i use it depending on the track size more on small tracks

No big deal. I was just going to put AE 37.5 front and AE 30 in the rear. Should that be the same wt?

Cain,

The bench drop test is only the starting point for choosing the right oils. At this point all I really know is that the frequency of the front and rear springs is balanced. Following Fred's method you now add light oils and take it to the track and adjust the oil weights according to the performance you observe on the track. I used 27.5 in the rear because it was the lightest oil I had and 30 in the front because I was running low on 27.5. It just so happens that this combination of oils feels great on the bench. I don't know if that was because the suspension was now balanced or because the oils are very close to being right. In either case the choice of oils was just luck.

I think the big advantage we have in owning a Tekno and using this method is that the stock set-up is already so good and that the truck responds very obviously when you do make a change.

I started this whole proceedure because the truck was jumping with the nose down and the chassis was bottoming out on landings. I found the Xray progressive springs by trial and error. They seemed to cure the nose down atitude over the jumps very well, but didn't do much for the chassis slap. They also created another problem. The track I run has a long back straight that ends in a left hand 180 sweeper. The back straight is very rough. Not big bumps or dips but more like potholes and small washouts in the clay. The front end felt great running down this straight at speed, the rear end not so much. The rear would get so loose that it would turn sideways half way down the straight if you didn't keep the speed down. Through the sweeper the front end felt solid and would hold a good line, but the rear end would be very loose and on the verge of turning sideways. The front end was hooked up so well that I was able to pour on the power and pull the truck around the curve. Faster in fact than I've ever been able to take that corner.

Obviously I needed to do something to get the rear end under control. I tried a number of different rear springs without much success and that's when RCGUY steered me to Fred's method.

Now I have to track test it to see how it performs.

Anyone who reads this should keep in mind that I am NOT an accomplished off-road tuner or driver. I've been racing RC cars for a long time, but I've only been involved in off-road since January. I make these posts more to get opinions and advice than to give them. You might be better off getting your advice from someone who knows a lot more than I do.

Your cameraman is an absolute riot, way too funny!!!

35/30 seemed a little thicker than stock. 32.5/27.5 might be even closer to stock but the 35/30 seems like a good place to start anyways.

Don't change spring rate (if its feels good in bumps and jumps) If not handling right in corners use ride height and camber links. Shocks and springs and pistons are tuned for bumps and jumps mostly. Everything else should be used camber links, roll centers maybe shock poisons and ride height all for corners .

I understand. I really don't think that I'm going to have too much trouble with the rest of the set-up because the changes that I made aren't very big. It's another thing that I like about Fred's method.Rather than to try and tune the whole car at once he addresses individual parts of the set-up. All I'm really trying to do is to get the shocks and springs to do their job correctly at a slightly higher spring rate. If I accomplish that the rest of the set-up should remain pretty good.

Thanks

What does changing the ackerman mounting position do? More steering moving it back and less forward?

I got a chance last night to run the hobbywing 4000kv last night and I'm still impressed that little motor a beast at first I thought it was lacking little punch but it was just punishing the tires I had to dial it back a little to get it hooked up after that had no problem's running with the 4600 tekins And I had a chance to run down a couple 2.0 losi I do have to say they looked pretty good on the track but I'm very happy with my tekno and wouldn't replace it with the 2.0.

Forward smooth's out steering
Back quickens initial steering

I've got the #350 that came with the kit. I also have AE 27.5, 30, 32.5, and 35. Which do you think is closer to stock?
Thanks

......
This disclaimer cracked me up....Cheers!

If you're going to use the kit 350 for the rear I'd go with the 32.5 in the front to start.

I will do that unless you recommend different

Thanks