Team Associated B4.2 Thread
#5296
I only have one weekend of racing on it...So it's a double edge sword for me. I can keep at it (devaluing the car every time I run it) or start looking for a trade... I only plan on running at this track so the cars ability to perform outside or on dirt means nothing to me.

#5298
Hi,
Take a look at this set-up. Would have been one of the last time the AE team in the UK ran a b4.x on carpet.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...ce20110116.pdf
A mid motor car will (should) be quicker. But you should be able to get an acceptable set-up on a B4.2
What I would suggest is to add weight to settle the car down.
Heavy front bulkhead, 30g stops the nose of the car lifting.
Slightly stiffer spring on the front, closer to 4lbs.
Worth trying a weight plate under the servo as well.
Rear
On the rear run as smaller a spur as you can, get the weight of the motor in as much as you can.
Move the shock to the middle hole, outside hole on tower. Car will generate enough side bite, no need for the shock to be on inner hole.
You can add weight to the rear as well.
For the tyres, are you trimming them? Trim rows off, front and rear to settle the car down an to stop it grip rolling.
You can also glue the side walls to settle the car down.
MiCk B. :-)
Take a look at this set-up. Would have been one of the last time the AE team in the UK ran a b4.x on carpet.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...ce20110116.pdf
A mid motor car will (should) be quicker. But you should be able to get an acceptable set-up on a B4.2
What I would suggest is to add weight to settle the car down.
Heavy front bulkhead, 30g stops the nose of the car lifting.
Slightly stiffer spring on the front, closer to 4lbs.
Worth trying a weight plate under the servo as well.
Rear
On the rear run as smaller a spur as you can, get the weight of the motor in as much as you can.
Move the shock to the middle hole, outside hole on tower. Car will generate enough side bite, no need for the shock to be on inner hole.
You can add weight to the rear as well.
For the tyres, are you trimming them? Trim rows off, front and rear to settle the car down an to stop it grip rolling.
You can also glue the side walls to settle the car down.
MiCk B. :-)
FRONT
- Postion 1 on the tower For shocks
- Outer position on a-arm
- Postion 1 on tower for ball stud
- 1.5 mm washer under ball stud
- -1 camber
- Position A on carrier
- 24mm ride height
- Steering rack Front
- 2mm washers under steering knuckle ball stud
- 30 degree caster block
- AE 12mm White Springs
- AE Flat 1.6mm pistons
- ae 40W oil
- three limiters
REAR
- Position 1 on shock tower for shocks
- Position 1 on tower for ball stud
- .5mm washer under ball stud, chassis brace ground flat
- Medium wheelbase
- -1 degrees camber
- 2.5 degrees total toe-in
- outer shock position on a-arm (tried inner but it made the rear pogo worse)
- Black antiroll bar (tried with and without all night)
- 2 degrees antisquat
- Associated 12mm Gray
- AE Flat 2 x 1.6mm pistons
- ae 35w oil
- 1 limiter
-24mm ride height
.
- Postion 1 on the tower For shocks
- Outer position on a-arm
- Postion 1 on tower for ball stud
- 1.5 mm washer under ball stud
- -1 camber
- Position A on carrier
- 24mm ride height
- Steering rack Front
- 2mm washers under steering knuckle ball stud
- 30 degree caster block
- AE 12mm White Springs
- AE Flat 1.6mm pistons
- ae 40W oil
- three limiters
REAR
- Position 1 on shock tower for shocks
- Position 1 on tower for ball stud
- .5mm washer under ball stud, chassis brace ground flat
- Medium wheelbase
- -1 degrees camber
- 2.5 degrees total toe-in
- outer shock position on a-arm (tried inner but it made the rear pogo worse)
- Black antiroll bar (tried with and without all night)
- 2 degrees antisquat
- Associated 12mm Gray
- AE Flat 2 x 1.6mm pistons
- ae 35w oil
- 1 limiter
-24mm ride height
.
#5299
#5303
#5306
Tech Regular
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 308
From: Albany, Or
Who has run inline electronics and what's your opinion?
#5307
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 470
From: iowa
can some people give me ideas on what i can do to get the rear of my buggy to stop dumping over the rear end on power and in a 90* and a slight sweeper as far as set up
fr :1.6, 30 wt ,grn spring 1a w/1mm b/s spacer in on tower out on arm
rr: 1.6 27.5 oil w/wht springs in on tower and arm, hubs all the way back A hub un shaved brace no b/s spacers . speedo in the rear of the batt tray rec on the right and 12g on the left 24 mm ride height , running mod. thnx for the help
fr :1.6, 30 wt ,grn spring 1a w/1mm b/s spacer in on tower out on arm
rr: 1.6 27.5 oil w/wht springs in on tower and arm, hubs all the way back A hub un shaved brace no b/s spacers . speedo in the rear of the batt tray rec on the right and 12g on the left 24 mm ride height , running mod. thnx for the help
#5308
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,412
I'll keep that in mind thanks. All of my setup is experimental. Probably why my car has been running like crap lately lol. I can get it to work but I am constantly making changes. Haven't really found the consistent setup. I chassis tune way more then I should.
#5309
I have ran mine like this since I bought the car. I ran my esc in the battery tray till yesterday when I talked to Ryan Cavalieri at the Portland race about issues getting the rear of my car to transition in corners with my front more balanced. He suggested raising it up on a mount across the bottom of the shock tower saying it would be magical in the difference it made. After raising it the car has ran faster and more consistent than I have ever been able to drive it with the esc in the battery tray. I noticed the rear of the car now follows the front way better around corners with a lot more speed.
#5310
Running inline was nice/clean, but now that I switched my ESC over, I really like the balance and rotation/corner speed I get.
I'm running 35/32.5 with 3x1.4 tapered pistons.
Last edited by skrichter; 05-20-2013 at 01:44 PM.



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