What pistons are you running?

8 x 1.3
f 37.5
r32.5

Rear was getting loose once the track really dried out, but I think that was more a tire issue.

I had the same issue with my RC8.2e. No matter how many times I took the center diff apart, used Mugen diff gaskets, replace orings, used Mobil1 red syntheic grease (which IMO is the best on oring sealing) It still leaked. Thought it was from the out drives but hard to tell as the whole diff would be gunked up after a few runs. Ends up it was my spur gear. Thing was slightly warped. Replaced it and viola! No more leaks. So it could be the spur or the case like Bernard_Jr suggested.

The reason theyre so high is because they use ceramic balls in the bearings. There is no need to run a ceramic bearing in off road. They require constant maintanence; pulling seals, cleaning, re-oiling. Youd have to do this after every race weekend to keep them in good shape.

Cityblock's work pretty well for those track conditions. They're kind of my go-to tire for 4wd sct. They work pretty much anywhere.

Yes, these will work as well. Used some supersoft gridirons last sat on a track just like ^^he described and they worked pretty well. Only seemed to lose traction on right angle fast turns. Other than that, i traction rolled a couple times. They seem to have plenty of traction.

Get AVID bearings and be done with it. Only 26.00 and replace them when they get gritty.

So what's the final verdict on the DE Racing Borrego wheel (Losi SCTE offset) using the SCT410 stock plastic hexes?
If those are not preferred, what other wheel is a white dish? I was planning to run Borregos on both my SCT410 and EB48.
Thanks!

Jcon has a set of dish adapters for the Hazard wheels.

Well, I did it! I found a deal on a SCT410 and pulled the trigger. I've got a new Pro4 4600 and a new set of Gridirons coming for it too. Thanks for everyone answering my question so fast! Can't wait to start building it but I'm gonna take my time because I can still run my Loosi for a while. Any building advice?

Assuming you are pairing with an RX8, run your current limiter at 80, no timing, and gear it 15 or 16/44. This will cover all tracks you run on and temps should not be an issue.

Get the aluminum hexes, and aluminum servo horn from the start.

Hexes: http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5571a...aluminum-4pcs/

Horns:

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5253-...rn-25t-spline/

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5252-...rn-24t-spline/

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5251-...rn-23t-spline/

These upgrades make this truck pretty bullet proof.

Keep a spare spur gear and set of front A-Arms on hand to be safe as well as other common parts. I personally have not broken either of these, but it's always nice to keep some spares.

I would recommend taking a look at the +1.5 Hinge Pin Brace for the rear. If you are running outdoors with this truck, I would recommend it.

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5013b...nodized-1-5mm/

A lot of tuning with this truck is springs. At least from what I've seen. The first step setup wise I would look at doing generally is changing the rear stock springs to something a bit more firm.

If you can describe your racing surface, I'm sure many of us will be more than willing to help with a base setup for you.

I thought I had that same issue. What I found out after rebuilding it twice was this. I used black grease on the o-rings and the out drives. When pushing the out drive into the diff case some of the black grease would squeeze out between the bearing and the out drive. Even though I clean it off there was enough still there. Once the diff started to rotate at high speeds some of that black grease would still force it's way out and splatter all over the chassis appearing that the diff was leaking. Clean off the splatter and see if this continues. Mine did not and diffs are fine.

I have my tekno waiting to be built and was looking for a good base setup to start with at my track "sdrc", few people told me go with Matt dubs setup, any other input

I just mounted the 17mm Borrego's from my Mugen conversion truck on the Tekno. I had to dremel out some of the webbing to clear the Mugen arms so I can't say with an untouched wheel but there is tons of clearance on the Tekno where I was just clearing the Mugen arms.

I would say that the Borrego looks like it would fit with little to no dremeling. Even if you have to remove some webbing, it will still be left with more than any other wheel I've seen.

17mm hex seems to be the same thickness as the stock hex.

That's why I use the yellow seal ceramic bearings. Easier to just copy and paste:

"RC Car & Truck Ceramic Lightning Yellow Seal Bearing kits are specially designed for off-road or excessively dirty driving environments. These ABEC #1 bearings are maintenance free and lubed for life. The heavy duty rubber seal provides extra protection against the harshest elements; the ceramic ball provides lower friction and increased durability. Ceramic hybrids are lighter, have less rolling resistance and can sustain higher operating temperatures than traditional bearings. All Ceramic Lightning Yellow sealed bearings are packed in grease and will require a short break in period to loosen up."

+1 I had the same issue with the RC8.2 and the SCTE. My spur had small spots around the screw holes where the screws pushed the spur material out making the mounting spot un even. That was before I learned a tight seal didn't require the Hulk to tighten then screws on the diff.