I didn't think there would be as chassis flex is minimal but it still worried me...still does a little

Do you run yours over the top?

LOL dry those tears now now there you go.... Uhmmmmmm what was the Q I must have missed it.

Thanx I take some time on tires The medium Zap gap filling glue it dries slow (green bottle). Makes for some easy and clean gluing.
I have yet to have it wear through. I do get some scuffs so its definitely getting some flex but no pinches. I would guess it to take years of wear to become an issue. A good way around that worry would be to run them like Rigor. That's the best example on this thread I have seen. Lots of benefits to running your wire that way this side of over the top of the deck. I choose to run mine a shorter length and attempt to keep the weight to the rear as much as possible.

Does anyone know if a b44.1 front bumper would fit on the b44.2 (mounting holes)?

Thanks!

I sand and glue my top decks..all my CF parts really I still worried about the edge cutting through..Even though I check my stuff after every race day. I spent over an hour deciding to go over the top or under on my build with 13g...went over..

It should the part numbers are a good way to verify the differences in parts. Like the new and I do like the new a-arms. They are the same # as the old ones. So I am guessing they will be the new norm..

My teack has a large tripple with a quick left 90* turn. When I land the big triple on the downside the car feels great. If I over shoot at all, the back end rotates around on me. Obviously landing the downside is what I want to do every time but I am wondering if this rotating can be corrected with setup a little bit??
I'm running kit setup but green rear springs and 32.5 oil + a 50 gram ballast weight. Tires are correct for the track

UN4, your the go to guy on in wheeler. you got a pic of a .1 arm vs. a .2 front arm?? thank you

AE does it to us all the time, same number new part. Never know what you'll really get until stock is refreshed at suppliers.

You know with the new spur shield I don't think there is a really bad way to run the wires. It made it better for keeping the spur off the wires. Next race day I will get some pics of wire jobs at the track....LOL I probably have some. The open CF brace is tempting just to stiffen the twist up in the chassis.

As for pepping the CF I don't, not cause its not a good idea I just have never had an issue or felt the benefit of doing it. It's a good idea that started with a black marker...LOL And It seals the ends but it never saved any of my carbon when I did do it. It would get all chipped and then I would have to repair it or get the ole black sharpie out. Its one of those personal preference things we can do but it wont really make the kit perform any better or make the CF last any longer IMO. Scuffs can be cleaned up with a sharpie.

Thanks. Ordered the .2 yesterday. Love Tower's $50 off! :-) Also got a full set of Avid batch 2 springs from Amain, Tower was out of the Ae kits.

Awesome. It's a fun build and like a great massage, there's a happy ending LOL

Your bottoming out when you over jump it and the chassis is hitting the ground which in turn will cause the back end to break traction. You can try a heavier spring or heavier oil. However, keep in mind that heavier oil/spring will take some traction away at the respective end of the car. I wouldn't make such a change unless the track is filled with big jumps. If this is the only jump you're struggling with, it's better to work on down-siding that jump instead of making a change that may upset the car on the rest of the track.

I just do the the top decks as an ocd thing not because it's needed. even though I round the edges of the top decks I don't like to "pinch" my wires between it and the motor...an OCD thing I guess.

If you watch it all the time it won't be an issue but for those who "set and forget" it might be...