Almost forgot about FTW Diamondback, went ahead and ordered it! Thank you! 👍

I take a tekno a sticker a put it over the tlr sticker on the grill .

I run the jc and tlr and haven't had a single probably with ether.

I was fighting the rear end bucking on jumps for the last few weeks. I solved it the last time I raced by going up in shock oil and springs until it went away. (front and rear) But, then I didn't like the way it drove on the rest of the track any more. I must admit that my poor 410 has been neglected as far as maintenance goes. ts been a looooong time since I gave it any attention. I finally did a complete tear down rebuild on the truck and found 3 wheel bearings that were almost completely seized, the front diff almost bone dry and the rear arms with so much dirt build up on the hinge pins that with the shocks off and the wheels still on, the arms wouldn't move under their own weight even with the weight of the wheel/tires. The arms actually squeaked when I moved them by hand. LOL. All of that and I still qualified 3 out of about 15 trucks. Ha!

Anyway. I think my problems were not related to the setup but were really a result of the damn car going to hell from not maintaining it. I hadnt touched it except to race it since May. Race it 3 weeks a month and then just put it in the garage until the next race. 4x4 is my also ran class. I really spend most of my rc energy and time working on my eb48.

Anyway, I havent gotten it on the track since I rebuilt it. Car is perfect now. Looks and feels just like a brand new car. I went back to my old setup since I suspect the disrepair was the culprit for my problems. I'll confirm sunday if I can figure out how to escape to the track this week. Anyone having issues I would recommend going thru the car and seeing if there is something causing the issue.

+1

Antimullet also suggested taking out a little anti squat. I'll give that a try too. I normally run Proline Suburbs or Ions in MC clay compound on my previous truck but they are mounted on 17mm DE SC wheels. All I had in 12mm hex were the JConcepts Pressure Points. But they are in gold clay compound.
Going with 3k on the rear diff should give me more traction cornering right?
I have learned to alter my driving with this truck. I guess I'm just used to being really aggressive like with my previous truck. Thanks for the help.

Wow this truck really reacts to setup changes if your setup is similar to mine with the exception of shock location and rear camber. You are having almost the exact opposite issue than I am with traction rolling instead of sliding out. Good to hear from someone who runs the Tekno @ WCRC. I usually make it to the track on Thursday nights for practice. When do you go there? Would to be cool to meet up and talk setup. I drive the gold and dark grey truck.

DoogieLee what's up! Nice to find another RC8.2e conversion guy giving this truck a whirl. I was a hold out on my conversion but realized that I was getting beat on the infield. Guys were killing me in the turns. Seemed everyone could turn tighter and get inside of me. You are right in that our old trucks were very predictable. I knew exactly what that truck would do in the sweeper, turns, jumps. The SCT410 turns on a dime and is nimble compared. I can feel that potential. I guess it'll take time behind the wheel to learn truck. And a little tuning of course. Thanks for your input.
BTW loving the RC8.2e as a buggy again (with the Tekno V4 kit).

Anyone running the Ferroni pistons? if yes what brand and weight shock oils and springs are you running with them. Also when installing do the large holes go up or down.

Thanks

Try taking out a few millimeters of droop , I found I was getting too much weight transfer to the front under braking and that was causing the rear end to come around ...

Yes, tekno drivers like the losi scte body and JC Ford 250, which is not marketed as Hiflow but does have cut outs and a nice back spoiler for downforce.

If I want to get the rear to rotate just a little bit to eliminate just a smidge of traction roll, what would be a good change to try with the rear camber link?

It's a great body. I like it more than the jconcepts hi-flow i was using before. It's my go-to body now.

Lower the link on the rear shock tower or shorten the link. Lowering the link will allow the chassis to roll less and will increase camber gain.

Thank you. Was hoping for a short, easy to understand answer and you delivered one .

strange, when I wanted to free up the rear end to eliminate traction roll I would raise the link on the tower?