4LikesTeam Associated B4.2 Thread
08-15-2013 | 08:12 PM
#8222
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
no shaveN tower's , been using the plastic RTR shock bushing just flip around so its close to the tower as possible .
08-15-2013 | 08:28 PM
#8223
When I used to have that it seemed to bend my shock so much that it made it sort of permanent where when I would compress it it would go in the shock body at an angle
08-15-2013 | 09:01 PM
#8224
08-15-2013 | 09:03 PM
#8225
Yes flipped on the backside. I was bummed because I wanted to run the A hubs and all there was was either the thick A hub or the AVID A/C and neither could be mounted on the back but now with the Associated A hub it clears fine
08-16-2013 | 12:17 AM
#8226
They are garbage dont waste your money. I use chapstick on the threads of my cups and they still pop when adjusting. I lost 3 ballcups racing saturday and 2 on wed. I lost one ballcup just overshooting the tripple and landing in the flat. I did take them off once or twice to adjust diff and inner washers stuff like that. They felt a lot tighter when first assembled but after removing them a couple times they felt really loose. The front ballcups never popped but I never removed them either.
On the plus side they do clearence the turn buckle enough to run hubs forward, no washer on shock eyelet and no rubbing.
I am working on the buggy tonight rebuilding them with trusty RPM's. I will deal with the shock rubbing a different way. I cant remember the last time I lost an RPM cup honestly.
On the plus side they do clearence the turn buckle enough to run hubs forward, no washer on shock eyelet and no rubbing.
I am working on the buggy tonight rebuilding them with trusty RPM's. I will deal with the shock rubbing a different way. I cant remember the last time I lost an RPM cup honestly.
08-16-2013 | 05:09 AM
#8227
Tech Addict
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 669
From: Ann Arbor, Michigan
!? We're 95'x55' & the nitro guys do nothing but whine & complain about it. I can only imagine what they say about your track
.
08-16-2013 | 05:24 AM
#8228
Tech Addict
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 669
From: Ann Arbor, Michigan
Tom, if you're breaking your rear tower, I'm assuming you're landing on your lid on the landing end of that triple. Not sure how adept you are at rotating your whip in the air via throttle and braking, but if not, that is a skill that is essential so you're best served to learn how to make adjustments in the air to avoid braking any more big components like the shock towers. Of course you can never assure 100% success but, practice makes perfect.
Another thing to keep in mind that you don't have to clear the triple in a single jump and perhaps you need to break it down to suit your ability and speed and work your way up to be able to clear it in one jump. I have a hard time with a really off pace double/triple combo at my local track but when I make it a point to take that section well, I take the last turn into the double wide at a reduced speed, and then power through the triple which I take batter than most. If I don't do this, I can lose a few seconds per lap.
The key is steady at the max speed you can handle. No need to go at all out blistering speeds the whole way around the track. Save those bursts of all out speed for wide open areas you can handle.
Another thing to keep in mind that you don't have to clear the triple in a single jump and perhaps you need to break it down to suit your ability and speed and work your way up to be able to clear it in one jump. I have a hard time with a really off pace double/triple combo at my local track but when I make it a point to take that section well, I take the last turn into the double wide at a reduced speed, and then power through the triple which I take batter than most. If I don't do this, I can lose a few seconds per lap.
The key is steady at the max speed you can handle. No need to go at all out blistering speeds the whole way around the track. Save those bursts of all out speed for wide open areas you can handle.
After the last race I spent some time driving the car with my best set-up and was able to clear the triple more consistent and land correctly.
08-16-2013 | 06:08 AM
#8229
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 431
No ball cup design is 'perfect' -- there always is a compromise among a variety of considerations. The RPM's are very good also -- but I have from time to time popped one off, especially on my B44.2.
08-16-2013 | 06:42 AM
#8230
hmm, I wonder they the avisd has issues? Is it taller above the holes? from the pictures, they look about the same.
08-16-2013 | 06:48 AM
#8231
08-16-2013 | 07:10 AM
#8232
Hello everyone, got some questions for you fine folks. I'll be returning from Afghanistan here in a few weeks and while here, I've been on an rc shopping spree to say the least. New servos, recievers, speedos, batteries, motors, and kits. Before I left, I sold almost all of my vehicles so that theydidnt sit and so I had an excuse to buy all this new stuff. I've spent some time reading this thread and getting an idea of what I need to do while I'm buildin my B4.2 but my question is about a setup. I wil be running on an outdoor 1/8 scale track thats got low traction during the day when its dry and some decent traction at night when its wet. Can anyone give me a good place to start with my buggy? Also, give me some input on anything you think is a mandatory fix or modification I should do while building the car. Thanks for your help and input in advance.
08-16-2013 | 07:23 AM
#8234
Ok so I've been going over my B4 and setting everything to the factory specs. The result of this is -2 deg camber in the back and....-5 deg in the front. I measured the camber links several times and am in the kit hole (inside at the tower with 2 washers and hole A at the caster block). Why do I have so much negative camber in the front using the factory setup?
08-16-2013 | 07:27 AM
#8235
Ok so I've been going over my B4 and setting everything to the factory specs. The result of this is -2 deg camber in the back and....-5 deg in the front. I measured the camber links several times and am in the kit hole (inside at the tower with 2 washers and hole A at the caster block). Why do I have so much negative camber in the front using the factory setup?