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Old 08-01-2013 | 01:37 PM
  #1966  
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Originally Posted by Jstall7543
I plugged some bullets in backwards one time about 5 years ago when I bought my first tubed lipo, I was spacing out and plugged it in and put the body on and all for body clips and the original mamba max esc started bellowing smoke right when I slid the last clip on my tc5. I hated the feeling of ruining a esc. The battery was fine because the power wires melted off the esc really quick before I could get the body off. Ironically I gave the battery to my buddy 3 years later and he is still using it just about every weekend in his b4.1 even though its only performing at about 80% compared to 5 years ago. Once you mess up you will never do it again! Now I put a red shrink wrap on the positive lead and highlight the +- on the batteies with a silver sharpie.
im not sure if this ia good thing or not but i put two layers of tap around my battery's on both ends hopping this keeps my case from getting scratch up on the bottom. Does any one else use this method is it good or bad?
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Old 08-01-2013 | 01:41 PM
  #1967  
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you could just use chassis protector. Some people use the sc10 4x4 foam pad and line the bottom of the battery tray, you can do the same for the strap.
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Old 08-01-2013 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
you could just use chassis protector. Some people use the sc10 4x4 foam pad and line the bottom of the battery tray, you can do the same for the strap.
ok that sounds better than my tap thanks.
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Old 08-01-2013 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Jstall7543
I plugged some bullets in backwards one time about 5 years ago when I bought my first tubed lipo, I was spacing out and plugged it in and put the body on and all for body clips and the original mamba max esc started bellowing smoke right when I slid the last clip on my tc5. I hated the feeling of ruining a esc. The battery was fine because the power wires melted off the esc really quick before I could get the body off. Ironically I gave the battery to my buddy 3 years later and he is still using it just about every weekend in his b4.1 even though its only performing at about 80% compared to 5 years ago. Once you mess up you will never do it again! Now I put a red shrink wrap on the positive lead and highlight the +- on the batteies with a silver sharpie.
I did the same thing with a MMP rushing to the stand for the main.
+1 on red shapie on the pack and red shrink tube on the wire.

Or if possible, ESC not inline with the pack. Make your wire a length to where you can't possibly plug them in cross polarity. I would just about have to rip my ESC off its base to get the + wire to the - port.
All black wires, no markings, no worries.



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Old 08-01-2013 | 06:54 PM
  #1970  
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Default i got my battery

I got my second battery today.I would have to say i like the new box and the instruction it came with also. This time i got the roar approved 6500 i noticed this is a140burst rate the last one was a 120 burst rate. is this cause it a new design our cause it the roar appoved .i would like to add that i did check your guy volts and it was shipped like it was marked on the box and no puffing or anything bad at all.great work to get it here fast also since i ordered it on Monday for days later it arrives. great work smc. a happy custmer Robert let you workers know that too please.
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Old 08-01-2013 | 07:17 PM
  #1971  
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I received my 7200 inboard today. I topped off the charge on it and took it out for a rip. I immediately noticed an increase the top end and burst. I was even more surprised when I noticed I had the 12T pinion on when I thought all the speed was because I had a 14T installed.
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Old 08-01-2013 | 08:18 PM
  #1972  
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Below are a couple pics showing the discharge stats for a couple of the SMC 7200 race packs I received this week. This is the 3rd cycle on each. All charges and discharges done at 10 amps. A 5% cutoff rate on charge and a 3.4v cutoff on discharge. After this weekends races I will run the numbers again, along with a comparison of a newer Promatch IP 7200mah pack I have. If I get motivated I will even break out the laptop and Logview.

Charged:



Discharged:

Attached Thumbnails SMC LIPO BATTERY THREAD-smc_7200_charged.jpg   SMC LIPO BATTERY THREAD-smc_7200_discharged.jpg  
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Old 08-02-2013 | 02:48 AM
  #1973  
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I have read on some threads that the smc lips sucked really bad, and like 1 person would say they had no problems then 10 would say they sucked, and puffed quickly. But that thread was from 2010. I was wondering if smc has come out with new and improved lipos, that have nearly no problems. I really need cheep, good roar approved
Lipo batteries. Due to money problems i cant get named brand maxamps or protek batteries. Thanks for the help
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Old 08-02-2013 | 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by motorcross111
I have read on some threads that the smc lips sucked really bad, and like 1 person would say they had no problems then 10 would say they sucked, and puffed quickly. But that thread was from 2010. I was wondering if smc has come out with new and improved lipos, that have nearly no problems. I really need cheep, good roar approved
Lipo batteries. Due to money problems i cant get named brand maxamps or protek batteries. Thanks for the help
You will not have any problems with SMC lipos, there top notch! I don't know about in 2010, but most battery puffing these days is caused by the the end user abusing the packs. Charge your batterys within the reccomended rate, make sure your cut off is set on your speed control, and balance charge them.
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Old 08-02-2013 | 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Rhett McNair
You will not have any problems with SMC lipos, there top notch! I don't know about in 2010, but most battery puffing these days is caused by the the end user abusing the packs. Charge your batterys within the reccomended rate, make sure your cut off is set on your speed control, and balance charge them.
+1

The older SMC packs had some issues that I hear about too. The new packs are killer.
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Old 08-02-2013 | 05:48 AM
  #1976  
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I have seen 100 + $ packs puff, so that is a misused term to describe a battery. I have NO issues with my 4670 shorty that I am running. My only REAL issue, is I only have 1 for now!
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Old 08-02-2013 | 07:14 AM
  #1977  
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Danny has done the most testing in the industry on lipo's, including basically all the differant manufacturers (theres only a handful of them) so he says he uses the best manufacturer, so buying any other brand is going to be on par at best, but he sells them at the best price from his manufactrer, so buying anything else you'll get either a sub par pack or pay too much. SMC is basically the only stuff I buy that I can't get at my LHS and for good reason (I work at a hobby store so that means a lot, these pack are well worth me needing to put up with some flack from the higher ups) Theres a couple companies I have no problem pimping all day with nothing in return, and SMC is one of them.
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Old 08-02-2013 | 07:52 AM
  #1978  
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Originally Posted by fq06
I did the same thing with a MMP rushing to the stand for the main.
+1 on red shapie on the pack and red shrink tube on the wire.

Or if possible, ESC not inline with the pack. Make your wire a length to where you can't possibly plug them in cross polarity. I would just about have to rip my ESC off its base to get the + wire to the - port.
All black wires, no markings, no worries.



You can also leave the wires plugged in all raceday and charge with alligator clips on the base of the plugs.

Then you only have to plug in once per day. Less plug wear as well.
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Old 08-02-2013 | 07:55 AM
  #1979  
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I thought about doing that....but was unsure how the esc would like it. I think i saw cav doing it at the shoot out.
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Old 08-02-2013 | 08:03 AM
  #1980  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I thought about doing that....but was unsure how the esc would like it. I think i saw cav doing it at the shoot out.
The ESC wouldn't even know the difference (especially if it's turned off). 8.4v is 8.4v.

Some of the pro's don't even have connectors. Battery is permanently mounted and hardwired.
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