Well, I bought a losi 22 and ran it a little this weekend. And it helped me figure out what I need my b4 to do. I need my rear to rotate more and square up on power. The thing the 22 seemed to do well was rotate and square up well. When my b4s rear gets loose, power only makes it worse. And I need to counter steer and reduce throttle. I think this is costing me a lot of time on my current layout which has like 5 180's. My rear is planted too much in the corners and too loose on power coming out. I know we normally stay with 3deg toe and 2deg squat, but I wonder if i need to play with these. I have also debated moving my hubs forward/backward also.

When i had my 22 it seemed to get loose on corner exit thats what i didn't like about it. But i had a rtr 22 un tuned. sold it and got the b4 hoping it would be more like my sc10

if any of my cars start handling like an sc10, they will be sold. I have spent a year trying to make that track planted and it is far from good. But I want it to corner and be planted like a b4, so maybe that is just unrealistic, lol.

Yeah, because placing a small signal generator on top of a signal receiver, forcing the receiver to be bombarded by the signal from the transponder is a great idea. Not to mention how far from the front of the car the transponder is placed. Cross the line at the same time as someone else with your transponder that far back, and you will be scored behind them.

Moving the hubs back will free up the car. A bit more anti-squat, and one less shim inside the front shocks will allow more weight to transfer to the rear on throttle, causing the car to square up on throttle.

Yeah. I was kinda thinking something like that

Thank you 66Racer, it fits perfectly on the Futaba receiver!

-ifuonlyknew

It is not going to effect much putting it farther back. It will have 0 effect on lap times, being it is in the same spot in the start and finish of the lap.
I used to run it up front but moved it on the receiver for balancing the car and wiring neat.
Many racers run the transponder next to the receiver, and really, when do people cross the line at the same time? It is usually pretty distinct who is in the lead.

Receivers have external antennas for a reason...

Running mod with a shorty I prefer the pack towards the rear so help with traction. I run an aluminum bulkhead and the AVID steering rack for the weight up from. It has plenty of steering, but if it is raining and traction indoors is super high Ill either move it slightly forward and /or remove washers under the front ball studs

Ok, so I was finishing off this here gallon of milk and I happen to notice some lines and though to myself..... Why that looks like a wing for a buggy, and here it is! Woot!!





While its not perfect, it freeking works!! I need some "Got Milk?" Stickers now and I am set!

While it will not effect lap times because the transponder does not move from the start of the lap to the finish, it would have an effect if you caught someone on the last lap and crossed the line at the same time as they did. I have been racing r/c cars for 20+ years, and I have witnessed race finishes too close to call without the computer. Not saying it happens all the time, but if it does I don't want to be on the losing end.

As for the antenna, it doesn't matter. Any length of conductible material acts as an antenna, including all of the circuit paths on a circuit board in the receiver. I have done extensive work in the area of electronics, and trust me when I say it is a less than favorable idea to have the transponder on top of the receiver. Go ahead and check out the wiki page on EMI. One track where I used to race was right next to a police station antenna, and almost everyone who ever ran there had weird glitching issues. Another track had 3 support poles one track lane away from the drivers stand, and if there were a lot of people on track, people would start experiencing glitching behind the poles.

In the case of both of these things, you may race for the rest of your life with the transponder on top of the receiver, and never lose a finish too close to call by eye, or have a single glitching problem. But why chance it when it is such an easy thing to put the transponder anywhere else?

Also the transponder weighs about 4 grams. So unless you are balancing your car on four scales, without the shocks, I doubt you will see a difference.

Again, you may never have a problem, but why chance it?

Or if you don't already have a B4 at all.

Does anyone reckon I would notice going from carbon front shock tower and top plate and b44 rear arms and a non cab forward body, too all plastic std parts and a cab forward body I would notice any changes in the way it drives?

thanks Matt.
Bill some pepole are rookies, like you where when you start.

The carbon top plate is nice for durability. You might notice the front arms. I have talked to a lot of people that say they can feel the changes in different bodies. The cab forward put the windshield way forward and kinda acts like a little wing.

I guess i didn't mean handle like the sc10 but i'm used to the ae setup now and running the 22 it felt all different. I know the buggy will handle way better and thats what i'm hoping for something that will teach me how to drive better and maybe help me be a better tuner.

I bought a B4.1, used and without a steering servo.

I don't know enough about servos to recognize which of the servos listed on page 24 of the manual is most like the Savox.

Which #7336 spacer and which #9180 servo arm would be a good fit?