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Old 12-31-2012 | 09:38 AM
  #26581  
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For the person who was looking for a +8m but didn't want to spend $80.. Check out this ad on rctech.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ldog-body.html
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Old 12-31-2012 | 10:39 AM
  #26582  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
For the person who was looking for a +8m but didn't want to spend $80.. Check out this ad on rctech.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ldog-body.html
Excellent deal!

Last edited by Matt Trimmings; 12-31-2012 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 12-31-2012 | 12:11 PM
  #26583  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
For the person who was looking for a +8m but didn't want to spend $80.. Check out this ad on rctech.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ldog-body.html
I would jack that in seconds if it wasn't for the battery brace i already have and the body lol... I want the jconcepts finnisher one.
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Old 12-31-2012 | 12:33 PM
  #26584  
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ok, so I stopped running my esc wires under my battery a few months ago because the batteries were crushing the wires. I was concerned that the shielding would wear and short out the esc. So I coiled them and ran it over the rear 1/3 of the battery. The problem is removing and installing packs messes up the coils and I have to constantly recoil the wires. Is there a good way to run the wires under the battery without beating up on the esc wires? In the old days we used battery foam on the bottom of the battery tray and this would raise pack 1mm or so and protect the wires a little. But since we all want a lower CG, we dont do that any more. So I am thinking about using and extension cable (replaceable) to go under the battery and connect to the esc and just tie up the esc cable and keep it near the esc. Thoughts?
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Old 12-31-2012 | 12:45 PM
  #26585  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
ok, so I stopped running my esc wires under my battery a few months ago because the batteries were crushing the wires. I was concerned that the shielding would wear and short out the esc. So I coiled them and ran it over the rear 1/3 of the battery. The problem is removing and installing packs messes up the coils and I have to constantly recoil the wires. Is there a good way to run the wires under the battery without beating up on the esc wires? In the old days we used battery foam on the bottom of the battery tray and this would raise pack 1mm or so and protect the wires a little. But since we all want a lower CG, we dont do that any more. So I am thinking about using and extension cable (replaceable) to go under the battery and connect to the esc and just tie up the esc cable and keep it near the esc. Thoughts?
I put a layer of duct tap on the chassis cut out for the wire, next i run the wire then put a layer over the wire. I use black duct tape and it looks good as well as works good too.
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Old 12-31-2012 | 12:47 PM
  #26586  
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thats the same thing I do. are the wires you are using pre-twisted like Hitec servo wires?
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Old 12-31-2012 | 12:50 PM
  #26587  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
For the person who was looking for a +8m but didn't want to spend $80.. Check out this ad on rctech.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ldog-body.html
i would snap that thing up to pitty i live in Australia
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Old 12-31-2012 | 12:58 PM
  #26588  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
ok, so I stopped running my esc wires under my battery a few months ago because the batteries were crushing the wires. I was concerned that the shielding would wear and short out the esc. So I coiled them and ran it over the rear 1/3 of the battery. The problem is removing and installing packs messes up the coils and I have to constantly recoil the wires. Is there a good way to run the wires under the battery without beating up on the esc wires? In the old days we used battery foam on the bottom of the battery tray and this would raise pack 1mm or so and protect the wires a little. But since we all want a lower CG, we dont do that any more. So I am thinking about using and extension cable (replaceable) to go under the battery and connect to the esc and just tie up the esc cable and keep it near the esc. Thoughts?
Put a layer or 2 of 3M painters tape over the top. I noticed the samething I havent noticed any wear on the wires since i started doing this.
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Old 12-31-2012 | 01:01 PM
  #26589  
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My b4.1 worlds is built with all electronics installed. However i do not have the bb shocks...as i've mentioned before. I drove a b4.1 with the suggested set up for the smaller shocks and it seemed ok. I drove another car with the bb shocks and what a difference. The bb's suit my driving style much better.
Here's my question....I have a kyosho zx-5 with kyosho bb's. Can I run those on the b4.1and will they be a direct fit or do i have to make any mods?
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Old 12-31-2012 | 01:07 PM
  #26590  
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Yes, Kyosho big bores will work, just make sure the travel is close to matching. I put Kyosho BB on my b44.1 and it was a huge difference. Also pay attention to the shock caps and whether they are the long or the short tops. I found the long ones work the best. If you can learn to drive with the small bores you'll actually carry more corner speed than the big bores. They're just not as forgiving.
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Old 12-31-2012 | 01:58 PM
  #26591  
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Does anybody know if they are going to come outwith a B4.2 since they out with the B44.2 thanks
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Old 12-31-2012 | 02:03 PM
  #26592  
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Originally Posted by chevydc44
Does anybody know if they are going to come outwith a B4.2 since they out with the B44.2 thanks
maybe.....maybe not....should be, when? thats another question
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Old 12-31-2012 | 02:10 PM
  #26593  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
For the person who was looking for a +8m but didn't want to spend $80.. Check out this ad on rctech.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ldog-body.html
that's a killer deal and all but 7 posts kind of scares me.
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Old 12-31-2012 | 02:14 PM
  #26594  
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Originally Posted by skoalisbad4me
Well that's what I thought and that's the one i was trying to put on but it seemed like it would not fit over the teeth of the spline. I wonder if he just got a batch of them that was made wrong or something.
I run savox servos pretty much exclusively on all my cars. The f horn fits but it's tight. Get it started by hand and then use the screw to lock it down.
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Old 12-31-2012 | 03:02 PM
  #26595  
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Originally Posted by adamym
Yes, Kyosho big bores will work, just make sure the travel is close to matching. I put Kyosho BB on my b44.1 and it was a huge difference. Also pay attention to the shock caps and whether they are the long or the short tops. I found the long ones work the best. If you can learn to drive with the small bores you'll actually carry more corner speed than the big bores. They're just not as forgiving.
Thx Adam, I'll give it a go.
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