IMHO, the ball diff design in the b44 platform needs to change. It needs to use a much larger diff ring, some how. That would keep it smoother for longer like the the 2wd transmission. I can build a diff that will last longer than the outdrives in my T4.1 using huge tires and a 6.5 with the slipper tight as sin, but my b44 diffs wear out much faster.

My theory is that the balls and rings are exposed to more torque the closer the the center they are and thus chatter and tear up the rings far easier.

Marcus???

Picked up my Tekin gen 2 6.5 today. Buggy is ready to go, but the local track isn't open until Saturday. This is killing me!

just got the reedy 6.5 for my son, hope to have it all ready by this weekend.

Mate you are a champion bought 2 from your site cant wait to get them!!!

Hideeho
I finally got some quality time in with my new to me b44.1 Sunday & figured out tires & made some minor tweeks. It handles like a dream! I can get it to track straight through a high speed sweeper or get it to pivot on dime in a hairpin. I just wish I could get my agama to handle this well!

My 1st race with it was last night. We only did 2 qualifiers. 1st one went well. I had a slight bobble early & dropped to 3rd or so. worked my way back to the leader & passed him in a high speed sweeper only to have a back marker stuff a pipe right in front of me. I finished 2nd. 2nd qualifier was a throw out due to getting tangled multiple times on the 1st lap & getting lapped on the 2nd On the bright side, I worked my way back to 3rd & unlapped myself in the process. That unlapping didn't sink in until the a-main. I started 2nd. I passed for the lead on the 3rd turn & never looked back. I ended up lapping the entire field! I have never done that with anything! My fast lap for the night was faster than the ebugs turned. All of this was with an 8.5t lrp x12 (4dot timing on the can, 0 on the esc).

My question now is, does that extra 8mm of the b44.2 really make this buggy that much better?

my diffs are clicking under braking only, I have about 10 packs since my first build of the car, is there any recomendation on shimming now that I have some packs on the car?

Although you can go back an add an extra shim after break in if you feel the need, it isn't a must do as long as they were shimmed well in the first place.

Are you certain both diffs are clicking ? Usually the rear one will have issues before the front. I'd open the rear one first.

I just helped a local last week who's rear diff got chewed up. His shimming was correct and there were no hairline cracks in his rear arms, rear chassis brace, or rear gearbox. Turned out that he had his slipper WAY (locked essentially) too tight, which will chew up the diff pretty quick.

Also, hard braking is really tough on the gearboxes as well. Most dial their braking strengths down on their radio settings. I run like 90% brake EPA with a negative brake curve on top of that as well. To test, on the fastest part of your track, if you hit the brake hard, your car should still take a few feet to come to a complete stop.

That buggy was dialed, looked great (except when it passed me ) and you drove it like a mad man. Congrats on the win, man.

Mega huge unbelievable difference. Test drive someones at the track. Its more stable.

Same here got this kit done and ready hit the dirt. Come on Saturday.

Isn't there a +8mm chassis for the .1 that will get you close to the .2 performance without throwing down the bucks for a new .2 kit? Maybe I'm thinking B4?

Now that i think about it I guess you would need one or two longer center cvd's and then the vts or avid slipper and big bores if you don't have them now and might as well off load the .1 and get a .2.

I say if a few of us chip in to get the conversion, I can machine the parts?

Can you machine an aluminum chassis ?

http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l..._B44.2_FT_Kit/