SC10 4x4 Thread
Nice track cut there @5:37 in your bright pink SC10 4x4, George.
http://tweakstation.wordpress.com/20...p-and-results/
http://tweakstation.wordpress.com/20...p-and-results/
sure ignore someone that actually raced it on outdoor 8th scale low bite tracks. And listen to the guy who hasnt, lol. Or you can look at the resle value of the truck. anything that is good and popular will hold its value. What does that say about the $100-$150 FT sc10 4x4 with upgrades being sold here? The sc10 4x4 has its place. It is very nice indoors. It does not require a massive motor and will likely not puff your packs. It is by far the cheapest to buy used and run. Some people even still use 540 2 pole motors in them, because they can. The heavier tekno and scte will work your packs and electronics harder. I own an sc10, b4 and a t4, so its not like i hate AE. In fact, I am a big supporter of theirs, but I wont lie or delude myself in to believeing the sc4x4 is better than it is. I spent 6 months trying to make mine work outdoors and yet my b4 consistently pulled laps that were 8-9 seconds faster. When a 4x4 on an 8th scale track cant keep up with a b4, that is not a real selling point.
So I bought the SC10 4wd. I made a good choice because I can get parts if I break something parts are in stock at my local track. And I hear the truck is pretty durable. That means less time working on my ride and just racing.
The Tekno and Losi I have doubts with because it's hard to get parts for them. The Tekno especailly is hard to get parts for it. The losi is hard on bearings. So you will be replacing bearings more often on that truck.
I chose the Associated because there's already some people here running the truck and I know it's a good racer. I plan on racing mine some outdoor
some indoor. Mostly indoor thou because how well it does indoor.
I cant wait to put my first race on it. Im getting the Copperhead ordered next week. And after I get my batteries I'll be racing it.
Can use a trolls advise .....
or
Use www.rc10.com.....
Tip: The ae site is recommended by Ae & me ......
A million posts won't make anyone believe you as much as just bringing good advise and being fun ....
or
Use www.rc10.com.....
Tip: The ae site is recommended by Ae & me ......

A million posts won't make anyone believe you as much as just bringing good advise and being fun ....
I think the 540 sized VX4 would be awesome, but wouldn't buy the 550 sized one - just because of weight. It's only an ounce more, but it's not in a spot where you want it.
Im in the same boat as you. I wanted a 4wd Corr truck to race with.
So I bought the SC10 4wd. I made a good choice because I can get parts if I break something parts are in stock at my local track. And I hear the truck is pretty durable. That means less time working on my ride and just racing.
The Tekno and Losi I have doubts with because it's hard to get parts for them. The Tekno especailly is hard to get parts for it. The losi is hard on bearings. So you will be replacing bearings more often on that truck.
I chose the Associated because there's already some people here running the truck and I know it's a good racer. I plan on racing mine some outdoor
some indoor. Mostly indoor thou because how well it does indoor.
I cant wait to put my first race on it. Im getting the Copperhead ordered next week. And after I get my batteries I'll be racing it.
So I bought the SC10 4wd. I made a good choice because I can get parts if I break something parts are in stock at my local track. And I hear the truck is pretty durable. That means less time working on my ride and just racing.
The Tekno and Losi I have doubts with because it's hard to get parts for them. The Tekno especailly is hard to get parts for it. The losi is hard on bearings. So you will be replacing bearings more often on that truck.
I chose the Associated because there's already some people here running the truck and I know it's a good racer. I plan on racing mine some outdoor
some indoor. Mostly indoor thou because how well it does indoor.
I cant wait to put my first race on it. Im getting the Copperhead ordered next week. And after I get my batteries I'll be racing it.

I didn't bother to go look at his truck this year but I could swear he ran a stick pack last year but I'm sure he has switched to a saddle with the new truck.
jeff
I'm with you , my truck has been way fun , fast & very durable .....
Hope racing gets better for you....
Started building a brand Factory Team Edition tonight...
This kit has the new improved gear cases with steel bushings and the new .5 shim ....
Tip's for building the diff's
* Do not use the .2 shim that is used on the out drive shaft .
If you try to use this shim ?
Will be almost impossible to slide the sun gear pin onto the out drive shaft inside the gear case .
* do not fill the case completely with oil, only 1/2 to 2/3 full ..
Allows for the oil to expand and not leak inside the gear box
* Do not torque the gear case screws to tight , only firm & keep it even to avoid warping the gear case ...
* use a hand drill to break in the diff's before installation...
I'm with you , my truck has been way fun , fast & very durable .....
Hope racing gets better for you....
Started building a brand Factory Team Edition tonight...
This kit has the new improved gear cases with steel bushings and the new .5 shim ....

Tip's for building the diff's
* Do not use the .2 shim that is used on the out drive shaft .
If you try to use this shim ?
Will be almost impossible to slide the sun gear pin onto the out drive shaft inside the gear case .
* do not fill the case completely with oil, only 1/2 to 2/3 full ..
Allows for the oil to expand and not leak inside the gear box
* Do not torque the gear case screws to tight , only firm & keep it even to avoid warping the gear case ...
* use a hand drill to break in the diff's before installation...
Max is a great guy and was very impressive with his SC10 again this year. It was cool to share the stand with him.
I didn't bother to go look at his truck this year but I could swear he ran a stick pack last year but I'm sure he has switched to a saddle with the new truck.
I didn't bother to go look at his truck this year but I could swear he ran a stick pack last year but I'm sure he has switched to a saddle with the new truck.
Sounds like you had great time racing , good work....
you can get the shims by calling or email AE. They will send them out to you.
As for the new diffs with steel bushing inserts, you will want to go to your LHS and buy the part as it has the same part number as the previous version. You will want to examine it and see the change as if you order online, you may get old stock.
As for the 4 pad VTS slipper, basically its a modification where an additional slipper pad and associated washer are used instead of the stock 3.
Interesting stuff considering some of the people now swearing by it prior to AE making their version of a clutch basket setup felt the stock 2 pad setup was fine ...
As for the new diffs with steel bushing inserts, you will want to go to your LHS and buy the part as it has the same part number as the previous version. You will want to examine it and see the change as if you order online, you may get old stock.
As for the 4 pad VTS slipper, basically its a modification where an additional slipper pad and associated washer are used instead of the stock 3.
Interesting stuff considering some of the people now swearing by it prior to AE making their version of a clutch basket setup felt the stock 2 pad setup was fine ...
When you purchase the diff's ?
Check to see if they have the black steel bushing , the older part had brass bushings and does not include the new .5 shim ...
Quad pad VTS set-up performs great , last longer and needs cleaning & adjustment less often ....
triple pad VTS works well also ...



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