I just compressed the spring and that make a huge difference. I can actually get the nut on now without feeling like I am forcing it.

Thanks for your help!

Another stupid question were dose the ballast weight go?

Sandwiched between the toe block and the diff case.

between the rear arm mount and the transmission--it fits in between with the dot on the ballast facing foward, directly under the rear u brace.

Is it a must run?

Are you running stock or mod?

Running mod. Also should I run full lipo or shorty. I'm running a wet clay track that I would say high bit.

I run it, and think its a must

I would run it and i would run the full stick pack. I find that the full stick pack settles the car down a lot more with a full pack compared to the shorty.

Had a good night of racing. After 3 weeks of racing outdoors, I was about to toss the b4 in the trash. I was at an indoor track tonight and it was on rails. Heck my tires were ghost pins and it was still on rails....if i stayed in the groove. 8 minutes into the 10 main main, my poor 17.5 just could not make it over a double, I case it, hit a pipe and broke an arm. But thats fine, I was more than happy that the buggy was working well. I am thinking my tires might suck for outdoor racing. Time to try some new rubber. Because when I had traction indoors, it was great. but pipes and the b4 do not get along at all.

Thought I would give inline a try. Setting up the electronics was kind of a pain. I soldered it 3 different times before settling on this. I think it turned out pretty good.

How do you like it??

Almost have mine ready. I bought it used and it already had a shaved u brace. I screwed up and didnt look at the ebay auction close enough and got B hub towers istead of C. Will the extra height chage things that much to where I should go buy some C's?

Hi,

Can you post your full set-up.
Should be able to help you out.

Usually for high bite tracks carpet / astro turf etc. Mid motor is the way to go.

You can covert the B4 to a mid motor, C4 from CML in the UK or the X-Factory option.

MiCk B. :-)

FRONT

- Postion 1 on the tower For shocks
- Outer position on a-arm
- Postion 1 on tower for ball stud
- 1.5 mm washer under ball stud
- -1 camber
- Position A on carrier
- 24mm ride height
- Steering rack Front
- 2mm washers under steering knuckle ball stud
- 30 degree caster block
- AE 12mm White Springs
- AE Flat 1.6mm pistons
- ae 40W oil
- three limiters



REAR
- Position 1 on shock tower for shocks
- Position 1 on tower for ball stud
- .5mm washer under ball stud, chassis brace ground flat
- Medium wheelbase
- -1 degrees camber
- 2.5 degrees total toe-in
- outer shock position on a-arm (tried inner but it made the rear pogo worse)
- Black antiroll bar (tried with and without all night)
- 2 degrees antisquat
- Associated 12mm Gray
- AE Flat 2 x 1.6mm pistons
- ae 35w oil
- 1 limiter
-24mm ride height

The car turns ok...but was getting outclassed in the rotation department by the Losi cars.
Bigger problem was any ride height under 24mm made the car jump funny. On one section with two shallow single-singles ... I could not carry any speed approaching them or the rear would flip over the front.This was killing my lap times as everyone else could pretty much floor it over that part of the track. I could not tell if the rear was bottoming out or not...but ride height helped it a bit. (Stiffer springs did not).
We are running on office carpet and with dboots tera's or shumi pins traction is insane.
I feel if I can get the car lower I might be able to pick up some corner speed...But this kills the cars ability to jump. Raising the car also induced traction roll.

I only have one weekend of racing on it...So it's a double edge sword for me. I can keep at it (devaluing the car every time I run it) or start looking for a trade... I only plan on running at this track so the cars ability to perform outside or on dirt means nothing to me.
Thanks for the help..I would assume conditions at my track are semi close to most tracks over there.

.