SMC LIPO BATTERY THREAD
#1966
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,595
From: Illinois
I plugged some bullets in backwards one time about 5 years ago when I bought my first tubed lipo, I was spacing out and plugged it in and put the body on and all for body clips and the original mamba max esc started bellowing smoke right when I slid the last clip on my tc5. I hated the feeling of ruining a esc. The battery was fine because the power wires melted off the esc really quick before I could get the body off. Ironically I gave the battery to my buddy 3 years later and he is still using it just about every weekend in his b4.1 even though its only performing at about 80% compared to 5 years ago. Once you mess up you will never do it again! Now I put a red shrink wrap on the positive lead and highlight the +- on the batteies with a silver sharpie.
#1969
I plugged some bullets in backwards one time about 5 years ago when I bought my first tubed lipo, I was spacing out and plugged it in and put the body on and all for body clips and the original mamba max esc started bellowing smoke right when I slid the last clip on my tc5. I hated the feeling of ruining a esc. The battery was fine because the power wires melted off the esc really quick before I could get the body off. Ironically I gave the battery to my buddy 3 years later and he is still using it just about every weekend in his b4.1 even though its only performing at about 80% compared to 5 years ago. Once you mess up you will never do it again! Now I put a red shrink wrap on the positive lead and highlight the +- on the batteies with a silver sharpie.
+1 on red shapie on the pack and red shrink tube on the wire.
Or if possible, ESC not inline with the pack. Make your wire a length to where you can't possibly plug them in cross polarity. I would just about have to rip my ESC off its base to get the + wire to the - port.
All black wires, no markings, no worries.

#1970
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,595
From: Illinois
I got my second battery today.I would have to say i like the new box and the instruction it came with also. This time i got the roar approved 6500 i noticed this is a140burst rate the last one was a 120 burst rate. is this cause it a new design our cause it the roar appoved .i would like to add that i did check your guy volts and it was shipped like it was marked on the box and no puffing or anything bad at all.great work to get it here fast also since i ordered it on Monday for days later it arrives. great work smc. a happy custmer Robert let you workers know that too please.
#1971
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 51
I received my 7200 inboard today. I topped off the charge on it and took it out for a rip. I immediately noticed an increase the top end and burst. I was even more surprised when I noticed I had the 12T pinion on when I thought all the speed was because I had a 14T installed.
#1972
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,588
Below are a couple pics showing the discharge stats for a couple of the SMC 7200 race packs I received this week. This is the 3rd cycle on each. All charges and discharges done at 10 amps. A 5% cutoff rate on charge and a 3.4v cutoff on discharge. After this weekends races I will run the numbers again, along with a comparison of a newer Promatch IP 7200mah pack I have. If I get motivated I will even break out the laptop and Logview. 
Charged:

Discharged:

Charged:

Discharged:
#1973
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 4
I have read on some threads that the smc lips sucked really bad, and like 1 person would say they had no problems then 10 would say they sucked, and puffed quickly. But that thread was from 2010. I was wondering if smc has come out with new and improved lipos, that have nearly no problems. I really need cheep, good roar approved
Lipo batteries. Due to money problems i cant get named brand maxamps or protek batteries. Thanks for the help
Lipo batteries. Due to money problems i cant get named brand maxamps or protek batteries. Thanks for the help
#1974
Tech Addict
iTrader: (27)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 657
From: Dallas, Texas
I have read on some threads that the smc lips sucked really bad, and like 1 person would say they had no problems then 10 would say they sucked, and puffed quickly. But that thread was from 2010. I was wondering if smc has come out with new and improved lipos, that have nearly no problems. I really need cheep, good roar approved
Lipo batteries. Due to money problems i cant get named brand maxamps or protek batteries. Thanks for the help
Lipo batteries. Due to money problems i cant get named brand maxamps or protek batteries. Thanks for the help
#1975
You will not have any problems with SMC lipos, there top notch! I don't know about in 2010, but most battery puffing these days is caused by the the end user abusing the packs. Charge your batterys within the reccomended rate, make sure your cut off is set on your speed control, and balance charge them.
The older SMC packs had some issues that I hear about too. The new packs are killer.
#1977
Danny has done the most testing in the industry on lipo's, including basically all the differant manufacturers (theres only a handful of them) so he says he uses the best manufacturer, so buying any other brand is going to be on par at best, but he sells them at the best price from his manufactrer, so buying anything else you'll get either a sub par pack or pay too much. SMC is basically the only stuff I buy that I can't get at my LHS and for good reason (I work at a hobby store so that means a lot, these pack are well worth me needing to put up with some flack from the higher ups) Theres a couple companies I have no problem pimping all day with nothing in return, and SMC is one of them.
#1978
I did the same thing with a MMP rushing to the stand for the main.
+1 on red shapie on the pack and red shrink tube on the wire.
Or if possible, ESC not inline with the pack. Make your wire a length to where you can't possibly plug them in cross polarity. I would just about have to rip my ESC off its base to get the + wire to the - port.
All black wires, no markings, no worries.


+1 on red shapie on the pack and red shrink tube on the wire.
Or if possible, ESC not inline with the pack. Make your wire a length to where you can't possibly plug them in cross polarity. I would just about have to rip my ESC off its base to get the + wire to the - port.
All black wires, no markings, no worries.


Then you only have to plug in once per day. Less plug wear as well.
#1980
Some of the pro's don't even have connectors. Battery is permanently mounted and hardwired.



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