Have you tried JVDrc located in the Netherlands, they imported the Werks engine line.
Here is a link to there webshop :

http://www.jvd-rc.com/catalog/engines-54/

If you click on where yo buy on our web site here:

http://www.werksracing.com/wheretobuy.html

You will find the info for our importer in Sweden. Touch base with Fredde there and he will be able to help you out

Thanks Werks for the great Break In instructions. This is my 3rd motor and I finally think I "Get it" reading your instructions. I was one of those with a wide open throttle stop and crazy top end.. My friends were constantly having to bail me out of bad tunes.
This weekend we will start the HSN break-in and I cant wait.

If only all the manufactures could provide service like Werks!

You have a new long term customer now..

Thanks,
Rob

I think Rons break-in and tuning guide are second to NONE. It just plain WERKS!

Anybody have a used b5 crank fs with lots a life left on it? If so PM me please

Had a quick plug question. I put a colder plug than I had before in my werks since its getting like spring in here. So I was bench tuning it, and the temps were lower than the p5 of course. My issue is, I can blip it a few times and the first time round in the mid rpm range its blurps and then picks up rpms, after a few more blips its great. Also the idle is pretty good for around 10 20 seconds then it dies. I am afraid to lean it too much and also am going to be on track wednesday or so. Any ideas?

I also put a heavier flywheel to avoid wheelspin on our indoor track.

As your running it on the bench and not getting some good temperature into the motor, the crankcase is not heating up enough to properly vaporise the fuel held within it - so your crankcase is in a "rich state" at idle.
With the first couple of throttle blips this overly rich mixture which holds droplets of fuel as opposed to a nice mist of vaporised fuel/air mix will make the motor run rich and blubbery. After a few blips the excess fuel will be cleared from the crankcase and a leaner fuel/air mix will be available to the motor. This is why it clears after a few blips.

It sound like you are running a little too rich - probably top and bottom.
This rich setting is causing excess fuel to build up in the crankcase as the engine sits there idling away. Sooner rather than later this mixture will become so rich the motor basically floods itself (the revs drop) and it will eventually flame out as you describe. The colder plug may well require slightly leaner settings than before too.
Make sure your idle gap is set at .5mm. If the motor won't idle at this setting then lean the bottom end needle until the idle speed comes up to a satisfactory level - getting the relationship between the idle air gap and the bottom end needle is critical to achieving a good tune on any nitro motor.
Always make sure you run the motor up to a good temp before you tune - tuning a cold motor is a recipe for disaster, because of the low crankcase temperature / rich mixture situation mentioned previously.
Hope that helps

Hmmm....could not have said it any better lol 100% agree!


Also one comment, you mentioned P5. If that was not a typo and you are running an OS P5 or anything colder that that (if it is made) then that it too cold of a plug. You are in N. CA so you I'm familiar with the weather here and you should be running something like our #5 plug in these conditions. In the summer months you can go to one of our #6's as we have low humidity in Northern California.

We have found a lot of customers (with various brands of motors) often fall into the trap of ending up with an idle gap that is too wide when tuning - resulting in what we have affectionately labelled as the "Average Woman Tune" - a fat bottom end with a wide gap and too lean on top .
No offence meant to any of the fairer sex who may read this (us men are of course all such fine physical specimens - NOT ).
It's just a handy way of remembering what trying to tune with too wide of an idle gap will ultimately create.
Remembering this seems to help customers find their way to a better state of tune on their motors while having a little chuckle at the same time.

Thanks guys! That makes a lot of sense. We are having a few hot days here so was just tuning with a colder plug, also wanted to learn to tune better for those weird weather days.

I have the p5 plugs from werks which I use for race days, and a werks p6 coming from amain tomorrow.

The plug in question was one sold by my LHS which is supposed to be equal to a werks p6 (they did not have any werks in stock. this one was a lutzrc l4 turbo plug). I will go back to the p5 for now since its not getting above 70F for a month at least now.

Lolz yeah I will keep that in mind. With the #p5 it was 0.4 or so, I am running a 6 mm venturi as well for less bottom end on the xb9.

In my experience, since I was a kid in the 80's with airplanes, bench tuning ended up being a waste of time and fuel. You just won't saturate everything with enough heat so when your running your vehicle in real world conditions, instead of the bench, you find yourself re-tuning anyway.

I am leaning that way as well. Bench tuned it last week and it was temping around 220, on track was a whole different story was around 260 so had to retune.

Running the 6mm venturi will lower the top end performance more than the bottom end generally, due to restricting the total air flow possible into the motor.
Depending on your state of tune you can actually get increased bottom end punch with the smaller venturi due to a "ram air" effect at lower throttle settings.
The increased taper of the small venturi acts like a fuel injection trumpet on a full sized motor, increasing the velocity of the air flowing into the throttle slide area on initial or partial opening of the slide, thus slightly boosting low end response - the opposite of what you are looking for.

Smoother trigger finger, taller gearing or a softer clutch with the stock 7mm venturi would probably be better ways to achieve what you are after.
Try the Werks Pro Series 4 shoe clutch with medium or heavy flywheel, and run 2 x alloy shoes with gold 1.0 springs opposite each other, and 2 x carbon shoes with green 0.9 springs opposite each other.
This set up combined with the heavier flywheel will give you smooth bottom end response with less wheel spin.
With the linear power of the B6 and this clutch set up, the XB9 is one sweet ride. Nice choice of buggy by the way

Hmm, your right. Example comes to mind while watering the garden, a finger on the hose increases the water jet speed.
As for taller gearing, I am already running a 14T bell (factory 13). Should I go to a 15T instead? Will that be too much to spool up? I already have the m2c steel flywheel on order, and already running softest springs (red) ont he aluminum m2c wheel. I love my xb9 cant wait for the new one launching tomorrow, then the older chassis goes electric . Have a B5 BTW.