No front overdrive means the front tires spin faster than back and rear underdrive means rear tires spin faster than front.

Won't make any difference if clicker is glued or locked down .

The over drive will pull a bit more out of the corner , also makes for more steering overall ...( compared to standard pulley)

Wild Cherry, and every one else here... Thanks for all the help and tips on the sc104x4. I thought for a long time that this truck was the best out there..... but after the set up help from you guys.... I know that it's the closest to a perfect driving machine out there. Associated was always on my top three list of car makers. Don't see myself driving anything else. Keep up the good work.

holy page rape most online photo share services allow you to change the picture size to accommodate computer screens so you don't have to scroll across the screen to see a pic in its complete form.



Also need RX8 owners who have a SC10 4x4 to post up some settings for the RX8. I will be running a 1410 castle motor till I can get a Pro 4

I wouldn't run parts from those guys if they paid me, most importantly there crap will break on the first lap....Don't waste your time and money

I ran a RX8, Savox 1258TG, and a Spektrum SR300. I had to use the Castle external BEC to keep the receiver from shutting off when cycling the steering too fast. I tried caps first and still had the issue. If you still have issues I wouldn't waste time trying to figure out other solutions, just run the Castle BEC.

Center difs back in stock but going quick!

I shredded my v.2 center diff spur gear but have 2 v.1 spur gears can I just drill the holes for the pins with the right size bit?

Otherwise I'll be running garodisk in the old mac the knife basket.

i know, but i just didnt want to buy a new clicker just to test this option, especially because its just a matter of time, 'till i sell this truck and move on to a rc8b conversion. Its just sooo attrective to buy a truck that has the same grip with sc10 barcodes as the sc10 4x4 with minipins :/ ...not to mention the shocks. The only disadvantage for me is the high price and high weight.

We had a discussion about this a few thousand post ago but i will explain a few things! There is a reason why the spur gears cost what they do, they are not east to machine, first of all they are made from a stock spur gear (4.00) and they are molded out of non machine able plastic (makes it very tough to clean up after machine work is done) while machining the material twist around the tool so about halfway through i have to program stop and pull material off of the tool. The ball holes you could probably drill the your self but would need an indexable super spacer to get the holes on the same B.C. and concentric with the center hole. If the holes are not on center you will not get a groove on the washers and that will also make a mess. Now the pin holes are a complete different animal, I know it looks like they are just holes stuck in there but if you read on the RCShox thread Cameron and i went through dozens of spur gears trying to get the right location of the pin holes. they are not on centerline and they have to be a certain distance away from the balls to work properly, also the ball holes are not a standard drill size, they are interpolated with an endmill, same with the pin holes. So in a nut shell and to answer your question, yes by all means you can drill the holes your self but it will not work properly. Machine work is a "by the hour" trade, take your 4.00 spur gear to a machine shop and see what they will charge to drill the holes for you. CNC rates are generally 80.00 per hour and i promise with programming and setup it would take about an hour to get the first one done and 8-10 minutes of cycle time to do the rest! so now you know why they are 13.00!!

Put the price thing in perspective for a minute, do you know how much it cost to make a lexan body, yet nobody complains about shelling out 50 bux for something that literally cost about 5.00, in fact the packaging cost almost as much as the body!! Tires, do you really think it cost 20.00 to make 2 tires, once again they are worth about 2.00 yet we all buy them every two weeks or so, sometime more than that! http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ballstud-Set-2

6.50 for something that cost the factory less than 25 cents but we all have them! I am just saying, a 13.00 spur gear is not that bad in the grand scheme of things especially if it works!

Well put. Excellent way of explaining all the time and work that is needed to make a product.

...i do! but doesn't matter, they cost what they cost and we can't do something against it. Unless there's someone who makes reliable bodies and decides to sell them for low cost (to get more costumers) instead of going with the mainstream-price it's the same with RXs, they doesnt cost much in production but are selled for more than 50$ thank god for orangrx

My friend and I are doing just that. Not marketing them at all... just for ourselves and locals at our track. Will be roughly double thickness, no goo needed for a lower ready to take the abuse weight and less expensive.

Tired of tearing through bodies every few months and dropping $60 per all in with paint.

sounds interesting... do u sell them and how do you produce them? Maybe i could ask some people at our track to make a collective order. We use nearly as much bodies as tires

Using a local place to do the mold and forming. We looked into doing it ourselves but would not be how we want the finish. They have 300ft/lb vacuums... we don't

Need to paint & run it before any could be sent but I'm sure I could figure out getting a few out in the mail. Don't want to be selling these things on a regular basis, and dealing with anything near retail... I already put in enough hours of work in the day, just kind of doing it for ourselves.
Will let ya know how the prototypes turn out.