Tekno SCT410 Thread
If a 14t pinion is about right for the 4700, that's what he's running so something needs to change. I must be a speed junky if I'm thinking my 15t was too small but seemed like it to me and my temps were 135° after a 12 minute practice run with 15° esc timing (left settings from my Mugen)
I have only had a ESC shut itself off once and that was a wheel bearing that went bad. But if you go up in pinion your motor temps generally go up and a smaller pinion will drop temps till you go too far and are revving out the motor. Generalizations of course... but that's my experience.
Nanoverse had asked if 4 pole firmware was installed, maybe its as simple as that?
I have only had a ESC shut itself off once and that was a wheel bearing that went bad. But if you go up in pinion your motor temps generally go up and a smaller pinion will drop temps till you go too far and are revving out the motor. Generalizations of course... but that's my experience.
Nanoverse had asked if 4 pole firmware was installed, maybe its as simple as that?
I didn't use any of their mounting holes. I just put some grease on the posts and just dropped it on how thought it should sit.
Rear
Thinner
• Increases cornering traction
• Increases steering into corner
Thicker
• Decreases rear traction while cornering
• Reduces wheelspin
Thinner
• Increases cornering traction
• Increases steering into corner
Thicker
• Decreases rear traction while cornering
• Reduces wheelspin
I think it works for me as I am also using all 4 uptravel o-rings so it helps fight against the whole diff whip issue.
Car became very effortless to drive on the very loose stuff. Ended up with too much traction when they wet the track so I would go to less rear toe if using same tires (M4 Blockades), or, M3 blockades I think would have done the trick to maintain same toe setting of 4.5 degrees versus 3.5 with the M4s.
This could have been the problem. The esc did not have the latest firmware in it. I just updated to the 4-pole firmware. I will get out in the next few days and run it with the 14t again and see what happens.
I have a NIB hobbywing sct pro sitting here. Would that be a better choice than the r10? The r10 has a higher amp rating at 160 vs 120. Opinions please?
I have a NIB hobbywing sct pro sitting here. Would that be a better choice than the r10? The r10 has a higher amp rating at 160 vs 120. Opinions please?
Sounds under geared... I'm running the HW4700 & SCTPro 120 and geared with a 16T pinion. Temps this past weekend after 8min Amain were 140 Motor and 135 ESC and the ambient temp was 88* outside on a loose dusty track.
Tech Master
iTrader: (52)
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,385
This could have been the problem. The esc did not have the latest firmware in it. I just updated to the 4-pole firmware. I will get out in the next few days and run it with the 14t again and see what happens.
I have a NIB hobbywing sct pro sitting here. Would that be a better choice than the r10? The r10 has a higher amp rating at 160 vs 120. Opinions please?
I have a NIB hobbywing sct pro sitting here. Would that be a better choice than the r10? The r10 has a higher amp rating at 160 vs 120. Opinions please?
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,042
Has anyone tried running mech brakes? I have a friend looking for info on the set up, as specific as you can offer....Thx.
Is any 1/8 brake system useable? DOes it matter?
Can the stock center diff mounts be used or something else needed?
Which outdrives can be /are needed? Obviously ones that are designed to put a rotor on, I know...but any particular mfr???
Am I missing anything???
Thank you.
Is any 1/8 brake system useable? DOes it matter?
Can the stock center diff mounts be used or something else needed?
Which outdrives can be /are needed? Obviously ones that are designed to put a rotor on, I know...but any particular mfr???
Am I missing anything???
Thank you.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 112
You may recall I was having issues with my lock nuts coming off, especially in the rear on the drivers side. No matter what the wheels were catching on the hub causing the nut to loosen. Final solution: Proline F11 wheels. Exactly what the doctor ordered. They are stronger around the hex than the Losi however the actual wheel is more flimsy. Most importantly the webbing is much smaller and it doesn't catch on the hub. No worries....it no longer breaks.
Set up: My track is inconsistent, hard packed in places, dusty in others. Changed tires to Proline Tazers. Not sure there is a big difference for me from the Blockade. Both worked great.
Read the Huddy set up manual and wrote every adjustment down and based on my tracks I completely re-did my set up accordingly. Coincidently its set up very close to Matt Wolters set up. I do have big jumps and a whoop section. Shocks: 35wt Ft w/ Yellow springs...30wt. Rr w/ Orange springs. 8x1.4 pistons all around. Height: 27Ft. 26Rr. Droop: 104Ft. 122Rr. The truck fights like crazy to stay planted however it's still loose in the rear through turns under off power. Diff Fluid: 7f/5c/3r. I think the car will be dialed once I go to 2k rear. Camber: Pulled a little out from stock up front. Measurement to 21.5mm.
Car and my driving is getting smoother and faster. Forgot to mention the truck no longer bottoms out and jumps flat to nose up. Sometimes a little too nose up.
Set up: My track is inconsistent, hard packed in places, dusty in others. Changed tires to Proline Tazers. Not sure there is a big difference for me from the Blockade. Both worked great.
Read the Huddy set up manual and wrote every adjustment down and based on my tracks I completely re-did my set up accordingly. Coincidently its set up very close to Matt Wolters set up. I do have big jumps and a whoop section. Shocks: 35wt Ft w/ Yellow springs...30wt. Rr w/ Orange springs. 8x1.4 pistons all around. Height: 27Ft. 26Rr. Droop: 104Ft. 122Rr. The truck fights like crazy to stay planted however it's still loose in the rear through turns under off power. Diff Fluid: 7f/5c/3r. I think the car will be dialed once I go to 2k rear. Camber: Pulled a little out from stock up front. Measurement to 21.5mm.
Car and my driving is getting smoother and faster. Forgot to mention the truck no longer bottoms out and jumps flat to nose up. Sometimes a little too nose up.
Has anyone tried running mech brakes? I have a friend looking for info on the set up, as specific as you can offer....Thx.
Is any 1/8 brake system useable? DOes it matter?
Can the stock center diff mounts be used or something else needed?
Which outdrives can be /are needed? Obviously ones that are designed to put a rotor on, I know...but any particular mfr???
Am I missing anything???
Thank you.
Is any 1/8 brake system useable? DOes it matter?
Can the stock center diff mounts be used or something else needed?
Which outdrives can be /are needed? Obviously ones that are designed to put a rotor on, I know...but any particular mfr???
Am I missing anything???
Thank you.
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5206x.../#!prettyPhoto
Last I read the consensus on here was that mech brakes on a SCT were not legal so I dont think many are using them.
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 93
Yesterday was the fourth and last race of the Québec rc series in Canada( 130 entries), my tekno sct410 and eb48 were really good and in truggy-E I ran a Tekno v4 Eight-T 2.0. Thanks to Tekno Rc for the easy to drive and reliable short course and buggy, hope to have a ET-48 as soon as possible. Here is a photo resume of my last race (in blue) and the season result (in brown).

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The track:

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The track:

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