SC10 Thread Part 2
#2881
with used cars, it is mostly bad bearings, stripped screws, missing parts, bad shock seals and worn out diffs. I always plan to put another $30 into a used car. Thus I pay accordingly. I have gotten pretty good and just looking at a car and being able to tell it will be a lemon or not. There are a few little things in pictures to look for. But I did buy an sc10 once that was more than I wanted to deal with and just resold it and bought another. I lost money on the first sc10, but got a super gem on the second. And ended up coming out ahead. The best cars are normally the "I bought htis for a big race and I am selling after only one weekend". Then picking the car up for 50-60 less than Amain with upgrades. That is how I got my B4.1, lol.
#2883
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 4,003
From: Cali
with used cars, it is mostly bad bearings, stripped screws, missing parts, bad shock seals and worn out diffs. I always plan to put another $30 into a used car. Thus I pay accordingly. I have gotten pretty good and just looking at a car and being able to tell it will be a lemon or not. There are a few little things in pictures to look for. But I did buy an sc10 once that was more than I wanted to deal with and just resold it and bought another. I lost money on the first sc10, but got a super gem on the second. And ended up coming out ahead. The best cars are normally the "I bought htis for a big race and I am selling after only one weekend". Then picking the car up for 50-60 less than Amain with upgrades. That is how I got my B4.1, lol.

#2884
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 260
I am fairly new to the SC world and am having trouble trying to get my diff setup properly. I followed the instructions from the post on how to build and break in the diff here at rc tech. When I go to setup the slipper like it states I cant get the slipper tight enough to get the tires off of the ground without the diff squealing. I have tried both carbide and ceramic diff balls but have had no luck. Just need some help on what I am doing wrong.
#2886
I am fairly new to the SC world and am having trouble trying to get my diff setup properly. I followed the instructions from the post on how to build and break in the diff here at rc tech. When I go to setup the slipper like it states I cant get the slipper tight enough to get the tires off of the ground without the diff squealing. I have tried both carbide and ceramic diff balls but have had no luck. Just need some help on what I am doing wrong.
Most likely you also flat spotted the diff balls ...
Assuming you are using the kit carbide balls ...
Next time
Before installing the diff inside the transmission ?
Check the diff's tightest by sliding two drivers inside the outdrive slots and see if you can turn the diff gear when locked in by the drivers .
If you can move the gear by hand , it still needs to be tighten more .
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 02-15-2013 at 11:55 AM.
#2887
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 192
I am fairly new to the SC world and am having trouble trying to get my diff setup properly. I followed the instructions from the post on how to build and break in the diff here at rc tech. When I go to setup the slipper like it states I cant get the slipper tight enough to get the tires off of the ground without the diff squealing. I have tried both carbide and ceramic diff balls but have had no luck. Just need some help on what I am doing wrong.
how i break the diff in is once i get is set (like on top) i run 5 min on the track. i try not to hit the gas to hard and just try to stay smooth to get a fell for the track and the diff (most the time i do this in the 1st qualifier). after that the diff will be lose... so i tighten the diff around a haft a turn and it set from there. most the time i never haft to tighten it till next time i redo the diff.
Last edited by gatorage; 02-15-2013 at 12:34 PM.
#2889
#2890
Tech Adept
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 192
i run my slipper tight. it only slip wend it haft to. put it this way i never haft to buy pads. but most people set it with front tire and just get it lift a tiny bit it dose not haft to go all the way up. or you can go by the sound if you hit the gas hard and it make a lot of noise it to lose. and even it you run your slipper super tight it hard to brake the gear in the diff unless you do crazy stuff like hit brakes wend you land form big jumps or something like that / you should have your brakes set up where they dont lock.
#2891
once the diff feels good in hand it still has to be set properly after it goes in the truck. Leave the spur cover off and hold the spur with your thumb, and flick the right tire fairly quick. It should spin around 3/4 to 1 full rotation. This diff setting is common and can be adjusted slightly from there. Once this is set you CAN tighten the slipper with the front end rise method to get you in the ballpark, then adjust slightly according to how much traction is available in the track surface.
#2892
I was only off by a hundred bucks, my bad!! I just ordered the SC10B front shock tower and A arm from Hobby People. They also have a super shipping price of $1.85! What a deal! Both A main and tower are out till the end of the month.
Last edited by platgof; 02-15-2013 at 03:09 PM.



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