Team Associated B4.2 Thread
#9151
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
@Grasschopper check your PM's
I know I definitely pushed like a dump truck running closed cell fronts last year. Open Cell was half a second faster a lap easily. I sent you all the details in the PM, including the super secret stuff we won't tell Wildcat
I know I definitely pushed like a dump truck running closed cell fronts last year. Open Cell was half a second faster a lap easily. I sent you all the details in the PM, including the super secret stuff we won't tell Wildcat
#9152
Hmm...ok ticks me off a little that those tires were suggested to me then as for the most part I never race in those conditions. I'll be removing those tires and pitching them for sure. LOL. I hate wasting money...don't mind spending it if it is worthwhile, hate throwing it down the toilet. 

As for the open cell inserts in the front... A 3/4 rear is still prett much the racing standard. I rarely have closed cell in the fronts... Usually I'm running slicks if I do, CC in the front helps calm the steering.
#9157
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 88
From: Gray, TN
Where can I get 5-40 standoff to replace the ones that came with the shelf? The one on the other side snugged up just fine.
Edit: Also, I tried re-installing the original mounting screw (removed the shelf) and it will not seat either. According to Avid, it replaces the 5-40.
"Set has titanium machined 4mm tall standoffs with ¼" hex which replaces the 5-40 screw."
Edit: Also, I tried re-installing the original mounting screw (removed the shelf) and it will not seat either. According to Avid, it replaces the 5-40.
"Set has titanium machined 4mm tall standoffs with ¼" hex which replaces the 5-40 screw."
#9158
Where can I get 5-40 standoff to replace the ones that came with the shelf? The one on the other side snugged up just fine.
#9163
Hey guys, I'm having an issue with a chassis mounting hole being stripped as posted here. I can even push the Avid ESC shelf stand in and out by hand. I need some advice on this issue.
Thanks!
Thanks!
The website above has what I have used and currently have in my chassis now. Same location as you mentioned.
The Heli-Coil is what you want. Get the insert tool as well.
It is a lot easier than replacing the chassis.
A longer screw didn't work for me either...
#9164
http://www.acmeindustrial.com/insert_comparison.html
The website above has what I have used and currently have in my chassis now. Same location as you mentioned.
The Heli-Coil is what you want. Get the insert tool as well.
It is a lot easier than replacing the chassis.
A longer screw didn't work for me either...
The website above has what I have used and currently have in my chassis now. Same location as you mentioned.
The Heli-Coil is what you want. Get the insert tool as well.
It is a lot easier than replacing the chassis.
A longer screw didn't work for me either...
#9165
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 22,128
From: Fort Mill, SC / Charlotte
Well depends on what you're looking for. Rear axle has a non threaded section that is 3/16" (.1875"). The front and rear axles are 8-32 threaded, major dia of 8-32 thread is .1640", close fit for 8-32 thread is #18 drill .1695", free fit is #16 or .1770".
Do you guys race 2wd buggy in the Fort Mill area? I have relatives in the area and have thought about bringing a car with me when I go to see them but haven't bothered as the only track I found info on their website didn't make it clear they were still open and they didn't return my email.
Do you guys race 2wd buggy in the Fort Mill area? I have relatives in the area and have thought about bringing a car with me when I go to see them but haven't bothered as the only track I found info on their website didn't make it clear they were still open and they didn't return my email.



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