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Old 12-28-2012 | 10:27 PM
  #1441  
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Matter of fact.. I am building a new kit tomorrow. Cant wait to scratch and scuff it up...LOL
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Old 12-28-2012 | 10:36 PM
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Yes but 8th scales have metal chassis. Carbon fiber acts a little differently in terms of wear compared to metal. We'll see how long I last with a chassis protector. At $10 a pop I'm going to stop using them if I need to get to those bottom screws a lot.
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Old 12-28-2012 | 10:42 PM
  #1443  
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Originally Posted by Racer X8000
Yes but 8th scales have metal chassis. Carbon fiber acts a little differently in terms of wear compared to metal. We'll see how long I last with a chassis protector. At $10 a pop I'm going to stop using them if I need to get to those bottom screws a lot.
I always throw mine in the trash. But they do have there good points. The AE kits have some really good carbon. I have honestly never had an issue. Just scuffs and scratches. Nothing that would seem to hurt anything yet. Matter of fact I don't know anyone at our track that runs them. None of the pros do either.
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Old 12-28-2012 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Racer X8000
Yes but 8th scales have metal chassis. Carbon fiber acts a little differently in terms of wear compared to metal. We'll see how long I last with a chassis protector. At $10 a pop I'm going to stop using them if I need to get to those bottom screws a lot.
I was referring to the dirt build up in the screws.
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Old 12-28-2012 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Racer X8000
That's interesting. I always figured that it was there to keep the chassis from wearing. I was thinking that because the amount of resin before the actual carbon fiber is fairly small, once one started to wear into the weave it would seriously weaken or damage the chassis (even though the resin is obviously all the way though the carbon). Ehh... Still on the fence about whether or not to run one, they're kinda a pain, but they do have some upsides ( like clean screws).
The under trays were initially brought in due to dirt getting lodged where the in-cads went on the old 44. Now, they're mainly used to keep everything shiny.
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Old 12-28-2012 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 07Forester
The under trays were initially brought in due to dirt getting lodged where the in-cads went on the old 44. Now, they're mainly used to keep everything shiny.
Okay, so they're really a legacy thing more than anything. That makes me feel better about not running one, thanks.
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Old 12-29-2012 | 01:00 AM
  #1447  
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Anyone had issues with the slipper assembly fitting into the chassis? My slipper assembly works nice outside the, fully adjustable slipper force from very loose to fully tight. Now when I put it into the chassis it is a tight fit, so the 2 ball bearings is essentially pushing the slipper together, making it very tight also at its loosest settings.

Also, the slipper spring is completely loose when set to its defined length, 2mm. I am running the stock spur, as I saw there was an issue with a too thick spur gear a few pages back.

Seems I got it wrong somehow, and I did rebuild it twice just to be sure....
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Old 12-29-2012 | 05:09 AM
  #1448  
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Originally Posted by Pellefa
Anyone had issues with the slipper assembly fitting into the chassis? My slipper assembly works nice outside the, fully adjustable slipper force from very loose to fully tight. Now when I put it into the chassis it is a tight fit, so the 2 ball bearings is essentially pushing the slipper together, making it very tight also at its loosest settings.

Also, the slipper spring is completely loose when set to its defined length, 2mm. I am running the stock spur, as I saw there was an issue with a too thick spur gear a few pages back.

Seems I got it wrong somehow, and I did rebuild it twice just to be sure....
The 2mm setting is a starting point that you will have to tighten to get right. Are the center braces on right? Something has to be on wrong. Is this a new build or have you raced it? Pics would help.
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Old 12-29-2012 | 08:31 AM
  #1449  
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what novak esc and fast motor to toss in her thank you?
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Old 12-29-2012 | 09:15 AM
  #1450  
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Are you guys glueing the servo savers like on the b4.1 ?
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Old 12-29-2012 | 09:18 AM
  #1451  
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You want something smoother than a novak in this car if your going to run a mod motor.

If your going to run a stock motor, novak will be fine. But lower that 13.5t... no novak. You'll need to take a drive I guess to your not so local hobby store or a track since you don't do solder. Take a trip to Tacoma and have WC help you.
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Old 12-29-2012 | 09:18 AM
  #1452  
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Originally Posted by ryanpatrickgore
Are you guys glueing the servo savers like on the b4.1 ?
I am. At least till they make one without a saver. I tighten the spring to the max and drop some thin CA on it.
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Old 12-29-2012 | 09:21 AM
  #1453  
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Originally Posted by fq06
You want something smoother than a novak in this car if your going to run a mod motor.

If your going to run a stock motor, novak will be fine. But lower that 13.5t... no novak. You'll need to take a drive I guess to your not so local hobby store or a track since you don't do solder. Take a trip to Tacoma and have WC help you.
i got a lhs here now and he dose good work an he hook my losi esc and motor iam good there. need a fast set up
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Old 12-29-2012 | 09:22 AM
  #1454  
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Originally Posted by fq06
You want something smoother than a novak in this car if your going to run a mod motor.

If your going to run a stock motor, novak will be fine. But lower that 13.5t... no novak. You'll need to take a drive I guess to your not so local hobby store or a track since you don't do solder. Take a trip to Tacoma and have WC help you.
I will have to +1 this post. I am running the LRP and that is all I will run. Well I am a SP fan to. But for me LRP ESC and any motor from there is fine.
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Old 12-29-2012 | 09:35 AM
  #1455  
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will it take the power of a 4.5 trun?
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