts the amount of front arm "sweep" in 1 degree increments from 1 degree forward to 1 degree back.
Looking at the picture, the top option is swept forward and the bottom is swept back with the middle being straight.
The front inner adjusts the amount of arm kick-up in 1 degree increments from 10 degrees up to 12 degrees. This in turn also adjusts your total caster angle from 20-22 degrees.
Looking at the picture, the top option is 10 and 20 degrees (kick-up and total caster), the middle is 11 and 21 degrees, and the bottom is 12 and 22 degrees.
The rear outer adjusts your toe angle in 1 degree increments from 1.5 degrees up to 3.5 degrees.
Looking at the picture, the top option is 1.5 degrees of toe-in, the middle is 2.5, and the bottom is 3.5.
The rear inner adjust anti squat angle in 1 degree increments from 1 degree up to 3 degrees.
Looking at the picture, the top option is 3 degrees of anti-squat, the middle is 2, and the bottom is 1.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 708x519 and weights 49KB.
Arm Sweep
The purpose of sweeping the arm forward or backward is mostly to sweep the driveshafts forward or backward. When the driveshafts are angled it changes how the car reacts on and off power. (This goes for the rear driveshafts as well.)
When the driveshafts are swept forwards, the stub axles are being twisted down toward the ground, pushing down on the tires and lifting the front of the chassis. This can be helpful in really bumpy sections to keep the front up and not dig in. It will also create more weight transfer to the front during braking which will increase your off-power steering.
When the driveshafts are swept backwards, the stub axles are now being twisted up, lifting the tires and pushing the chassis down. We've found that the biggest benefit to sweeping the arms back is jump landing. With the arms back, the car kind of "sucks" itself to the ground. It settles much faster and allows you to get on the throttle immediately. During breaking and off throttle the chassis will stay a little flatter front to back and either feel "pushy" or more controlled into the corner.
You can adjust the rear sweep by changing the wheelbase.
It's possible to have toe in on the rear and have the axles swept backwards (not on our car, I'm just making a generalization), but it doesn't handle well. It will squat really hard on acceleration and the nose will dip under braking. If any of you have ever driven a Revo with the long wheelbase rear arms you know what I'm talking about
10-30-2013 | 02:12 PM
#9694
Just a side note to those Tekno users that enjoy Apple products as well. In the latest Apple software versions you should notice that Tekno Setup sheets and instructions display properly now. Enjoy!
10-30-2013 | 03:17 PM
#9695
10-30-2013 | 03:48 PM
#9698
