Okay thank you for your help i was going to buy rpm anyway just wanted to find out

You can use the long ones, but you'll need to over-thread them a bit. Short ones work too obviously.

How many of you are running low-profile servos? I'm thinking about picking up a Futaba BLS451, so I can run all the electronics on 1 side. Anybody else doing the same?

Why?

Low profile servos won't work because the 4wd buggies are so quick and responsive it will tear up the gears in the servo.

Balance and what makes a low-pro servo weaker than a full-size?

The Kyosho guys run them all day long, and 44 drivers do as well/

A low profile servo will work just fine in the b44.2.

Hello all,

Yesterday i recieved my new B44.2 - I wanted to ask your advices for not doing mistakes.
for example:
1. is it a good idea to "work" on the carbon chassis with CA glue? useless?
2. Shall I put the Chassis Protector BEFORE i start to build and use a knife to cut the holes in it? or just at the end - after the car is built?

Any advise will be appriciated and tips.

Thanks,
Yaki

You should read or at least skim the build process in the kit manual first, as it answers 1 of your questions.

For the other part, I don't think glue on the carbon fiber is necessary, and in fact if you're not careful, can look a bit messy or sloppy afterwards.

Good luck

Thanks for the quick reply.
i read the manual... but one of the guys from the track said that it is a good idea to put the sticker as the first step - so it will be nice.....

I'm confused...

another suggestion is to purchase the Bulldog Proline body - that comes with undertray for B44.2

You don't want to put the film on the under chassis first. You don't want the film on until you have every screw that goes up through the bottom of the chassis 100% done and needing no further tweaking. The chassis is then able to lie over the entire bottom of the chassis and counter sunk screws, making it completely flat with an even surface.

If you were to cut holes and/or go through the chassis film with screws, it'll get all mangled up once you start hitting the track from the friction on the bottom of the chassis (from time to time).

It's one of the last steps in the manual for a reason, IMHO.

I like the Bulldog bodies too, but that plastic under tray can make a lot of noise out on the track. Most do not use it (or for long).

Thanks again.
I'm going over some thread regardign the CF Chassis edge treatment...
i think i understood HOW to do that... but it don't understand WHY to do that....
just because the edges are sharp?

Good guide here from Calandra Racing for preparing CF.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...rder=0&thold=0

MiCk B. :-)

BLS451 is standard sized servo, low profile one is BLS551. I use the 551 in touring car and 451 in offroad buggies.

Your B44.2 will come under the Roar legal weight limit substantially, if you're worried about such things. performance wise not much difference, very high quality servos, no problem in 551 offroad if you use servo saver

To add to this which is a good idea to use it, or I can say the chassis film is worth doing. The proline lexan one is okay to use but most wont use it for long.

What the the guy was probably leading to, is you want to take the chassis lay it on the film and trace it with an exacto before doing anything with the chassis.
Its the only way to get an exact cut out and is less trouble when its time to apply it.

Mornin kidz! lol
Hey UN, I'll be at practice tonight.