Why are you guys attempting to keep the rear dogbone centered or in the same position?
My thought is that it would just amplify wear in that one area.

Welcome to the Tekno family!!!

Well I got to run some more laps today with this buggy man it's so much fun to drive and super easy compared to my last buggy.

To the people having loose rear end are you maybe trying to over power the track? I dropped my current limiter down to 50% today and it was planted and hooked up. I still had plenty of punch to make the big jumps but it was so controlled.

As bottoming out I am running the stock springs with 45f and 40r and it feels fine to me.

I prefer the feel of softer springs and harder oil as it allows the buggy to find traction with a bit of roll.

Also run times improved as well got 20 mins out of a 5300mah

Like a lot of people I've been waiting for the new cars to come in but I've been reading this thread when I can.

My buddy was running his EB and was having an issue with the car coming around mid turn. He made adjustments throughout the day and everyone was an improvement.

I mentioned that some of you were adding weights to the rear of the car and gave him four 1/4 oz weights to add to his. He actually drilled holes in the weights and bolted two 1/4 oz weights to each of the mud guards. It looked really good and was very secure. Watching his car, it showed a lot of improvement from where he started.

Thanks for posting the tips guys. Keep it up!!

One thing to remember is your anti-squat setting. Many guys are removing all anti-squat to gain rear traction. The problem is that this also effects jump landing. When landing flat off a jump (as we sometimes must do) the anti-squat will help prevent bottoming. The trick is to apply throttle just before landing. Obviously this must be done carefully, and can be a little hard on the drive line, but it is highly effective at preventing rear chassis slap

Hi Andrew,

Can you describe your modification to your Hobbywing Xerun 150A ESC in some more detail? Can you provide some more high definition pictures?

I recently burnt my Hobbywing WP SC8 120A ESC and feel that I need a somewhat beefier ESC. But still an affordable one.

Thanks a lot in advance.

/Birger

My mesh seems to keep slipping, causing binding. I reset it and it comes back. It was fine during the day yesterday when I checked it, but when I got home it was binding again. I can't move the motor at all by hand but clearly its shifting during racing.

I only run the front brace, should I install just the rear as well, or just the center? Would this help or should I try the above parts? I've had the washers in my Amain cart for a while but have not ordered them yet.

Where did you get your reamer from?

I took the center diff temp reading again this weekend and it was in the 190°F range, this diff was recently built with 15K fluid and all new components including the bearings (7-10 runs on it tops). I noticed that my SCT-410 had a warm center diff but no where near as hot as the EB-48, is this normal to see such high temps from a Diff? I tend to believe that the front and rear diffs are getting just as hot. Looks like I'll rebuild it again and see what I can find or if this helps cool things down?

I am using turnigy reamers myself. They work well.

From what I recall he drilled a hole in the ESC on the side closest to the motor then routed the wires through that hole. without doing this, on my SP ESC which from what I understand is basically the same thing I had to trim my mudguards slightly to get the wires to flow over to that side towards the receiver box. His mod is very nice in that it protects the wires by doing it that way.

Really wish they would make a revision allowing plug-in wires so if you need a longer one, you can make the change and have it plug in from the top.

Being that the motor is so close to the center diff do you think you are just getting heat soak from the motor and then when you temp it is not a true indication of the internal temp of the diff? Just a thought

I don't think it is heat transfer as the plastic diff housing is too hot to even touch giving off 190°F+ readings - hotter than my motor is even running
(150-180°F). I'm running the plastic spur as well which should limit motor heat transfer to the diff and the outer part of the spur doesn't feel too hot. This is the 2nd diff that I've noticed this with and thought going up in in diff weight would help, my only real concern is destroying/melting the plastic diff housing from the heat. I disassembled the 1st one and the gears, pins and O'rings seem to be fine. It is possible that these temps are perfectly acceptable with the diffs in this car, I haven't been able to check the front or rear diffs housings due to there location, but the outdrives and center drive shafts are very hot to the touch. I haven't heard of many others who have noticed or reported temps this high and would like to know what an acceptable range is.

My center diff gets HOT too. I started running 30,000 and the temp. came down some and did not effect drive-ability.

FINALLY have an EB48 on its way to me. An awesome team Tekno guy set me up for as close to low the price($450) I paid initially and now I am full Tekno SC and Buggy. Cant wait to build!

Hopefully the new kit I was waiting on does not have some awesome new update that makes me wish I waited haha! Probably does but nothing $ cant fix I guess.

Tekno,

Would it be possible to edit your standard setup sheets to have blocks for the hd arms? Is Austin Blair going to post his setup sheet from the e-nats in PA?