Kurtwk5

iTrader: (1)

Hello
Ok this is from a cost stand point and not speed ive allways thought my TC3 was a very fast car when I got it in 2001. But is the cost of parts to put the the steel rear diff and solid front axle wich would be around 50 plus any other things I will need to make it brushless. Or just buy a new touring car altogether?

Ive not done any competitive racing since the early 80s so I really dont know anything about brushless just from what I have read they do not seem to be older car friendly.

Kurt

Rojna

are you planing on racing or bashing ? what type of set up are you wanting to buy ?? The plastic outdrives are fine with 10.5 or more.

Kurtwk5

iTrader: (1)

I plan on racing it VTA rules i want to get this motor and esc.
Novak Edge 2S/Ballistic Brushless System 25.5T VTA

HPI tires and rims
and camaro body.

Rojna

Then you want to keep your plastic outdrives, there much lighter then the steel ones. You can run a diff up front or spool, try it both ways and see what you like, I run a slip spool made with lightweight steel outdrives(31062) and TC5/6 spool pads (31173), its a lot easier on the axles then a solid spool.

Also look at the new hobbywing justock esc.






2013 SNOWBIRDS coverage

Justin33

iTrader: (45)

Does anyone know where I can get a carbon conversion chassis from? Something like bmi or IRS or penguin looking to update my car a little and add some bling.

Rojna

ebay, they do show up sometimes.





2013 SNOWBIRDS coverage

IndyHobbies.com

Here's a photo of the RPM front bumper for the TC3. Most of you are familiar with it, but just in case you are not, I thought I'd post this. I don't know if RPM still makes them, but I've bought a couple of them off ebay in the past. This one a racing buddy game me.

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

Hey guys, I found these on eBay and ordered some. The price and shipping is very reasonable especially since they are in the U.K.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Losi-LO...item337add202b

I've been using Losi graphite parts on my TC3 for some time, and the most valuable has been the steering block. I can't remember the last time I've had a screw or ball end back out of my steering. They are way better than stock and even better than aluminum that can bend after a good hit. These don't bend at all and breaking them is very difficult. They do change the steering geometry a little and give you more ackerman, which I like. I don't know how the 6 degree block carriers (C-hubs) would affect steering because I've never tried them. I would only use them with the "F-0" front suspension mount though, keeping the total caster to 6 degrees. The photo is showing the older style block that has only a single hole for the steering ball end for the XXX-S. These are slightly narrower and keep the car width the same as a stock TC3. The newer versions from the Losi JRX-S and type R cars with two holes make the car about 4mm wider. It's another tuning option but the dog bones sit right on the end of the diff cup when you use them.

Rojna

I use TC4 steering blocks, you can get them normal & carbon 31004 31005

Aluminum ones arent good if you hit stuff lol, I had one bend and it took me a while to figure out why the car handled like crap

AudioStylz

iTrader: (15)

I was unaware that there was a TC3 forum still around.

So just to update from the TC4 thread to here. I was in the market to buy an ARTR touring car for VTA but couldn't find the right deal and all the ARTR for sale ads I found were sold just as I was about ready to buy. I had 1 other option and that has for the most part fell through too. So I got to thinking and remembered I have a roller TC3 just collecting dust. Called the hobby shop/track that I'll be racing at to see what all they carry, surprised to find out they carry most of the parts for the TC3.

On to plan D! Tear down and rebuild my old RTR TC3. Last time it was raced was back in 2004 in stock foam. Still had the JR Digital servo, Novak TC Cyclone speed control, Epic 27t (Motor of the Monsters) motor.

Everything was pulled out, the TC3 was pulled apart front to rear cleaning and inspecting for worn out or broken parts.

All that I need to make this a quality roller are:

4 new wheel bearings, 2 CVDs, 2 stub axles, shock rebuild kit.

Tomorrow I plan on getting the TC3 closer to being ready to race. I hope to have enough money to get the wheels/tires.

So as of right now I'm just shy of $105 spent getting into VTA racing again. $85 shipped for a Novak Havoc speed control with Novak SS Pro 25.5 motor and just under $20 for the servo.

Anyway, another TC3 soon to make a return from the dead!

AudioStylz

iTrader: (15)

Any setup sheets online or personal for higher bite carpet tracks?

Nevermind, found a bunch here.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...ociatedTC3.htm

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

Cool and good luck, the TC3 I find to be a great VTA car.

Where I race we get 30+ VTA entries and I can pretty regularly crack the top 15 with mine, and I have a tweaked tub

Biggest drawback of the tub - I have compensated, but prefer not to fight the car. wish I could hold it flat somehow and heat it.. maybe it would straighten out.

James

Rojna

2402 CVA axles for the front
3887 Composite CVD bones for the rear
if you dont have the VCS2 upgrade kit then now is a good time ... 31123, build it without the blue foam on top.

AudioStylz

iTrader: (15)

All in due time my friend.

Are you saying not to use the blue front bumper and use the stock foam bumper?

Rojna

31123 VCS2 shock upgrade kit comes with blue foam that you can use in the shock cap ... dont use it, just the bladder.