Says the guy with no dust on the track. Every 4-5 days is ideal, any more than that and they get noticeably gritty.

Has anybody been playing with stiffer springs? Kyosho springs?

I've been running Blue/White with no ballast, and it's great at the moment.

top, are you running ceramics?

No ceramics. The AE diffs work GREAT bone stock. I can definitely tell when they're in need of maintenance though.

The diff on my 2WD lasts a good while, but the grease degrades pretty quickly. If I'm rushing, or just being lazy, I'll just pull the thrust and clean that.

I run my 4WD hard (boosted 6.5), so the diffs don't last nearly as long as the 2WD, but I can't complain with the way I drive the thing. Just take your time breaking them in when rebuilt, and set your slipper carefully.

Dust ?

Our tracks ? I run on more then just one BTW..
They all have dust just like any other ...


Guess you have exclusive on the stuff ?

Don't understand why you guys are being so resistant to ceramics , most of us, if not all use them here ...

Liked my ceramics for a few months now and got some b-fast rings for the next rebuild... but that may be a while since I can't find any front arms

We are out too , had a buddy begging me last night for my spares ...

Even if dust is a problem like Top explained ?

Ceramics would just prove to have even greater benefit over carbide just cus you will need to replace worn out carbide ,when the ceramics never wear and do not need replacement saving you $$$ each rebuild ..

Need some help on gearing. Just put together this B44 with a X12 7.5. Currently geared 19/81 running 15 boost on a Tekin RS Pro. Might turn boost off or get a 6.5. Motor temps about 160 after a 6 min main. This seems like its on the hot side but might be ok. What are you guys gearing your 7.5's? X12 7.5 KV is 4700. Thanks.

I find the ceramic diff and thrust balls wear out the rings faster, it would be nice if somebody offered tungsten carbide diff rings to go with ceramic diff balls!

The ceramic diff balls last longer than most guys even keep car kits...

yeah, I am kinda confused on the AE parts. The t4.2/scb/sc10.2 front arms and tower have been non existent since the release of the sc10brs. But the "updated" front and rear towers for the b4 appeared rather quick. I talked to AE about when they expect more of the MIA parts and they said no eta. They have a bunch on order, but they dont know when they will get any. Makes me sad that the b44.2 front arms are in the same boat.

Pinion size? Good size indoor high bite track (west coast to be exact) with an 8.5 motor and stick spur where should I be starting? I was thinking around 20???

LRP motors are known to run hot, especially the X12 series. They have pretty high can timing out of the box, so they don't respond to timing all that well. My recommendation is to put the ESC into "dual-mode," and go up a tooth at a time on the pinion until you get your temps/powerband where you want them.

I was running an Orion 7.5 with 5* on the endbell at 22 or 23/81.

edit: There are TONS of arms available in my neck of the woods. I have a nice stash for myself, but there's no shortage on the walls at my local shops.

I hit up this sale for my next 2 diff rebuilds. At that price I will stick with carbide.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130859612873...=p5197.c0.m619

I ran a 19 on my 6.5 on the Reedy layout but 18 on the supercross track as you need a little more grunt. I would think even for the supercross track you should be above a 20. Maybe someone that runs a 8.5 can chime in and drop a tooth from there for this layout.

So I have gone through a couple crown and pinion gears, I broke off a couple teeth ron the crown gear... I suspect it's from the slipper being to tight... Am I correct in my thinking? It hasn't happend since I loosened it... And how many shims are u guys useing?

Yes. I use the manual recommendation (6&3?).