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Old 08-26-2013 | 02:57 PM
  #14041  
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If a 14t pinion is about right for the 4700, that's what he's running so something needs to change. I must be a speed junky if I'm thinking my 15t was too small but seemed like it to me and my temps were 135° after a 12 minute practice run with 15° esc timing (left settings from my Mugen)

I have only had a ESC shut itself off once and that was a wheel bearing that went bad. But if you go up in pinion your motor temps generally go up and a smaller pinion will drop temps till you go too far and are revving out the motor. Generalizations of course... but that's my experience.

Nanoverse had asked if 4 pole firmware was installed, maybe its as simple as that?
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Old 08-26-2013 | 03:29 PM
  #14042  
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I guess you can say the track was a little dusty...

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Old 08-26-2013 | 03:35 PM
  #14043  
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Anyone know the proper body post holes to drill on a jconcepts hi flow? It looks like the center ones in the front and the rear ones in the back but I cant nail it down exactly.
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Old 08-26-2013 | 03:41 PM
  #14044  
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Originally Posted by SMR 510RR
Anyone know the proper body post holes to drill on a jconcepts hi flow? It looks like the center ones in the front and the rear ones in the back but I cant nail it down exactly.
I didn't use any of their mounting holes. I just put some grease on the posts and just dropped it on how thought it should sit.
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Old 08-26-2013 | 03:59 PM
  #14045  
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Originally Posted by fq06
Thanx for the tips Cain & Slotmachine. I will try both directions.
Makes sense for thicker fluid though as tightening a ball diff will calm down the rear end entering a turn.
Basically I used the hudy guide for my info:

Rear

Thinner
• Increases cornering traction
• Increases steering into corner

Thicker
• Decreases rear traction while cornering
• Reduces wheelspin
Ran into traction issues in the corners when I was at the motodome race. couldn't find traction for the life of me and went 2K in the rear as a last resort from 3K, and really gained traction.

I think it works for me as I am also using all 4 uptravel o-rings so it helps fight against the whole diff whip issue.

Car became very effortless to drive on the very loose stuff. Ended up with too much traction when they wet the track so I would go to less rear toe if using same tires (M4 Blockades), or, M3 blockades I think would have done the trick to maintain same toe setting of 4.5 degrees versus 3.5 with the M4s.
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Old 08-26-2013 | 04:06 PM
  #14046  
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Originally Posted by JRapid
I guess you can say the track was a little dusty...

Sick pic man.. that should be Tekno's cover shot.. durability no matter the conditions
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Old 08-26-2013 | 04:39 PM
  #14047  
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Originally Posted by nanoverse
Do you have the 4-pole firmware?
This could have been the problem. The esc did not have the latest firmware in it. I just updated to the 4-pole firmware. I will get out in the next few days and run it with the 14t again and see what happens.

I have a NIB hobbywing sct pro sitting here. Would that be a better choice than the r10? The r10 has a higher amp rating at 160 vs 120. Opinions please?
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Old 08-26-2013 | 04:54 PM
  #14048  
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Originally Posted by RCManiac007
Also I was running very hot on the esc (it thermaled) but the motor was perfect. I run an Orion r10 pro 160A esc with the hobbywing 3656 4700kv motor with a 14t pinion. I assumed this esc would work well being a 160A. Was I wrong? Was I under geared?
Sounds under geared... I'm running the HW4700 & SCTPro 120 and geared with a 16T pinion. Temps this past weekend after 8min Amain were 140 Motor and 135 ESC and the ambient temp was 88* outside on a loose dusty track.
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Old 08-26-2013 | 04:56 PM
  #14049  
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Originally Posted by RCManiac007
This could have been the problem. The esc did not have the latest firmware in it. I just updated to the 4-pole firmware. I will get out in the next few days and run it with the 14t again and see what happens.

I have a NIB hobbywing sct pro sitting here. Would that be a better choice than the r10? The r10 has a higher amp rating at 160 vs 120. Opinions please?
Stick with the r10 you will be happy. Never ran it without the 4 pole firm ware. What motor are you running? I am running the HW 4700 with great success. Don't use much timing in the speedo and it will be perfect. And I run a 15 tooth. Im guessing your running the fan????
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Old 08-26-2013 | 05:10 PM
  #14050  
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Has anyone tried running mech brakes? I have a friend looking for info on the set up, as specific as you can offer....Thx.
Is any 1/8 brake system useable? DOes it matter?
Can the stock center diff mounts be used or something else needed?
Which outdrives can be /are needed? Obviously ones that are designed to put a rotor on, I know...but any particular mfr???
Am I missing anything???


Thank you.
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Old 08-26-2013 | 05:11 PM
  #14051  
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Default Update: Tires / Set up

You may recall I was having issues with my lock nuts coming off, especially in the rear on the drivers side. No matter what the wheels were catching on the hub causing the nut to loosen. Final solution: Proline F11 wheels. Exactly what the doctor ordered. They are stronger around the hex than the Losi however the actual wheel is more flimsy. Most importantly the webbing is much smaller and it doesn't catch on the hub. No worries....it no longer breaks.

Set up: My track is inconsistent, hard packed in places, dusty in others. Changed tires to Proline Tazers. Not sure there is a big difference for me from the Blockade. Both worked great.

Read the Huddy set up manual and wrote every adjustment down and based on my tracks I completely re-did my set up accordingly. Coincidently its set up very close to Matt Wolters set up. I do have big jumps and a whoop section. Shocks: 35wt Ft w/ Yellow springs...30wt. Rr w/ Orange springs. 8x1.4 pistons all around. Height: 27Ft. 26Rr. Droop: 104Ft. 122Rr. The truck fights like crazy to stay planted however it's still loose in the rear through turns under off power. Diff Fluid: 7f/5c/3r. I think the car will be dialed once I go to 2k rear. Camber: Pulled a little out from stock up front. Measurement to 21.5mm.

Car and my driving is getting smoother and faster. Forgot to mention the truck no longer bottoms out and jumps flat to nose up. Sometimes a little too nose up.
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Old 08-26-2013 | 05:32 PM
  #14052  
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Originally Posted by NitroOB4You
Has anyone tried running mech brakes? I have a friend looking for info on the set up, as specific as you can offer....Thx.
Is any 1/8 brake system useable? DOes it matter?
Can the stock center diff mounts be used or something else needed?
Which outdrives can be /are needed? Obviously ones that are designed to put a rotor on, I know...but any particular mfr???
Am I missing anything???


Thank you.
He would need the Tekno Brake Kit:
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5206x.../#!prettyPhoto

Last I read the consensus on here was that mech brakes on a SCT were not legal so I dont think many are using them.
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Old 08-26-2013 | 05:33 PM
  #14053  
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Originally Posted by JRapid
I didn't use any of their mounting holes. I just put some grease on the posts and just dropped it on how thought it should sit.
Yea I may have to do that, doesnt seem like any of them are perfect.
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Old 08-26-2013 | 05:41 PM
  #14054  
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Default End of Quebec rc series

Yesterday was the fourth and last race of the Québec rc series in Canada( 130 entries), my tekno sct410 and eb48 were really good and in truggy-E I ran a Tekno v4 Eight-T 2.0. Thanks to Tekno Rc for the easy to drive and reliable short course and buggy, hope to have a ET-48 as soon as possible. Here is a photo resume of my last race (in blue) and the season result (in brown).



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The track:



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Old 08-26-2013 | 06:21 PM
  #14055  
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Very cool track it looks fast and fun
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