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Old 02-13-2013 | 09:38 AM
  #2956  
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Originally Posted by 34x17
Box stock setup except green rear springs, 32.5wt AE oil in rear, and an ounce of lead between the battery packs. Pink BK bars in the rear, Barcodes gold in the front, both with AKA inserts. Tires and inserts broken with ~ 4 packs in them. Diffs set per manual. High bite clay smallish track in Portland, OR. Running a 9.5 with a bit of boost -- just enough to clear our triple consistently. No drag brake.

With the weight and these tires the car is very easy to drive and stable but I would like just a tad more rotation through the tight turns -- it's a bit pushy, for the first time ever. When I had no weight in the rear it over rotated.

Should I take a bit of weight back out? Looking for a subtle change that will not disturb the rest of the handling, which I find to be just about perfect.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Add a washer to the rear inside camber link. This will transition a little traction from low speed corner entry to on power corner exit. If that is too much of a change, you may consider going down to 30 weight oil in the rear if it isn't prohibitively thin for the big jumps.
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Old 02-13-2013 | 09:56 AM
  #2957  
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Originally Posted by 34x17
Box stock setup except green rear springs, 32.5wt AE oil in rear, and an ounce of lead between the battery packs. Pink BK bars in the rear, Barcodes gold in the front, both with AKA inserts. Tires and inserts broken with ~ 4 packs in them. Diffs set per manual. High bite clay smallish track in Portland, OR. Running a 9.5 with a bit of boost -- just enough to clear our triple consistently. No drag brake.

With the weight and these tires the car is very easy to drive and stable but I would like just a tad more rotation through the tight turns -- it's a bit pushy, for the first time ever. When I had no weight in the rear it over rotated.

Should I take a bit of weight back out? Looking for a subtle change that will not disturb the rest of the handling, which I find to be just about perfect.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Are you having issues with rotation on or off power ?

In my experience and understanding from team drivers, the front diff adjustment is really tied to how the steering acts on the car. Tighter front diff = better on power steering, and looser = better off power steering. You'll need to find the setting that works best on your layout and driving style.

Also, you can try running the steering ackerman link in the front hole of the steering rack instead. Another option is to try running the middle wheelbase setting on the rear hubs. Either of those attempts should give you more corner rotation.

Good luck
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Old 02-13-2013 | 10:44 AM
  #2958  
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Thanks Rigor and Razathorn .... this is exactly what I was looking for ... the tips and the reasoning behind them!

I'd definitely like more off-power steering so if I can loosen the front diff while staying within the acceptable range i'll try that, but since my diff and slipper combo is golden right now I may start with the extra washer. Seems that many of setups I have seen call for 30wt in the rear and the jumps in the current layout are really well designed with proper landings so I may try that as well.

BTW, not to jinx myself, but I am new to mod and new to 4wd buggy, and not a great driver by any stretch. This buggy has been very tough and reliable, and I guess I got a good batch of the ball cups because I have only busted one in 3 months of driving/racing on a weekly basis. Other than two broken arms and a torn front bumper that has been it.
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Old 02-13-2013 | 10:50 AM
  #2959  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
yes , the screws will stay under the film until you reinstall the part..
This way you will never remove the film to service the car ...

The film will last much longer for you if you try ...
Great idea thanks
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Old 02-13-2013 | 11:03 AM
  #2960  
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Originally Posted by 34x17
Thanks Rigor and Razathorn .... this is exactly what I was looking for ... the tips and the reasoning behind them!

I'd definitely like more off-power steering so if I can loosen the front diff while staying within the acceptable range i'll try that, but since my diff and slipper combo is golden right now I may start with the extra washer. Seems that many of setups I have seen call for 30wt in the rear and the jumps in the current layout are really well designed with proper landings so I may try that as well.

BTW, not to jinx myself, but I am new to mod and new to 4wd buggy, and not a great driver by any stretch. This buggy has been very tough and reliable, and I guess I got a good batch of the ball cups because I have only busted one in 3 months of driving/racing on a weekly basis. Other than two broken arms and a torn front bumper that has been it.
To further expand on what rigor said and to add my own experience on the diffs to the mix:

You would be surprised at what constitutes tight/loose on diffs in this car. The most important thing you can do for your sanity is ensure that the front diff is always at least a bit tighter than the rear, or else the car will start to feel inconsistent, at least that's what happens to me.

My NORMAL front diff setting is like 1/8 to 1/32 turn off of tight with a 5/64 L wrench. My normal rear diff setting is 1/8 to 1/16 turn from tight. You can definitely get more rotation out of the car with loser diffs, and that is a VERY good and correct way to do it, but you will be giving up a little high speed stability with looser diffs. I find that the tighter the diffs are, the harder I can drive the car, or "wheel it" as some put it. If your track is super tight, loosening the diffs may be the perfect and correct answer, but do know this: you should be able to get a LOT of low speed steering from this car even with a reasonably tight front diff. IF you're on a lower traction track that is tight, then loosening the diffs is almost always right, but if you're on a higher traction track, you may want to look at other places primarily.

Only you will be able to know what is right. I just wanted to ensure you knew what constituted "tight" and "loose diffs" so you could determine where your diffs are already compared to others. I run 32.5 weight oil up front in my car and a tight diff. Gives me bananas steering in the sweeper and lots of low speed steering too.

Try it all and let us know what worked and what you liked!
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Old 02-13-2013 | 11:55 AM
  #2961  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
Panther makes slicks that should work as an on road tire.
Thank you; I'll check them out.
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Old 02-13-2013 | 11:58 AM
  #2962  
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I asked this a few days ago but no responses. Does anyone run any of the pro 4 tekin motors in there b44? I have a spare pro 4 4600 and an rx8. I thought about cutting the fan shroud off the rx8 to make it fit? Anyone think it would or already have tried? Thanks in advance
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Old 02-13-2013 | 12:18 PM
  #2963  
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I've seen pics of it done in a Durango. If it fits in that, it'll fit anywhere.
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Old 02-13-2013 | 12:19 PM
  #2964  
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Originally Posted by socal23
I asked this a few days ago but no responses. Does anyone run any of the pro 4 tekin motors in there b44? I have a spare pro 4 4600 and an rx8. I thought about cutting the fan shroud off the rx8 to make it fit? Anyone think it would or already have tried? Thanks in advance
Drivetrain will strip out in 5...4...3...2...1...

Last edited by Jmuck69; 02-13-2013 at 01:18 PM.
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Old 02-13-2013 | 12:35 PM
  #2965  
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Originally Posted by socal23
I asked this a few days ago but no responses. Does anyone run any of the pro 4 tekin motors in there b44? I have a spare pro 4 4600 and an rx8. I thought about cutting the fan shroud off the rx8 to make it fit? Anyone think it would or already have tried? Thanks in advance
This is just my opinion but I would sell that system and by a 10th scale system. You will be better off in the long run.
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Old 02-13-2013 | 12:38 PM
  #2966  
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Good luck finding a 48 pitch 5mm shank pinion.
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Old 02-13-2013 | 01:35 PM
  #2967  
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
Drivetrain will strip out in 5...4...3...2...1...
That was funny. Thanks for the input.
What about servos. Radiopost blue?
What is enough.torque for the b44?
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Old 02-13-2013 | 02:21 PM
  #2968  
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Originally Posted by socal23
That was funny. Thanks for the input.
What about servos. Radiopost blue?
What is enough.torque for the b44?
Anything over 100oz is fine for 10th buggys. I like the XP1015.
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Old 02-13-2013 | 03:12 PM
  #2969  
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Originally Posted by Chase1472
Anything over 100oz is fine for 10th buggys. I like the XP1015.
This.

lol, even low-profile servos will work.
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Old 02-13-2013 | 06:32 PM
  #2970  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
bomber

Next time instead of trimming the film around the screws ?

Just push your driver though the film and loosen the screws .
As you unscrew the film will stretch making for a very small hole if any after your done .

Most likely dirt won't clog the screw as the film will still do its job..

You will see....
Some guys are using a soldering iron as well, just to open a small hole for the wrench, not the entire screw. The edges round from the heat so they don't grab dirt as much.
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