Tekno SCT410 Thread
**Missed all the other right answers for some reason, but here is another one**
There are 3 holes on the cap.
1) The small hole at the very top where the standoff passes through.
2) The emulsion hole that takes a screw and a o-ring after drilling
3) The bleeder hole on the side of the cap.
To build a non vented shock you need to drill #3 only and user a bladder.
To build a vented shock you need to drill #1 & #3 and use a bladder.
To build an emulsion shock you need to drill #2 no bladder required.
You can drill all three and still build vented. You can drill 2 and 3 and still build non vented and emulsion. Once you drill #1 you've got a vented only shock cap.
There are 3 holes on the cap.
1) The small hole at the very top where the standoff passes through.
2) The emulsion hole that takes a screw and a o-ring after drilling
3) The bleeder hole on the side of the cap.
To build a non vented shock you need to drill #3 only and user a bladder.
To build a vented shock you need to drill #1 & #3 and use a bladder.
To build an emulsion shock you need to drill #2 no bladder required.
You can drill all three and still build vented. You can drill 2 and 3 and still build non vented and emulsion. Once you drill #1 you've got a vented only shock cap.
Question fellas. Anyone who's gotten rid of the dreaded nose diving issue, are you still running the 4 front/4 rear uptravel limiters on the shock shafts? Running the RC God setup from a while ago with 2 differences: 1, using 8x1.3 pistons in the front also (simply cuz that's what I had), and 2, emulsion shocks all around.
Absolutely LOVE how the truck corners, accelerates, and brakes. Jumps very well on the smaller jumps, but seems to jump very inconsistent on a couple of the larger jumps. These 2 jumps do have a sweet spot and it jumps great if I hit it. However, if I hit it even the slightest off of this mark, the truck often nosedives so violently that it's as if I ran over a land mine
. Try keeping throttle steady or squeezing it as hard as I can, but once her ass decides that it's going over, that's all she wrote. Read a few pages back someone runs Tekno black fronts and Tekno green rears with 8x1.3 pistons and helped their nosediving. Sound like a good direction to go, or should I try something else.
Thanks gents.
Absolutely LOVE how the truck corners, accelerates, and brakes. Jumps very well on the smaller jumps, but seems to jump very inconsistent on a couple of the larger jumps. These 2 jumps do have a sweet spot and it jumps great if I hit it. However, if I hit it even the slightest off of this mark, the truck often nosedives so violently that it's as if I ran over a land mine
. Try keeping throttle steady or squeezing it as hard as I can, but once her ass decides that it's going over, that's all she wrote. Read a few pages back someone runs Tekno black fronts and Tekno green rears with 8x1.3 pistons and helped their nosediving. Sound like a good direction to go, or should I try something else.Thanks gents.
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Posts: 67
Would a 12t be better? Considering my personal track and bashing spots are grass I need extra torque. I ran too high pinion on my old motor and over heated it. Id rather gear too low than to ruin my motor.
Gearing to low will ruin a motor just the same. The 4300 has tons of torque and the 16 might be right for bashing and tall grass. I run a 17 or 18 for racing depending on track layout. Just remeber that any big motor on 2s is going to have a hard time in grass. Your batteries are going to take a beating.
Wierd with the nose dive issue, cause I'm running the RCgod setup as well, and still to this day (since back in May) and never had nose dive issues. I'm also running just standard shock build with 0 rebound. I'm running the 8x1.3 pistons all around as well and the battery still in stock position.
Gearing to low will ruin a motor just the same. The 4300 has tons of torque and the 16 might be right for bashing and tall grass. I run a 17 or 18 for racing depending on track layout. Just remeber that any big motor on 2s is going to have a hard time in grass. Your batteries are going to take a beating.
I have the exact same set up, battery and electronics minus the servo(i run savox 1256) and i have the braided sleeve as well, really cleans up the look. I run the JC Ford F250 body too and love it, I cut out all read vents but in front i only cut out the 2 vents above the front wheel wells not the center one or the holes near windshield and it flys great. The tekin system with a 16t is great for almost any track I have run all med outdoor. Is it 4600kv?
Are you using 45wt front and 35wt rear with bladers and stock springs? Do you vent the caps or are they sealed? I just made up some pistons which are same pack as the 8x1.3 pistons and will try stock springs with 40 F and 30 R, bladers and no vent in caps. 20% rebound
F - HB D8 Grey (4.1) 32.5 Losi oil, 8x1.3 pistons, 101 Droop, stock swaybar
R - Losi Green (3.1) 30 Losi oil, 8x1.3 pistons, 120 Droop, 2.4 swaybar
Stock bladders and shock caps, no vents or venting and 0% rebound
When I get springs or for setups, mainly looking for the right spring rate regardless of MFG of the springs. I had the HB & Losi springs already in my toolbox. In all honesty though I like the way the Kyo springs feel better, don't seem to fade as quick.
ebay... just search for braided wire sleeve, this guy is where i get mine, hes a great seller, sent me another size for free and it was my mistake...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...X:eRTM:US:1123
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...X:eRTM:US:1123
from what I have seen, the Tekno seems to run similar top speed gearing cooler than the sc10 4x4. I am not sure if its the fact the sc10 4x4 uses a belt versus Tekno's shaft drive, etc. I did notice that the Tekno felt more free in the drivetrain than my ran in sc10 4x4 did brand new.



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