T-bone bumpers are ....well....not good. I had to shave mine down to get it to fit properly (the bevel on the trailing edge was slanted the wrong way to get it to sit flush with the chassis) and I snapped it where the screws hold it to the bottom of the chassis (about an inch away from where I had to shave it....so not a result of the shaving) after probably 5 or 6 race days and a few practice days. Several of the other guys at the track laughed at me and told me they could have saved me the money because they have tried them and broke them as well.

It came with the truck I bought here so it was no skin off my back as they have sent me a new one 2 times. I just was wondering if I was the only one trashing them that quick. Any ideas on the nose diving?

My V1 tbone ran for about 6 months before it broke right at the front edge of the chassis. Took a pic, emailed tbone and a replacement was in the mail a couple days later.
Put the stock one back on in the mean time and it ran till I got the replacement and then I sold the truck to Ranger411 a few months later.
Awesome... 4 for the price of one so far, not a bad price as it turns out

All of the tbone bumper braces need to be custom fit, even the one for my Mugen truck so I think that's just how they do it.

Ranger, I didn't have the rear end kicking up on me, may just be an odd jump or possibly need to play with a little thicker shock fluid in the back. But then you get into tuning for one small section of the track issue. Where did you end up going on shock flies? I ran thicker than just about everyone suggests, did you go lower than what I ran and liked it better?

I actually run it high like you did. I had that one day that it was 40 degrees that it blew up in my face, but the weather has been hot enough that 35 wt in the back was fine. I broke the stock bumper you sent too so perhaps I should figure out what I am doing to make it nose so much. Its butter on corners, straights and flatter jumps, struggles on anything on a heavier incline. Been getting second or third place in the A lately, but I want to take it to the next level to win.

Ranger


next time if possible place the truck 2 or 3 ft from the jump and hit the jump ...

If your truck sails over properly, its a sign ...

Shows your approaching the jump to fast and still have some throttle on before you blip over the jump .

Having some throttle on before the blip locks the suspension and will allow the trucks rear to slap easy and then nose dive .

Cherry,

That makes sense. The placement of that jump versus where I stand I think is fooling me. Will adjust accordingly, Thanks

Yeah, if anything it flew nose up for me if it wasn't neutral, most of the time perfect. The C-Diff made mid air corrections much easier for when it did want to stick its nose up in the air.

WC, good thought.
Best jump technique is to run up to the jump and get a hair more neutral with the throttle to let the suspension extend. Much better height and angle out of the same carry speed as you are letting the suspension unload on the face. Mugen driver taught me that years ago, thanx... forgot your name.

Sometimes a new layout will throw a jump in that makes me go back to that discipline and not be lazy.

You know what funny is since i got the 4x4 i ,put the work in it to get it to run so good. I let the girlfriend drive it in a race and i have not been able to drive it since. She traded the 2wd for the 4x4. She also told me that im not getting it back unless i get this 2wd to drive like the 4x4. I guess it a good thing now i got a back up for the kids car in the 2wd class.

Cherry, I know you and I have often not seen eye-to-eye, but this piece of advice makes TOTAL sense, and is explained well, and I find it very valuable. Thank you!

06

When it comes to jumps ?

the drivers technique

is way more important then set-up..
Hard to convince some however..lol

we have a huge(27ft) triple with just three ft runup to clear.any suspension preload before the blip is just bad news.

Where you are planning to run the sc104x4 is where it shines. I would have no problem running it in that kind of setting. you may want to look into the lightweight setups as well that those like Shark are doing.

Last weekend I raced the SC10 4x4 Lite, and even though I didn't finish well overall I noticed something I had missed before. The SC10 4x4 Lite has amazing acceleration. Mostly due to the lighter weight, less mass and probably the cDiff. I noticed in the 2nd heat and Main I started behind a Tekno and Losi driver (both better drivers, with the Tekno driver winning the Main) and each time I passed both of them by the time we got to the second turn (starting grid, middle of the straight, leading into a 90 degree left, then 25 feet leading into another 90 degree turn). At the start I was able to get right on the 2nd driver (Losi), then going into the first turn I got inside of him and out accelerated him coming out, did the same to the 1st driver going into/out of the second turn. Now if I could only keep this up for the entire race.

Well I just got done with my tear-down, clean and re-build. I have to say with how hard I drive this truck, it is incredible how durable this thing really is.

Small problem, need some opinions.

6.5 pound truck, heavy with 16mm BB shocks. Truck is really good, and getting better each week. On a big 1/8th scale track, i use Bowfighters or Enduro-2's usually. I recently bought a 4700 KV Hobbywing 4 pole, and it rips, love the torque. The Problem is, i am thermalling the motor in about 7 mins. I will admit i gouge on it, love the HP, plus the track is loose.

Dual shorties set up. I am geared 13/62 do you think thats over geared? I did notice the Enduro-2 tires were alot bigger than the Bowfighters, this may be where i am getting the xtra heat.

Also, i had to run with 1/8th Ebiggies, not enough 4x4's, anyway i can get within about .8 to 1 second a lap off Ebuggies better laps. How close generally are 4x4s compared to Ebuggies on a big outdoor track?

I may end up doing some dremel work and installing some fans on the motor side if all else fails, love that HP of the 4700 HB !

Thanks, Krom.

Krom

Removing the spur gear cover will allow the motor to breath better and will reduce your temperatures 20 to 30 degrees..

Installing a fan on top of the motor will help as well reducing your temp's even more ...