Could someone tell me what pinion gear to use with 75t spur gear on small 1/10 scale track with 100ft straightaway.

i used a 20 when i had a 75 pinion...tbh that size a spur gear is to low a gear...u want to have more torque so u can have a better punch on exiting corners...and use a 19 or 20 th pinion...just my opinion!!

17.5?

I got 78t a 80t and I only got a 24t pinion . See how work out thanks for the opion.

What motor?

Ok i think ive got the truck almost dialed in but i've got a few tweaks i need help with. The truck in run on indoor smooth clay at trackside in WI. Ive got an close setup to one of the 2010 chad due setups in the truck now i'm running 30 weight oil all the way around which seems good, springs feel good (i think blue front silver rear have to double check.) 3.5* toe in the back with 2 antisquat. Now ive got two issues that i can drive around but are kind of anoying if i could get them minimized a little bit more i'd be happy. Coming into the sweeper i'm all good until i lift throttle then it starts to step out which i'm ok with i just get on the throttle a little and it straightens out. But what i know is slowing me down is i'm getting a very noticable push on the infield. What can i do to get it to bite a little bit more in the front? The other thing it does is coming on the straight we have a banked turn to the straight. This may be that i just have to stay off the throttle longer but if i get in it to early the back end gets all kind of loose and i end up lifting atleast once or twice to get it straightened out.(this might be the track also) I'm running stock 17.5 and over all the truck is dialed in the suspension i just know i'm missing something to get it right for me. heres a link to the setup i started off of like i said ive got 30 wt oil front and back now i don't have the 30* caster blocks or the rear hubs(this might help?) and i didn't add weight. Everything else is pretty close to this sheet.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...es20101205.pdf

17.5 I run a 28/75 on my truck with about a 100ft straight. works well in the infield for power and i'm not getting torched on the straights

what tire compound,i noticed when i run the same fr/rr it is loose but if the fr is harder then the rear it turns in/out and has great traction

I'm running ion mc all the way around I was tempted to switch out to my panther clays for a lap but didn't get time

What foams should I get for HB Beams on a med bite clay track?

I've never run at trackside...been running at 510 raceway in Foley MN. It's moist indoor clay, med/high bite. I certainly can't say that my truck handles perfectly at this point but I think it's pretty fast. I've had at least one person that tells me it's twitchy and my fast lap times are some of the best out there but I tend to put the tires on the up side too often. I agree with Smokes comment about the tires. I was running Panther Rattlers all the way around and traction rolling on the sweeper at the end of our back straight periodically. I switched to gold barcodes in the front only and it took away just enough steering to make it more manageable in the sweeper. I was also struggling with looseness on power and to some extent with corner entry. The back end wanted to step out too much for my liking. I was already at 4 degrees rear toe. One of the guys at the track suggested that I jack up my anti-squat (was running 1 degree at that point). I threw a 2 degree shim in there along with the existing 1 degree and the truck just felt awesomely balanced all over the track. Didn't really make much sense as far as what I knew about anti-squat but it worked. I tinkered with 2 degrees and 4 degrees but 3 was the best. I recommended this to another racer with an SC10 and he agreed. Not to suggest that 3 degrees anti-squat is the perfect setting for all SC10's but I think the adjustment changes more on the car than most folks think resisting squatting under acceleration and braking would do. Hope this helps.

hmm forgot i could bump to 3 yet on anti squat i to was also thinking this wouldn't help but might be worth a shot tho. The tires i have on the front are more worn than the rears since i waited to long to rotate them. that also may be part of my problem maybe i'll try my newer set of panthers i have as back up to see if this helps with the antisquat

What I would do first is get the right tire. Green bar codes for trackside and prep with motor cleaner before each round. If your running weight like chad setup remove it and go back to his shock package. Running a short camber link in front will give you more turn in. But the tires are the biggest thing Proline m3 and m4 or panther soft or super soft and j concepts green or blue.

anti-squat is for on power grip so i dont know how it help!!!! seam to me like it would make it worst cuz anti-squat need power to the wheel to get grip wend you let off it gose away. another thing is off-power problem is mostly from the front end... harder spring or/ oil in the front . run you camber link in the front on the outside tower and hub. you could try shock limiter in the rear. last thing is if you know how to make a front sway bar you can drive harder in to a trun with out spinning.

I did think about getting some m3 or m4 tires. was worried they would be too soft. are the clay compound just to hard for the track?