They may have based it off of one but it's just about the same length and weight as a 1/8 buggy chassis

There's something to be said about the huge parts following that Traxxas has. Once you've built that up, I'm sure it's hard to step away from it.

That said, I don't think we'll see major redesigns until they bother with a new MT.

I have been seeing on the traxxas forum that a combo of the FLM cup and the STRC diff housing works pretty good. i may add in am extra skid plate or something and see if that beefs it u pa bit. I haven't ran into an issue yet but I'm gonna be beating my E-Slayer hard next year and my ERBE rebuild will be complete.

I just found a pic of my brushless E-Maxx from last year and compared it to my brushless E-Revo this year. Even with my E-Maxx on 6s 5000's and my E-Revo on 4s 5000's I still enjoy it just as much as my E-Maxx. Both are great trucks and I'd be as happy with one as the other. The E-Maxx was a tiny bit more fun, but throughout history I have always had a little more fun with the Maxx trucks. I've had all the versions of all the trucks and the latest offering are certainly the best yet by far.

New member to the Forum. First post here. I have an 1/8 E-Revo Snap-On MM and a Pede 4x4. My first truck was the E-Revo. First 2 days I had it, I Put in two front Bulkheads. I ended up picking up the pede 4x4 so I Could actually drive the damn truck without having to fix stuff everytime. I've driven lots of other cars and this is my opinion on E-Revo. Wayyyy tooo heavy. There's no reason that thing should weigh that much. Factory handing blows. There's nothing like coming into a corner and flipping onto the roof and sliding acrossed a parking lot while other cars cruise on by. Yea, U can adjust camber and roll and all sorts of stuff, but theres no reason for the weight, or the cheap construction of the parts. I've been reading the forums all morning and I see little to no mention of the Bulkheads or Rear body mount??? These things break every single time You land hard or start having any type of actual Fun. I have mine on craigslist as we speak. I'd keep it if I wanted to spend hundreds on aluminum parts and over 300 on 2 3-cell batteries. The stampede on the other hand is extremely durable and takes an butt-kicking on the daily. Personally I think my local hobbyshop specializes in Traxxas because its the cheapest crap with the highest profit margin for their shop. That just my .2 cents

Check this out guys.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...brushless.html

Hello Guys!

Any pinion recommendetion for a Leopard 2000kv +4s combo? I have 62T spur. 17T seems not enough for nose-up. I just want good fun bash and a little reserve. 21/62T maybe? Or should I go lower on spur?

Thanks

try 20t pinion with 54 spur.

Hi Experts!!
Quick question was having a play swapping between controllers on my new e revo (bought a docking station one as well as the standard B/T link) but now seem to have developed an annoying trigger function of:
Accelerate then go to brake and it stops but then I have to pull it back to neutral then to brake/reverse again.. So wont go from Accelerate - Brake - Reverse in 1 smooth motion.
Have I altered a setting in the ESC when pressing the link button? If so how do I get it back to "normal?"

Thanks Guys.

Hi Experts!!
Quick question was having a play swapping between controllers on my new e revo (bought a docking station one as well as the standard B/T link) but now seem to have developed an annoying trigger function of:
Accelerate then go to brake and it stops but then I have to pull it back to neutral then to brake/reverse again.. So wont go from Accelerate - Brake - Reverse in 1 smooth motion.
Have I altered a setting in the ESC when pressing the link button? If so how do I get it back to "normal?"

Thanks Guys.

The esc has two options to engage reverse. You can have it set for throttle, brake, go back to neutral, then reverse, or directly from throttle to reverse. This is an esc setting, changing the Rx or Tx wouldn't effect this. It is possible the esc is not calibrated to your new Rx or Tx and that's causing the issue. Anytime you change the Rx or Tx you need to recalibrate the esc to them. Make sure the throttle trim is set to 0 and the EPA's are maxed out in forward and reverse to get a good calibration.

Thanks!
Sorted