I'm having a hard time building these shocks with no rebound. Is it possible? Also could some one explain the easiest way because the directions definitely don't cover it. Thanks

Hey guys is anyone have problems with stripping the spur gear? I'm on my 5th one and its meshed correctly... I have other cars that are 3yrs or old and never stripped a gear...

I would not say impossible, but I was not successful in getting zero rebound either.... I eventually gave up, so I would say it is more unlikely than likely to get zero rebound.

I ran 40 in the front, 30 in the back, and 5/7/3 for the diffs. Good place to start.

I had a little bit of rebound in my shocks as well...

Whats the best steering servo for the 8ight e 3.0?

I use Jr 9100 S or T

The overall quality of the new shocks are awesome. I guess I'll be the first to say "please come out with shock caps with the screw in them ".Makes setting the shocks so much easier.

8th scale shock have historically always had bladders. I don't even know if anyone has built them without, meaning emulsion. For indoor circumstances, it may be worth trying. As tracks get bumpy, bladders serve to push the tire into some of the holes to give you more traction and truer tracking.

...and upon building the new shocks for the first time, they are kind of like WOW. As good or better than any K shocks I've built.

I see. No tips on how to get zero rebound or is it not necessary.

With a bladder just try and get the least possible.

i just stripped my first after running 4 batteries through it, i had this problem on my 2.0 but i was lucky to get one race meet with that car so soon changed to a metal spur.

every gear i have stripped happened when i land hard off a jump and it will brake a tooth off then it goes from there. i will be buying a metal spur gear as i did with my last buggy

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawwolf View Post
I had read earlier in this thread that the plastic motor brace will cause the motor to flex and then you will shred the spur. If you run with out it the motor will only flex with the motor mount thus keeping the pinion and spur moving together.

I agree, I have found also that the motor mount needs locktite and recomend checking for loose screws every time your in the pits. The chasi flexes alot and anything under the motor( like the rear brace) just hits the motor like a hammer on big landings.
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I'm using this one...

http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...odID=SPMSS6090

Agreed, ditch the brace. The problem is also partially caused by the use of Losi's cheap plastic spacer that goes under the motor mount. I ditched that as well (had to grind the chassis for spur clearance) and I have never had a problem with the motor mount coming loose from the chassis. I don't even use locktite anymore. An alternative would be to build a spacer out of something that isn't so soft like aluminum or carbon. Without the spacer, a 42mm motor sits very close to the chassis. With the 2.0 and 3.0 chassis, the flex may cause the motor to hit the chassis and you will have the same problem as the brace caused.