Personally I couldn't imagine running a 4.5. My 6.5 is plenty powerful enough for my track and traction level.

iam going to play in the street

Get a tekin rs pro and gen2 6.5 and be done.
As mentioned, lrp and add to Orion are a good esc for this car.

It's a feather weight and a 6.5t is holy Jesus fast. 5.5 at the most but you will be hitting velocities on the street that if you hit anything immovable the buggy will self destruct into pieces.

Lrp and take your pick of mod 540 motor or tekin setup and your good.

I took some time to get some pics of my build to maybe help some of the fellas new to the 44/.1/.2 line. Just some things that should be done as you build the kit.
Mainly just not so much how to but pre-cleaning things and shots of why.

I use Q-tips to clean the out drives. You can see how dirty to clean the tips get.


Diff rings also. Man the grit on this set may have caused them to ware sooner as well as the grit on the out drives.


A shot of the diff spring and yes clean them to even the diff balls. It really makes a difference. This is before and after crimping them with pliers. Just a mild crimp not to tight with the grip. The rear ones I did were much more dramatic.



Now I do clean the gears but most important is to get the rough edges off it makes them fit better and less chance of small tiny pieces of plastic getting in the gear mesh.


More to come I was able to get the 4 pad in there. Man it was a trying effort but I got it done.

4/pad. This wont work... Its just over 2mm to wide to fit.


Take this out. And put 2, .25mm shims in its place.


This is how it will work. 2x .25mm shims. I chose to do it like this to move my pinion back.It will make lining up the pinion easier, later. Probably could have put both forward. Its up to the individual. I bet they have a better way but I am not aware of it?


Can't wait to try it. Also addressed an issue someone posted about the slipper nut slipping. I use blue loctite but I added some O-rings in hopes if it does slip it wont come off. And it took up some slop in the shaft cup. Its set at 2.5mm right now.

Here is the difference of the slipper spring after a tight grip with the pliers.
Before and after.
Had to crimp it tight. Other wise the spring was putting to much pressure on the pads at a 2mm setting. Now I should be able to get as much slip as I want or not.

I have 2 Proline chassis protectors as well as 2 Proline wings that I will sell if you are interested PM me.

UN4- I wish you had posted those before I had built my car. But oh well... my diffs will be okay anyways.

Also, I wonder what the extra pad will do. I have a feeling it's just going to be even more consistent than 3 pads.

I am going to be running a 4.5 so it should be able to hold up longer with slip and hold better if I want to wrench it down. After running the 3 pad with a 5.5 I would have to say the mod is not worth doing as far as a need for it. 3 pads hold up great as is. But now I have the option of moving my spur/slipper assy. back 2.5mm. I have to wonder if that would put much weight back to the rear and if there would be any benefit.?
I would like to play around a bit and see if I can get it set up with 2 pads on each side of the spur.

Check this out. This is what the Q-tip looked like after cleaning the CVD. I clean every part and put a dab of black grease in the cup of the CVD. The drive pin glues on better if you get all the oil off of it 1st. They last longer. But if I was running a dusty track I would not do the grease unless I was going to put boots on them. A little oil is better on a dusty track.

This was just the front set. They put more oil on all the metal parts now days.

And then go run it in the dirt........LOL

Get the new Novak Pulse and 5.5 or even 4.5 premium ballistic motor and swap the rotor to their sumarium cobalt tuning rotor. Then have fun smoking some fools.

Does anyone have any problem with their Front suspension arm?
Seriously, i have no idea what happen, i broke the left arm on my 4th run (on the track)
and 10 mins later after the replacement, i broke the other right arm.
The car was running great with great stability on my first 3 track run, on this very 4th run, i find my car behaving very weird, which i never have this problem on my 44.1,
could it be my shock?

And does anyone have a problem with the front pointing lower on a jump?
I added a ballast at the rear though with zero drag brake setting

The only thing I broke on my kit was the left front arm. 4 times..LOL none of which was a defect in the plastic though. As far as jumping mine is perfect. I don't run drag brake so you may check that.

I hit a Losi Battle Cruiser last night that decided he needed to stop in the middle of the track to adjust something during practice and I only walked away with a broken front shock shaft, arms were fine