Hideeho
I'm still fairly new to the b44, but I'm running rs pro, lrp x12 8.5t. I'm at blinky on the esc & max (4dot) on the can (I don't like the feel of the rs pro on boost). I'm geared 22/81. My track is mid size (17-18 sec laps), indoors, low-mid grip, red clay. After an 8min main I'm coming off 140*-150* on the can & 120*-130* (2 LEDs) on the esc.

The other day I actually ran my new SMC saddles to cut off (3.2v/cell) just to see what it would do. I got 16 minutes & came off @ 182* on the can & 150* (5 dots) on the esc. Now I need to drop a tooth, drop the cut off to 3.1v, & convince everyone to run a 15 minute main

ROTFLMAO we really need longer mains...

I can get +20 with Reedy 5200 60C, Orion Vortex, 7.5. Reedy Sonic, 20 on the can and default on except for I took all the drag brake out the ESC. Temps 140/145 running the fan ESC is 98.
Gearing 22/81

Reedy is the coolest running and most efficient motors I have ran. My hand falls asleep in practice I run so long.

What TP..?

Its the rings that ware on mine, not the balls. I don't have any trouble 2-3 rebuilds with and Carbide. Are you saying the rings last longer or the balls?

rings don't really wear ,they stay smooth as long as the diff has not slipped.

If the diff slips using carbide ? The balls flat spot and ruin the rings along with.

If the diff slips using ceramic , the balls scores the rings.
The balls will stay smooth & round and can still be used again.


Reason ceramic lasts longer is because they super hard and never wear.

Set the slipper so it slips & not locked up will save all.

problem with ceramic balls is they have less bite on the ring. Requiring a tighter diff to avoid slipping. Carbide can be run looser allowing a better handling car with less slippage.

After that post I know now why I didn't have any luck. I probably never tightened it enough.

Not really how tight you adjust either , both are adjusted to the same tightness.

You have to break in the rings and create the valley the balls ride deep and smooth..

The groove in the rings is where all the grip comes from.
Requires a little technique to make . Some roll the diff by hand & then when in the car break them in some more & readjust.


Carbide balls may grip a little more when first assembled.
But they still flat spot if the diff slips.


See this happen all the time because the rings were not quite broken in using the softer balls.
BTW Takes a bit more effort to do break in with carbide due to their softness.

Also after the big slip ?

Both rings & carbide balls will need repla$ement to repair ....

The ceramic would only need replacing the rings which saves the racer money.
My main point here..

Personally think both types feel & perform the same ..
The real difference is ceramic diff's last longer & and pay for them selves over & over each rebuild.

Rewarding the racer with a smooth long lasting diff.

The ring worn in diff rings is THE PRIMARY reason a diff becomes inconsistent. The grooves get deeper, even if they are extremely smooth, and the diff operation is still very smooth. The effect is the diff is still smooth, but it takes more effort to get it turning in different directions, which makes the car less consistent in the corners.

This is DIFF STICTION, much like shock o-rings grabbing on a shaft. This condition is WORN OUT and needs to be serviced by replacing or resurfacing the rings--even if the operation is still smooth. When the rings wear grooves, even smooth ones, the ball is more affected by stiction because of the increased surface area the ball and ring contact each other with.

Here's the thing on ceramic vs carbide -- ceramic balls do NOT grip the rings like carbide. They just don't. That is a principal design quality of silicone nitrite ceramic balls. They provide far less friction. That's why they put them in ball bearings! In order to run the "tighter" and "very tight" settings that make this car great on many surfaces, you need some friction in there.

The bottom line is this: if you want to run a tight diff, you run carbide. Else you're going to be fighting trying to get the diff tight enough without seriously torquing the bejesus out of the spring and risking snapping a diff bolt, and then it will eventually slip. If you don't want to run tight diffs, ceramics last a very long time are a good option. KNOW YOUR OPTIONS.

I speak from years of experience on this exact carbide vs ceramic game. I've tried them all, many brands... some very exotic and mundane balls. My opinion from testing is this: Ceramics are fine on the REAR of 2wd and 4wd. Heck, I used to run them, I would run them again, but they are FAR too slippery for truck (T4/SC10) rear diffs and B44 front diffs.

Ceramics in the rear of my truck eventually made for a smooth diff that slips and no tightening it down will keep it from slipping, even so tight that it doesn't work right due to stiction.

Ceramics in the front of my 4wd resulted in a diff that, while it didn't slip, I simply could not get it tight enough in general. It took me a long time to figure out that it was the ceramic balls that did this to me. I was trying new springs, bolts, etc... went back to carbide, BAM, diff would stay tighter.

Rear of the 4wd or 2wd, either work fine. I don't run much tighter than standard in the rears of 2/4wd. Eventually the lube vanishes and they start to feel funny and squeak because they stay smooth so long, but that's a nice problem to have because it means you got a lot of good usage out of them before new rings and lube are needed.

Mine generally don't. The rings will get trashed if they slip, but I've barked the bejesus out of carbide balls, went back to the pits and re-sanded my rings, and the whole diff was butter smooth once again. You can definitely flat spot anything, and NON-carbide bare steel balls (like $2 losi balls) are definitely one slip and flat, but I rarely flat spot carbide balls unless something really bad happens like the bolt backs off due to a bad t-nut.

Transponder.

WC... I have found that as long as you have a peak window below the TP, you can place it on top of carbon. No peakaboo and yeah, you have possible missed laps. I have my TP placed on carbon on both my SC and buggy but there is some of the transponder over a cutout in the carbon on both. Just a little window will do ya.
Or like you said on the servo, that is high enough above the carbon that the loop can pick up the TP.

Yeah I was wondering what he is running.? Past 2 years I have ran the Mylaps. The AMB Large one I had issues with missing laps but it was near the end of the races. Weird. On one layout it was like lap 20 or 21 it would just skip me LOL Now days our loop is about 4-6'' below the dirt.

Raz , Your have amazing luck with carbide , never seen ayone get life out of um like you are.

Never been able to reuse over & over ,
not even once ......

How do you do it ?
I'm stumped ....


o6

Not sure bout drilling holes for , sure its works .

on top of the servo is getting her done ..

un4 ,using the standard AmB..

I was like you ,no problems till now ..

UN4, you were probably ahead by a couple laps anyway... you can afford a skip or two

WC, certainly no drilling, just where the carbon piece has an opening. Like on the B44 top plate, the center is machined out. On the steering top plate of my Mugen there's a few machined openings. My TP is over a factory opening.
Not to say the servo is wrong... it's working. Just saying you can have it on carbon as long as it can see though it.