The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread
#3436
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 96
I found it a real pain to cut the chassis protective sheet to the right shape and size once the kit was complete. I recommend the following alteration to the build sequence:
1. Proceed per the manual to the left-hand part of "Front End Build - Step 1". Install the front bulkhead.
2. Skip ahead to "Rear End Build - Step 1" and install the rear chassis plate.
3. Place the chassis on the chassis protective sheet. Orient it on the sheet so that one side of the chassis lines up with a long edge, and the end of the rear chassis plate is even with one end. (Part of the front bulkhead will overhang the other end of the protective sheet, and this is OK because its underside will be protected by the front bumper.)
4. Mark the protective sheet around the edges of the chassis/front bulkhead/rear chassis plate assembly.
5. Put the protective sheet aside, and resume the build at "Front End Build - Step 1" by installing the front transmission.
6. Enjoy the ease with which you apply the chassis protective sheet at the end of the build.
1. Proceed per the manual to the left-hand part of "Front End Build - Step 1". Install the front bulkhead.
2. Skip ahead to "Rear End Build - Step 1" and install the rear chassis plate.
3. Place the chassis on the chassis protective sheet. Orient it on the sheet so that one side of the chassis lines up with a long edge, and the end of the rear chassis plate is even with one end. (Part of the front bulkhead will overhang the other end of the protective sheet, and this is OK because its underside will be protected by the front bumper.)
4. Mark the protective sheet around the edges of the chassis/front bulkhead/rear chassis plate assembly.
5. Put the protective sheet aside, and resume the build at "Front End Build - Step 1" by installing the front transmission.
6. Enjoy the ease with which you apply the chassis protective sheet at the end of the build.
#3438
#3439
KevinRC I understand what you mean, but what if you need to reapply tape after a few months of running?
To make it a little easier, simply remove your shocks, undo the hinge pins for the arms, and trim away with knife.
To make it a little easier, simply remove your shocks, undo the hinge pins for the arms, and trim away with knife.
#3440
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,042
Long time racer, new to 4w Mod Bug. Grabbed me a 44.2 from the LHS this past Tues evening, got 'er all built up, ready for a large trophy race tomorrow. Ran a few laps of practice today. Had a few minor glitches, most notably two stock ball cups cracked. But all in all it felt real good, the short time I got to run today.
Also, would like to take a moment to thank UN4 for the vidz
I pretty much watched a vid, completed a step, watched the next...lol. I've built many RCs in my time, but even still, learned a lot from your work. 
Looking fwd to tomorrow. Can't come quick enough, even with the Day Light Savings
I should be able to get some vid focused on my ride in one of my quals, and will get the Main as well, though it won't necessarily follow me.
Also, would like to take a moment to thank UN4 for the vidz
I pretty much watched a vid, completed a step, watched the next...lol. I've built many RCs in my time, but even still, learned a lot from your work. 
Looking fwd to tomorrow. Can't come quick enough, even with the Day Light Savings
I should be able to get some vid focused on my ride in one of my quals, and will get the Main as well, though it won't necessarily follow me.
#3441
Long time racer, new to 4w Mod Bug. Grabbed me a 44.2 from the LHS this past Tues evening, got 'er all built up, ready for a large trophy race tomorrow. Ran a few laps of practice today. Had a few minor glitches, most notably two stock ball cups cracked. But all in all it felt real good, the short time I got to run today.
Also, would like to take a moment to thank UN4 for the vidz
I pretty much watched a vid, completed a step, watched the next...lol. I've built many RCs in my time, but even still, learned a lot from your work. 
Looking fwd to tomorrow. Can't come quick enough, even with the Day Light Savings
I should be able to get some vid focused on my ride in one of my quals, and will get the Main as well, though it won't necessarily follow me. 
Also, would like to take a moment to thank UN4 for the vidz
I pretty much watched a vid, completed a step, watched the next...lol. I've built many RCs in my time, but even still, learned a lot from your work. 
Looking fwd to tomorrow. Can't come quick enough, even with the Day Light Savings
I should be able to get some vid focused on my ride in one of my quals, and will get the Main as well, though it won't necessarily follow me. 
#3442
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,042
I screwed up that post. It was in fact, PT# 7230, as mentioned in UN4's Turnbuckle vid. I grabbed them and installed first thing this AM. I know we have some RPM cups, not sure if they work. Maybe I'll take a closer look tomorrow. I thought I saw some white ones somewhere, that are supposed to be better. Anyone with info or a link? Thx
#3443
CHASSIS PROTECTOR TIPS:
Pay special attention to your wires when trimming your chassis protector, especially if you leave your blade long.
For oversized skins: Clean the chassis well, and make sure there's no loose dirt on your arms. Warm the chassis and the protector with a blow dryer. Fold in half long ways and just lay it onto the centerline first then over your arms. Run your finger down the centerline of the chassis and cut the excess material outward to relieve lift or twisting from the arms. Use your camber guage and press down from the centerline outward slowly, making sure there are no bubbles. Just hack the big chunks off then trim clean.
On pre-cut protectors you can also spray a light mist of water with a tiny bit of soap and slide it around to properly fit. Then squeegee the water out from the center to the edges and blow dry to warm it. Let it cool to pull tight and dry. Let it sit for a day. I don't recommend that unless you have to though. Your screws might rust. It's more of an MX trick for graphics. When those suckers grab you're not moving them for nothin'.
Anyway, back to ball cups... stock ones are junk, replace with RPMs or Lunsford and forget about them. Easy peezy. You'll kick yourself if you don't throw the stockers away.
Pay special attention to your wires when trimming your chassis protector, especially if you leave your blade long.
For oversized skins: Clean the chassis well, and make sure there's no loose dirt on your arms. Warm the chassis and the protector with a blow dryer. Fold in half long ways and just lay it onto the centerline first then over your arms. Run your finger down the centerline of the chassis and cut the excess material outward to relieve lift or twisting from the arms. Use your camber guage and press down from the centerline outward slowly, making sure there are no bubbles. Just hack the big chunks off then trim clean.
On pre-cut protectors you can also spray a light mist of water with a tiny bit of soap and slide it around to properly fit. Then squeegee the water out from the center to the edges and blow dry to warm it. Let it cool to pull tight and dry. Let it sit for a day. I don't recommend that unless you have to though. Your screws might rust. It's more of an MX trick for graphics. When those suckers grab you're not moving them for nothin'.
Anyway, back to ball cups... stock ones are junk, replace with RPMs or Lunsford and forget about them. Easy peezy. You'll kick yourself if you don't throw the stockers away.
#3444
I screwed up that post. It was in fact, PT# 7230, as mentioned in UN4's Turnbuckle vid. I grabbed them and installed first thing this AM. I know we have some RPM cups, not sure if they work. Maybe I'll take a closer look tomorrow. I thought I saw some white ones somewhere, that are supposed to be better. Anyone with info or a link? Thx
#3445
Added a couple of vids this weekend.. Great way to on the fly remove tires. After he pulled them he trimmed some glue and insert debris off with scissors and re-glued them. Had I not seen him do it I would not have known they had been pulled and new inserts added...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1riFFSLnkF4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AAKghytVLo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1riFFSLnkF4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AAKghytVLo
#3446
Cost me a good qualifying time.
#3447
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 860
From: San Diego
On the ball cup issue. I heard from many racers to throw the AE ballcups away when I got my car, so I did in favor of rpm cups. Bad move, in 2 race days I broke 3 of the titanium FT turnbuckles since the cups did not give at all. I then spent the scratch on some lunsford punisher turnbuckles and cups, and haven't had an issue with turnbuckles or cups in the past 2 months. I highly suggest running the lunsford setup.
#3449
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 96
Once the chassis sheet is applied we're all in the same boat, no matter how we first attached the sheet, right?
To make it a little easier, simply remove your shocks, undo the hinge pins for the arms, and trim away with knife.
#3450
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (99)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 803
From: South Boston, VA
I just got done building my rig and noticed that on the left rear at close to full shock compression the shock stroke got hard. It appears the dog bone is bottoming out on the platic t-spacer in the out drive.
I feel I didn't make a mistake building it, I over looked the directions and the rig and nothing seems obvious.
Could someone please guide me on what might be wrong.
Thanks in Advance
I feel I didn't make a mistake building it, I over looked the directions and the rig and nothing seems obvious.
Could someone please guide me on what might be wrong.
Thanks in Advance




