I'd try green rear springs first, then green front and rear.. I settled on green front and white rear to calm the steering down. Loosening your diff to gain steering is questionable.. You need to loosen the slipper appropriately also. A loose diff will cause the car to rotate more, in my case too much. I run the diff on the tighter side to get more power to the ground sooner in a straight line and to rotate less when coming into a hard-slow corner. Good luck! Chassis weights and battery size/type will have a lot to do with it also, my B4 is 1600G fully loaded with a shorty

Try watching the fast guys and see if they are gasing thru the corner or coasting. You may get a bit more steering with spring tuning or a bit more weight up front, but "nature of the beast" pretty much sums it up.

I've got a question for those of you that use 4 scales to check weight distribution. What scales are you using, as they can be quite pricey. Thanks.

I have green front and green rear also in my case which I'll try some other time. I'm just gonna settle the play is from turnbuckles unless someone else comes up with a better solution. I feel my diff and slipper is proper in my opinion. There really is only a small part of the track where I can put full power down to the wheels as we do not have any straights, which is why I'm questioning about my steering, because the main mini straight to turn is where I wanna put the power down, but I can't do that if I'm going to be flying off the track because I keep going wide

Yup, I'll be sure to keep a watch out for that, I just I needa be a tiny less throttle happy when I go through the fast lines. I might get some weights to lay in the front of the car to keep my front wheels more planted. Prob will also help when I go through jumps since sometimes I tend to have the front up too high.

Hideeho
Hmmm, I don't see anything obviously wrong. I'm thinking more it is either a setup or driving style issue (as others have suggested). A 2wd will push more on power than a 4wd. Getting the car to rotate by loosening the slipper makes the front feel more planted. That's the point of loosening the dif. Probably talking 1/16-1/4 turn to make the difference. That will be enough to require a change in slipper though.

Before you add weight, think about moving weight instead. What size battery do you have? Where is it located? How far forward are your electronics? Moving things forward will accomplish the same as adding weight to the front with out increasing weight.

Changing ride height can accomplish weight redistribution with out moving anything. What are your ride heights front & rear? If you are at or around 24mm/24mm try dropping the front 1mm. If the back is lower, try raising it 1mm.

If you aren't having issues getting loose on power you can try lowering the rear kick up.

Jumping nose high is absolutely a driving style issue, not a weight distribution issue. Don't goose a 2wd right before the ramp like you can with a 4wd. Decrease throttle as you leave the ramp, don't cut it completely to idle, just back off to 3/4-1/2 throttle.

Use one scale and some wood to prop the other wheels to the same height as the scale. Then move it around to check each wheel. More of a PITA but works all the same.

So here are the photos of the Lunsford Ti BB mounts.

Those look nice. I have always liked their quick tune shock mounts.

you can try 1/2 of lead n front of the servo for more on power steering. Also, are those steel turnbuckles?

I have not used this but looks nice.

http://zeppinracing.com/portfolio-vi...r-scale-black/

And put your o-rings inside the shock collars.

So do you guys think a b4.2 is coming out? Id hate to buy a b4.1 put bbs on it etc and then a month later have another kit come out lol.

Then buy one with the BB's already on it. I'd sell mine.

If anyone is interested I have 2 promatch shorty lipos for sale,literally have 8 charges each,was saving them for when I run buggy but things have changed.75 for both or 40 each shipped. Pm me