how do the new arms work and shock tower? Are you running bigbores or v2 shocks.

Those are sweet pictures. Gives you a great perspective on the forces these cars suspension are under when you see the tires fold over that far.

it has big bores and all the .2 upgrades.

that was my first time driving it since i got it. i have not raced in a couple of months.
it seams to have more steering. compared to my last t4.1.
it has been almost a year siince i last ran stadium truck.
I should have let VR6CJ drive it. he is one of our better drivers at the track and could give better input.

Wish I wouldve. Next time. But plan on udating mine. I have the BB and everything but the arms and tower. Cant imangine more steering outta this truck. Mine has to much as it is.

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/7922/

Yep

I got a stock T4.1, going to upgrade it to lipo for 1st time. Got 2 lipos in mind from Venom, 2S 5000 20C or 2S 5000 60C. I have heard that a high C rating is good choice to run stock and lower C rating to run mod. Not planning on change the motor/esc yet, we run at my track open electric. What u guys think?

Didnt forget the big bores, dont feel the need for em. Truck drives fantastic with V2 shocks and avid springs with adapters or Ive also ran it with proline shocks with avid springs and M2C racing pistons in them. They are 12mm and require no mods to fit the springs.

As far as body my Bull Dog bodies fit just fine.

nvrmind pic to big

Looking for help on fitment sizing.

I have an RC10T4.1 which just broke the ball and cup for the rear. When this happened I lost the dogbone due to how much crap was on the ground and unable to locate it.

I am going to buy and replace, but I was wondering if anyone knew if the fitment would work for what I'm looking into.

Here are the specs I found on the stock driveshaft/dogbone


I am looking at one of these. Not sure on the Diameter though. Cant find it.

HSP RC Car Part Front/Rear Dogbone 89.5mm
Item No: 08029


Anyone able to help on the fitment?

I have been running a t4.1 ft still doing real good against the .2 I like the v2 shocks and I'm gonna put ghea pistons but also wanna run a bladder on the . Anyone have any experienced with what bladders on the v2s like would fit? Thanks

I have finally got my t-4 running and my track nearly completed. In testing the track I pulled and lost the screws that hold the front bumper on. It is the wide RPM front bumper. I was wondering what length screws would hold it on or how other people have solved this problem? My track is proving to be difficult to navigate and at first I spent most of my time on the hood than on the wheels. This is a very fun hobby. I think that I should have enough threads left in the holes to hold it on. I tried lock tight and that did not keep the screws in so they had to have pulled out. I think longer screws and lock tight will hold permanantly.

One problem I can solve, the other I can't.

To keep the 4 wheels on the ground, and the hood and roof towards the sky, use throttle control. Don't try to race yet. You aren't there. Let your objective be to NOT wreck. No matter how slow you're going, just don't wreck. Everybody started out as a novice and there is no such thing as a "born" RC racer. They are developed over time.

My grandson had the same issue. He wanted to "race" before he could drive. It's not the course's fault, or the truck's fault. It's the "driver's" fault 100%.

You'll get there, but patience is a must!! Remeber: Don't wreck no matter how slow you have to go.

My og t4 can hang with any

can any point to a setup that would be good for outdoor, rough dry track. that is bigger made mainly for 1/8 scall and 4wd sc. bigger jumps. etc.

im using the factory setup with losi green and yellow springs and 0.5 rear hubs and 35 front shock oil.

i tried to print off trading paints outdoor setup a few pages back but it doesnt give shock and camber link positions. plus i didnt know how much the difference the wet track would be over my dry tracks.