@UN4RACING - What are those angled ends on your camber links called? I'd like to grab a set. I'm noticing some scuffing on the inside of my wheels.

jc makes some. If you would like some pm me your address and ill send you a few. You will need shorter turnbuckles to run them tho.

You mean the slight weight shift that Velcro would allow? Guess it would not take much movement in that light car to have an effect... didn't think of that.

Once I have gone back & forth next time out I will servo tape it in. Getting settled on setup now so I'm going to pull the ballast and see how it drives. Pretty sure I'm putting it right back in but want to see the change.

Like a lot of things in life there is more than one school of thought. It's always possible for folks to have two completely different experiences given similar circumstances.

WRT to the chassis film, I wanted to be able to test different weights as well as placement of those weights. This required me to cut holes screw holes in my chassis film. In addition, I cracked the rear chassis plate which required cutting a few more screw holes in the chassis film.

I view the film a consumable item and if it tore, I would spend the $9 on a new one. My local track is hard packed clay with a few rocks here and there. I personally consider a tear at the screw hole lower probablility than a tear on the leading or side edges. After all when removing the film on servo tape I attack the edge not the middle.

Anyway, I know some folks have had a bad experience with cutting holes in their film but I haven't. As you can see by the picture, the film has done a remarkable job protecting the chassis. If it eventually tears, then I will spend the $9 and replace it (actually already have a spare just in case).

I'm not discounting the experience of others, just presenting a different experience.

I've just built the front gearbox, and I ended up with a gearbox and an unused set screw.

I've read the directions <lotsa> times, but I see no reference to it or place for it.

Starting the rear gearbox, I see the same set screw in Bag C2.

I'd rather be long a part than short one, but ...

Where do it go?

It's not used.


Actually... you might want to use one to secure the antenna in the antenna mount...

To the cva that they instruct to glue the pin instead of using the set screw? But they provide a set screw if you want to build it the traditional way.

Some bags have stuff for the next step I found also.

Ha ha! Talk about case in point... you have tears everywhere but the holes

It's probably an unbeknownst to me case of OCD makes me not want to cut holes in the film.
And when I did I just like you said spent the measly $9 to replace it

bomber

Next time instead of trimming the film around the screws ?

Just push your driver though the film and loosen the screws .
As you unscrew the film will stretch making for a very small hole if any after your done .

Most likely dirt won't clog the screw as the film will still do its job..

You will see....

The build seems to be going well (that means I've overlooked something, right?) I'm ready to start linkages. In a couple of days I should be ready to glue tires.

I'm assembling the car for the stock setup, which I've read here is good for medium-bite clay, except for green springs (I have those) and 30wt oil for the rear.

Before I get to clay I hope to enter some parking-lot races. I realize the 44.2 is an off-road buggy, but I wonder if there are on-road setups available somewhere. I checked petitrc and saw plenty of astroturf and clay setups but nothing for hard smooth surfaces.

Does someone make on-road tires?

Panther makes slicks that should work as an on road tire.

So I leave the screw in place and lift off the part the screw was holding?

yes , the screws will stay under the film until you reinstall the part..
This way you will never remove the film to service the car ...

The film will last much longer for you if you try ...

I have to admit. That's pretty smart. I don't tend to run the film on the indoor tracks, but I might on my next chassis.

Box stock setup except green rear springs, 32.5wt AE oil in rear, and an ounce of lead between the battery packs. Pink BK bars in the rear, Barcodes gold in the front, both with AKA inserts. Tires and inserts broken with ~ 4 packs in them. Diffs set per manual. High bite clay smallish track in Portland, OR. Running a 9.5 with a bit of boost -- just enough to clear our triple consistently. No drag brake.

With the weight and these tires the car is very easy to drive and stable but I would like just a tad more rotation through the tight turns -- it's a bit pushy, for the first time ever. When I had no weight in the rear it over rotated.

Should I take a bit of weight back out? Looking for a subtle change that will not disturb the rest of the handling, which I find to be just about perfect.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!