sc10pc

piston setup is stock i think it is the 6 hole and all the fast guys at my track run the light blue springs all around.

TAMAK

iTrader: (29)

@SC10PC...Petit is a great place to read up. But be VERY careful with the factory guys setups.. For example, Jorns setups shows a modified rear hinge pins changing the kickup, but ALL the drivers were running that and some dont show that in the setups.. Also he was running AE rear hubs and CVD's.. But for shock set, etc. its a great place to start.

A shorty pack is a MUST for this car. And if you can get the Dimec chassis, it will make a world of difference as its easier to set the car up with the plastic chassis (more flex). Also Light blue is VERY soft in the rear. To get it to rotate, I would get a losi Pink on the rear or Durango Dark green. Where do you race?

Rob Phillips

iTrader: (6)

My current shock setup:
Front
1.3x4 piston Losi 32.5wt
TLR 22 Red Spring
Rear
1.3x4 piston Losi 27.5wt
TLR 22 Yellow Spring

*Note: I'm using the stock 1.3 x 6 pistons with two holes glued closed (CA'd the tip of a toothpick into place then cut flush) making it a 1.3 x 4 piston.

I think I need to be a little heavier on the front spring, but over all it feels pretty good.

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

Oh yeah. Ill have my latest update soon.

Rob Phillips

iTrader: (6)

sweet, you know where to send it

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

Here is my final setup used at cactus classic. I opted to stay rear motor.
I have the rear hinge pin holder mod where you sand off 2mm off the bottom.

I didn't race all my heats mainly in phx to visit friends and raced on the side, but car was handling very well with plenty of steering.


Setup Sheet is on my google docs Listed below
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0Ab...it?usp=sharing

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

petitrc link for setup

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...sic2013031517/

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

do you dremel off 2mm and still use the 3* block for 6* of antisquate overal, or just the 0* block for 3* overal?

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

I am going to be trying this mod on my local indoor clay. I am hoping with the weight of the shocks being more towards the back it will allow me to run my battery further forward gaining off power steering.

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

I updated my sheet on the google docs, I have a 0 block when I use the -2mm rear hinge pin holder.

Cornering seems to be more stable on high bite tracks, which cactus was and my local track is also.

P6

iTrader: (5)

Yes I was just gonna ask about this I have a 1.5 kick up 3 toe in rf if I shave 1mm off the RR block what would I have for kick up I'm looking to buying a lighter rf with less kick up the brass is making me use odd springs combinations to compensate for the weight in the rear and battery placment is never full forward its usually to much I can drop 16g off my rf by not using brass and another 10g under servo to get lighter overall

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

You would be right around 3, rcjunky can comment better on the actual kickup since he makes them and knows their exact measurements though.

And how to do it, I used a belt sander, mounted the rr block on the bottom of the chassis with 2 screw going through the chassis into the top of the rr block so the bottom part of the rr block is accessible to the sander. This provides better results and is a lot cleaner then trying to dremel it.

P6

iTrader: (5)

I was gonna go old school to make sure I don't over do it , block of wood and some sand paper to make sure its even

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

That would work just fine, just measure with your calipers ever few seconds and you should be good.

if you sand off too much you can always shim it up to get the right amount

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

So this makes a lrc block 2° kick up approximately. ? You could also shave the front and rear equally too.