The AE FActory Team B44.2 Thread
12-30-2012 | 06:28 AM
#1471
The diffs better not be getting dirty. Its very important to do everything you can to clean them. Check out my kit Matt just bought. day 1 diffs. And I have pounded those suckers. I wont say its a must to clean the CVD's that's why I didn't post it at first. Just adding it in to show how dang oily and gritty they are. The cleaning is mostly so the glue will hold the drive pin ring on. I have had them slip off and I am sure its due to not cleaning them. Our track is very kind to CVD's from no dust on the track, And makes for no maintenance that's why I put a spot of grease in there.
I have found that if your anal about maintenance a pipe cleaner works pretty good to dust them out with a shot of motor spray. Then just add some oil. Its easier than pulling them and doing it.
Some one posted that you diffs will last longer if you loosen them after each use. I agree 100% on that. But I set mine and leave them. Seems how I have good luck with my diffs as is.
Diff note:
I used to put all my diff shims on the gear side in the point one. I was skeptical about the 3/6 on the .2 and I have seen other people post that on the .1. After doing it on the .2 I am sold on it. 3/6. Its better. After a couple of packs its as free as the 0/6.
Okay I am done gabbing. On everyone's next build or rebuild some of this will help. Its good practice for every kit but doe's take more time. It doe's pay off in the long run.
I have found that if your anal about maintenance a pipe cleaner works pretty good to dust them out with a shot of motor spray. Then just add some oil. Its easier than pulling them and doing it.
Some one posted that you diffs will last longer if you loosen them after each use. I agree 100% on that. But I set mine and leave them. Seems how I have good luck with my diffs as is.
Diff note:
I used to put all my diff shims on the gear side in the point one. I was skeptical about the 3/6 on the .2 and I have seen other people post that on the .1. After doing it on the .2 I am sold on it. 3/6. Its better. After a couple of packs its as free as the 0/6.
Okay I am done gabbing. On everyone's next build or rebuild some of this will help. Its good practice for every kit but doe's take more time. It doe's pay off in the long run.
12-30-2012 | 06:34 AM
#1473
Battle cruiser....
12-30-2012 | 06:37 AM
#1474
12-30-2012 | 07:19 AM
#1476
I will say this. The only thing bad on this build IMO well aside from tossing ball cups. The front C hubs suck. The .1 had better ones and the 44 had the goofed up ones. These are like the 44. I thought the issue was resolved with the .1. I am tempted to just get some aluminum ones. It takes a but of shaving to free them up out of the box. The not true.
12-30-2012 | 08:50 AM
#1478
I will say this. The only thing bad on this build IMO well aside from tossing ball cups. The front C hubs suck. The .1 had better ones and the 44 had the goofed up ones. These are like the 44. I thought the issue was resolved with the .1. I am tempted to just get some aluminum ones. It takes a but of shaving to free them up out of the box. The not true.
12-30-2012 | 11:01 AM
#1480
Tech Adept
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 103
From: Sweden
Anyone had issues with the slipper assembly fitting into the chassis? My slipper assembly works nice outside the, fully adjustable slipper force from very loose to fully tight. Now when I put it into the chassis it is a tight fit, so the 2 ball bearings is essentially pushing the slipper together, making it very tight also at its loosest settings.
Also, the slipper spring is completely loose when set to its defined length, 2mm. I am running the stock spur, as I saw there was an issue with a too thick spur gear a few pages back.
Seems I got it wrong somehow, and I did rebuild it twice just to be sure....
Also, the slipper spring is completely loose when set to its defined length, 2mm. I am running the stock spur, as I saw there was an issue with a too thick spur gear a few pages back.
Seems I got it wrong somehow, and I did rebuild it twice just to be sure....
Yesterday I removed the slipper assy from the buggy and tightened the slipper spring quite hard, let it sit overnight and when I now reinsert the slipper it works much better, so in short false alarm!
12-30-2012 | 11:05 AM
#1481
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 372
I will say this. The only thing bad on this build IMO well aside from tossing ball cups. The front C hubs suck. The .1 had better ones and the 44 had the goofed up ones. These are like the 44. I thought the issue was resolved with the .1. I am tempted to just get some aluminum ones. It takes a but of shaving to free them up out of the box. The not true.
12-30-2012 | 11:16 AM
#1482
By far one of the smoothest and quickest builds I've done in 20+yrs. Strange to think AE is the same company that offers the billion parts SC10 4x4(which I do love) and then the B44.2 which seems to have so few parts and be so straight forward.
My only question is this, on the big bore shocks, the lower exterior O-ring which goes in the Blue cap, does it go into the bottom of the blue cap or up the outside portion of the threads on the shock body(because thats where I put it)?
Thanks, Joe
My only question is this, on the big bore shocks, the lower exterior O-ring which goes in the Blue cap, does it go into the bottom of the blue cap or up the outside portion of the threads on the shock body(because thats where I put it)?
Thanks, Joe
12-30-2012 | 11:23 AM
#1483
Does anyone have any problem with their Front suspension arm?
Seriously, i have no idea what happen, i broke the left arm on my 4th run (on the track)
and 10 mins later after the replacement, i broke the other right arm.
The car was running great with great stability on my first 3 track run, on this very 4th run, i find my car behaving very weird, which i never have this problem on my 44.1,
could it be my shock?
And does anyone have a problem with the front pointing lower on a jump?
I added a ballast at the rear though with zero drag brake setting
Seriously, i have no idea what happen, i broke the left arm on my 4th run (on the track)
and 10 mins later after the replacement, i broke the other right arm.
The car was running great with great stability on my first 3 track run, on this very 4th run, i find my car behaving very weird, which i never have this problem on my 44.1,
could it be my shock?
And does anyone have a problem with the front pointing lower on a jump?
I added a ballast at the rear though with zero drag brake setting
12-30-2012 | 11:34 AM
#1485
That's interesting. I always figured that it was there to keep the chassis from wearing. I was thinking that because the amount of resin before the actual carbon fiber is fairly small, once one started to wear into the weave it would seriously weaken or damage the chassis (even though the resin is obviously all the way though the carbon). Ehh... Still on the fence about whether or not to run one, they're kinda a pain, but they do have some upsides ( like clean screws).