Rw modding and engine rebuilding
#276
This is not a criticism so please don't bash me for spewing my own inner thoughts out loud. 
I would be really surprised if the bearing holds up for long. It's got to take an awful lot of punishment. I really hope it does though, something like that could be a real game changer.
Then again, if it's cheap enough and easy to replace, hell just get it to last a full day of racing. If it can last for 2 hours of running and only costs $5 and a few minutes to replace, I'd do it in a heartbeat.

I would be really surprised if the bearing holds up for long. It's got to take an awful lot of punishment. I really hope it does though, something like that could be a real game changer.
Then again, if it's cheap enough and easy to replace, hell just get it to last a full day of racing. If it can last for 2 hours of running and only costs $5 and a few minutes to replace, I'd do it in a heartbeat.
#279
The first attempt with these bearings (there are 2 in there) was not good, it did not last long. There is alot of force there and the only bearings I could find are just $1 ones. I did take the seals off for fuel to get in there. I had to turn down the crank pin to 4mm, of course I stroked it a little
Then bored out the rod. If I could find something that would work it would be awesome as you could take a worn crank and rod and make it new again. It did seem to rev better.
Latest project, machining blocks for Buku caps. I am also going to sell the caps, I am looking at about $15.00 to machine the block if sent bare or can be combined with a rebuild for $10.00.
Then bored out the rod. If I could find something that would work it would be awesome as you could take a worn crank and rod and make it new again. It did seem to rev better.Latest project, machining blocks for Buku caps. I am also going to sell the caps, I am looking at about $15.00 to machine the block if sent bare or can be combined with a rebuild for $10.00.



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