Originally Posted by Cody227

ok, pm me if they're good i need a new one in a few weeks and don't know which one. Maybe a flo-tek ford f-150 svt raptor because i like the aggresive look.

Originally Posted by MantisWorx

We had a discussion about this a few thousand post ago but i will explain a few things! There is a reason why the spur gears cost what they do, they are not east to machine, first of all they are made from a stock spur gear (4.00) and they are molded out of non machine able plastic (makes it very tough to clean up after machine work is done) while machining the material twist around the tool so about halfway through i have to program stop and pull material off of the tool. The ball holes you could probably drill the your self but would need an indexable super spacer to get the holes on the same B.C. and concentric with the center hole. If the holes are not on center you will not get a groove on the washers and that will also make a mess. Now the pin holes are a complete different animal, I know it looks like they are just holes stuck in there but if you read on the RCShox thread Cameron and i went through dozens of spur gears trying to get the right location of the pin holes. they are not on centerline and they have to be a certain distance away from the balls to work properly, also the ball holes are not a standard drill size, they are interpolated with an endmill, same with the pin holes. So in a nut shell and to answer your question, yes by all means you can drill the holes your self but it will not work properly. Machine work is a "by the hour" trade, take your 4.00 spur gear to a machine shop and see what they will charge to drill the holes for you. CNC rates are generally 80.00 per hour and i promise with programming and setup it would take about an hour to get the first one done and 8-10 minutes of cycle time to do the rest! so now you know why they are 13.00!!

Put the price thing in perspective for a minute, do you know how much it cost to make a lexan body, yet nobody complains about shelling out 50 bux for something that literally cost about 5.00, in fact the packaging cost almost as much as the body!! Tires, do you really think it cost 20.00 to make 2 tires, once again they are worth about 2.00 yet we all buy them every two weeks or so, sometime more than that! http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ballstud-Set-2

6.50 for something that cost the factory less than 25 cents but we all have them! I am just saying, a 13.00 spur gear is not that bad in the grand scheme of things especially if it works!

Originally Posted by ???E-Racer

I agree, bodies and tires get expensive. But there is a brighter side to the
picture, not all of us have a CNC machine to make our own parts out of.
As far as I know they cost thousands and thousands of dollars.
I trust the Associated plastic, I dont know why they came up with Area 51.
We all know that assocaited makes thier own plastic on thier own CNC machines. Area 51 is another term for them to be top secret about R&D.

Originally Posted by ballisticevo

So after a 10+ year break in electric RC finally Lipo and brushless brought me back. I just as of Thursday finally got my truck together and have been abusing it all weekend. My setup is as follows:

SC10 4x4 FT
Brushless Hobbies LT4 120a
TenShock SC401 V2 4400kv motor geared 12/62
Spektrum DX3s
6000mah 65c stick "may convert to saddles at some point but currently everyone is out of stock of the batteries I would like to run"

I am still learning everything over again as all i have messed with over the 10 year break has been bashing nitro rc. I am hoping to get back into running atleast a partial season this year at my local track/s.

So far the only issues I am running into is the 6000mah lipo is really pushing it to run 10 mins as that is how long the mains are. So far best run I have managed is 10:28 seconds beating around through grass with tons of wheel spin.

Originally Posted by Cain

wheel spin alone will suck down your runtime. Are these the conditions you will actually race in?

I would say give it a go on the track and then report back on runtime.

Originally Posted by Cain

I would say you should be fine. I would recommend that you watch how well the lipo pack stays balanced as well. Set your cutoff for something like 3.3V per cell as well.

If you find you stick with stick packs, those IP 7200mah 80C packs are awesome. Using these in my SCT410 and have been extemely happy about it.

Originally Posted by Mindcrimes

Ok I just picked up an rte version sc10 4x4. I already have a SCTE. Is the sc10 worth trying to race also? Or should I show it the door?

Originally Posted by Mindcrimes

Ok I just picked up an rte version sc10 4x4. I already have a SCTE. Is the sc10 worth trying to race also? Or should I show it the door?