This should be required viewing of any new or young driver, explaining the difference and why you don't need to get 10ft of air and divebomb over every jump.

Thank you for showing us in slow motion why he is just so much better than everyone else, especially at WCRC!!

Thanks Anthony, great video again...

Geez, you act like he steered the car in the air with pinpoint precision and nailed every apex perfectly... Oh wait, he did. That's impressive to say the least. Nice vid!

he did quite a bit of in the air steering. He needs to long jump, flat land the jumps more though.

That was a fun and challenging layout.

Update. I emailed AE this morning and was promptly replied to about 2 hours later. For those of you that say you contact them and they ignore you, sure sure. Since i cant find my receipt (my own fault) they can not warranty the motor, but asked that I send it in and they will see what they can do. The funny part is, i sent them a picture and they said make sure you attrach a note stating what is wrong with the motor. Lol, if you look at my zip lock baggy of exploded motor parts and need to ask what is wrong, then LOL. Anyway, when/if they fix/replace or do nothing for me, I will post an update. I like to pat the companies on the back that help out the average joe racer. If they do nothing, then that is fine, as I expect nothing. It will cost me about $2.50 in shipping to find out what they can do.

I keep forgetting to email them, my .2 came with 2 left-sided hubs. I had to put a sloppy old one on there, but I'll be installing set screws soon.

I contacted them last year about a missing part in my sc10 4x4, they asked for a copy of my receipt and sent me what I needed. This is the first time I have had to deal with them with no receipt. But in all honesty, if you have no receipt, you should expect nothing.

With electronics when something goes wrong most of the time you should not expect much.

And I don't. Anyway, so the new thing is shimming out the rear hexes .030 huh. I would have tried that this weekend, but next week for sure. Well if my motor arrives by then, lol.

Side note: after the motor exploded. I noticed some dust inside the motor. Normally I race on "cleaner" tracks, but I tried out a new track and it was DUSTY. Back in the early 90's we used to cover the motors to keep the dirt and metal in the dirt out of the motors. One of the popular things was "vet wrap". It is a stretchy self sticking wrap. Some motors like the viper seal off pretty good and some like the reedy and tekin like the air vents. So, after the exploding rotor, I am wondering if I should protect the motor from debris. I know that putting any sort of cover on the motor will increase the heat. Since I am not the guy to run my motor at a 150 deg for more power and tend to run it at 100-105, I am wondering how well it would work and what trade offs I would have to deal with. Obviously I would need to watch my temps.

what size set screws are these?? if you had a part number that would be great. i have my due-bro tap set just need set screws.

I used the same ones that are in pinions. 4-40. In fact I stole them from my old pinions, lol.

I was going to use the spares from my CVDs, as I just use the ring. I believe they're 4-40s.