anyone got a stock SCT410 chassis they want to get rid of. (no, i didn't taco mine lol)

If so, shoot me a message. hopefully the 3rd attempt at getting one is the charm.

Tekno confirmed in an email that the weight they have posted on their site (6.6lbs ~3000grams) is ready to hit the track RTR WITH body. This is impossible as just the weight stock without body is a little more than 3000grams.

For me, I will wait for SNR to see what they come out with for CF parts for this truck...If they come out with a CF chassis and towers, I will be all over that...Aluminum screws have never worked for me on anything. If you have a pretty good hit, your going to be wondering how to dig them out when they break off flush...

Mine weights 6.8lbs fully loaded with the body...or 3084grams

Watched your shock build video and enjoyed it. Your method makes a lot of sense.

For what it's worth you might want to try plumbers teflon tape to cover the threads instead of scotch tape. The stuff is slick and there is no way to nick the o-rings. As you pointed out though I doubt it's really necessary unless you're really anal.

I weighed mine last night and it came in at 3009g. That's with an eb48 chassis, Tekno alum screw kit and a bunch of titanium screws. Aluminum steering posts, any way a whole bunch of light weight parts. The 3009g was rtr with a 5000mah pack. I'm not going any lighter, it handles real good right now. The thing I'm working on right now is getting it balanced side to side and front to rear. I might play with some stick on weight, very little to get it perfectly balanced. One I can change to go lighter if needed is the battery. At 3009g I using a 5000mah 50c pack it weighs 305g. I have a 4100mah proteck shorty that weighs 237g. I can make a indoor 6 min main with the short pack but it's so much lighter it throws it way out of balance. The short pack brings the total down to 2942g. At that weight it's harder for me to drive. Don't know if it's the lower weight or being so far out of balance, probably a little of both. IMO the sweet spot for this truck is right at 3000g, maybe a hair more. That's for indoor racing, I think I'll put the stock chassis back on when the outdoor season starts for a little extra weight down low (I do pay attention Cain and I totally agree). I wanted to try it with the light setup first so I have solid info to go by.

Thanks I like the plumbers tape idea and I have some. If I feel the need to do it again that's what I will use, great idea....

here is a question, to balance out the weight of the receiver box but not using an actual servo, where is the best play to add weight?

Looking at the average setup's i say right behind the battery tray.

I have two of them, one weights 6lbs 3.2oz (a lot light weight parts and modding) and the other one weights 6lbs 7oz (just a little light weight stuff).

I marked up the spacers with paint marker then sanded flat just to make sure no burs. I put a few drops of oil on my finger tips then coat each spacer and o rings. When putting the shaft threw i also put shock oil on that. Just to make sure that i don't tear or make a flat spot on o rings.

double post my bad

looks like there is some dirt runnin series I may try attending mid april. So hope you guys don't mind if I pick your brains for info!

I actually built mine the same way as UN4racing did, except I use green slime on the threads and shaft B4 I put the o rings on.

Is it ok to sand both sides of the spacers?

In the video UN4RACING says to sand off the ridge using 800 grit sandpaper.

Flipping the spacer over and giving it a couple of wipes with 800 grit isn't going to hurt anything.