Both and computer
PDF won't show the set up
It has the page but blank

Try using Adobe reader on the computer. iPhones and iPads often have issues with setup PDFs.

Truck looks so nice IIGQ4U

Adobe Reader on iPad does the trick for me.

Just got the traktion drive. Doesn't have instructions, and the instructions online just show how to put the shoes and springs on. I figured out how to put it together (I think) but where do the shims go, and how do I know how many to use?

They are for adjusting the play on the clutchbell.

you want it shimmed like everything, not too tight not too loose.

Play between what and what? What direction? Where would one put the shims?

anyway to get this info added to the first page of the EB48 thread?


Went ahead and got some new pistons coming 1.3mm x 8 hole as well as the rest of the upper range of sway bars. Will report back on how they feel if they come in on time. for the Jam session monday, assuming I can go.


Here is a question for those who still use a center or rear chassis brace, but NOT both, which one did you prefer to leave on and why?

If you want to leave one of those braces on, leave on the center. The Idea of removal is to allow the back of the chassis to twist in order to make the back end stick better. So start with removing the rear and then if more flex is needed , go to center removal.

I would do the same after I try with all braces

I have an Mbx6 tekno conversion and there is alot of flexing bec of no brace at the back and I like the way it runs, if the SCT runs the same way without braces at the mid and back that would be great, and it would run better than my old scte

sorry didnt get any info on the shocks
but what is better standard or emulsion and what are the benefits for this truck
thanks

Since I dont see it listed on page 1 does that mean that the losi servo horn (aluminum) will give me issues? Thanks Can;t wait to get my truck

I tried the removal process at the track, didn't notice that much of a difference for my conditions so I left them off. Afterwards, i wish I had tried removing the center only and leaving the rear to see how it felt. Especially as the rear is easy to disconnect but still leave on the chassis.

Oh well.

Anyone here running stiffer swaybars like 3.0, etc?

As stated by TeknoRC in the past:
The Team drivers suggest you use Standard bladder for smooth tracks and Vented Cap bladder for rough outdoor tracks. I built mine as Standard bladder since I will be running on Astro Turf. Also it's suggested that you always run with the shock boots.

Between the clutch bell and the axle its on.

with traction drive it's easier too see how much it needs before you put it all together because the shoes put pressure on the bell.

Red circle on picture is where the shims go if needed.

The one I had on my losi would not work.The arm has to fit between servo and horn.