I run the powerstrokes over the AE big bores. I run Avid springs on mine and have also replaced the stock pistons with M2C racing conical pistons. It makes the shocks amazing! You will also need to get the universal mounting kit from proline or shim them up yourself.

Here's some older shots I found before I put the avids on so you can see how stock will look. I used the traxxas upper spring retainers after I put on Avid springs too. They felt a bit more secure under the ride hight nuts, but fit fine without them as well.

Oops! It is actually 63 grams. I decided to cut that back to 42 grams, but may go back to the 63 grams. I put this at the rear of the battery tray and the vehicle did very well. I also have the esc in front of the weights, then the battery.

Anyone racing indoors w the gear diff setup...im tired of wasting ball diffs after a weekend of racing and need something more durable....this truck is tuff on ball diffs.....compared to my t4 and b4

We're always running the gear diff for the same reason. Inside and outside.

I prefer gear diffs as well.
Ball diffs are harder to tune but I know how to tune them.
I ran a gear diff in my SC10 practically most of the indoor season.
I just know gear diffs are even better outdoors on big 1/8th scale tracks.
But have ran the gear diffs indoors too.

I run gear diff on mine indoors. Prefer the ease of maintenance like you said

A Tip

I find racer's having issues with their ball diff's wearing are always running a 17.5 with a locked up slipper ...


A locked slipper will kill either diff's early ....

You should not have to rebuild the ball diff cept when the outdrives are worn out and even then the diff should still be smooth and perform well.
Use the Ae ceramic diff balls , they last forever.
Check & clean the slipper pads each race , adjust correctly.(Needs to slip )

See this all the time ( Locked slipper)....

I think you hit the nail on the head! When I disassembled the trans, the bearings are in fact larger- ID - than the -OD- of the outdrives.

What do y'all think, did this possibly damage any other gears or components?

Here's a video of how much slop there was in the trans/diff .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8pvC4qk2mU

Are u using diff oil or grease in the gear diffs?

[quote=RC Geezer;11940291]I think you hit the nail on the head! When I disassembled the trans, the bearings are in fact larger- ID - than the -OD- of the outdrives.

What do y'all think, did this possibly damage any other gears or components?

Here's a video of how much slop there was in the trans/diff .

Yup, that's what you've got. Someone sold you a truck with a mismatched gear case and diff. I wouldn't be too terribly annoyed at this point. It's an easy mistake for a new mechanic to make. So you have a choice to make at this point....switch the the larger outdrives or keep the diff you have and convert the gear case and bearings over to the diameter you have. I honestly have no idea which would be cheaper. If the vehicle was run for quite a while like that there might be quite a bit of dirt inside the gear box and the gears might be kinda toast anyway. The best thing to do at this point is take the tranny apart, clean everything up and inspect the gears themselves. Good luck, man. This is one of the risks we take when we buy used online like this, unfortunately.

Looking for some help on weight placement.
I run on a small indoor clay track. med traction and dusty
35x85

When I am looking at set ups most guys run 3 oz behind the battery, does that include the lipo weight ballast ? or additional ?
The A.E Lipo weight is 17G so that would only be .59 oz right ? Or is my middle school math failing me. LOL

Just looking for some feedback on weight placement. I like to run my full size lipo pack all the way forward for extra steering. Running a 10.5 so weight is not really a issue.

Thanks in advance!

I put the weights in first(42G,) then the ESC, followed by a full battery, 5k 50c. I am also using offset wheels, 4x4 in the rear. I am thinking of adding more weight to stop the rear end from breaking out so much.

How do you stop the lipo from hitting the ESC ?
Thanks again

I use Velcro between them.

Does anyone have a real way to set the slipper? If I run the car against my foot, should the slipper be a slippen?