Ummm...... doesn't everything....

Servo change on a durango vs 44, Drum roll please. AE wins. Changing batteries Ae wins performance AE wins support AE wins Parts cost AE wins shocks AE wins. Slipper AE wins.... And over all design AE again wins. Diffs Durango wins. 9 to 1 AE.....

yeah, I am not concerned with "reasonable" breaks. With my b4, I earn every break I have. As long as I am earning the breaks, then its fine. So like most 4x4 buggys front arms and towers are the main breaks? I recently went to a club race in phx. they had 4 4x4 buggies. A durango, a 44.1 and 2x 44.2's. In almost every heat/main only 1 car survived, lol. We had a local show up with a b44.x and he never completed a heat/main, lol. But I think to my self, surely it must be the drivers/mechanics. My last 4x4 was the xxx4 from the early 2000's. Its weak point was the front arms. they broke if you tapped a pipe, but the rest of the buggy was fine. Ok, thanks, I will keep my eye open for a deal on a b44.2 roller.

Sarcasm, thick and creamy.

I posted a few days ago asking what size threads the slipper shaft has to put a locknut on in place of the aluminum collar/o-ring adjuster. It's a 1/4" - 28 thread. I found a locknut at Ace Hardware that threads on perfectly but is rather crude looking. Might try McMaster to find a lower profile aluminum nut.

I think this will do the trick...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#93298A115

I have smacked just about everything at Westcoast for months and the front arms have been a champ.

My last time out they put a low flying triple an the left side of the track going away from you to the back straight and there's a rod iron fence a foot to the left edge of the track. Never have hit it till the new layout.
Took sticking the front end in between two of the vertical metal posts just right to snap the arm. Buggy still suspended in the fence, pulled it out and nothing but the arm was broke.

This buggy is unbelievably tough.

The 44 platform has always been very solid, and the 44.2 is only better. The 44.2, like the 44, can break front arms, but then again, that's pretty much any 1/10 scale with a fast enough motor. The front shock shafts don't tend to snap off at the eyelet like they did with the old small bore shocks, and the front and rear towers are way more durable.

The thing with the b44 platform is it is very sensitive to differential maintenance. I tend to rebuild my diffs every 4 outings at a minimum or else the car is just not as planted and smooth in corners. It's the life blood of how the car feels in my opinion.

Should not have to rebuild the diff's offen ....

Both diff's should out last the out drives & still be smooth if you use the Ae ceramic diff balls .

+ YouTube Video

saw Jasons review on another thread so now im wondering the weight of these preferably body and roller no tires or electronics weight and is the cf actually durable does it splinter or snap ive been looking at 4wd buggys for a while the dex410v3 has been stuck in my head but that cf makes me change my mind

I am running a 7.5 Reedy. I think the 6.5 will give you an advantage, more on short roll ups. I run at WCRC which is clay and have found with the right speed control settings and and pinion choice you can hang with the 6.5's. I already had this motor. Buying new, I'd probably get a 6.5 but if you have a 7.5 and your speedo allows boost etc. you will be fine. I have raced 4 times with my 44.2, 3rd, 2nd, 1st, and 2nd with a 7.5.

I find the car much more durable than expected. It will break the mentioned front arms mostly and towers if you earn it. Given that, on practice nights if you have a lot of 4x4 short course and 1/8th scales, you will have to be patient. 8 pound cars and carbon fiber don't mix well.

Maintenance wise, you will strip gears if you run your slipper too tight, and the diffs so far I have rebuilt one time with a good 30 to 40 packs in. I find testing them with tires off for a gritty feel gives you more feed back on the diffs. To test the gears, take your pinion off and spin the drive train. This car is awesome and worth any maintenance.

I learned something new for myself racing last night.

My ride had the TP install next to the receiver "on" the chassis..

Laps have been getting counted on two layouts and a completely different track as well . All seem good...

Then on our latest layout they installed the AmB wire under a jump that is about 2 1/2 ft tall..

All it took to stop counting my laps ....

Had to move the TP on top of the servo to fix..


Learned never install a TP on to graphite or a metal chassis unless you raise it above & away from the chassis .

Great review IMO. Totally agree on durability -- front arms break when you hit things you should not have hit. Funny thing is I ran the stock ball cups for 2 months with only one break and they only popped off when an arm would break. Put RPM's on and first day out a steering ball cup popped off in a small alteration with a SCT. So your mileage may vary ... my guess is that some batches of ball cups work, others clearly do not.

Zero issues for me popping dog bones with the stock setup.

Your tips and tricks are outstanding! Used your video on slipper setting and diff adjustment and it seemed to work great last night, before I was running slipper to tight but still managed to keep the gears and diffs intact for at least 2 months car felt real good last night and I never had to pull the trigger fully to win against 3 K1's and a 44.1.most of that was due to a comfortable leed and everyone chasing me and getting crazy I just ran slow and smooth. The 44.2 is so easy to drive smooth,although at times when I am behind I get nervous and a little crazy too.We have a very high bite blue grooved clay track so I tightened the diffs up a bit like you suggested.