RC10B4.1 FT/WC
If you're running small springs then brown front, green rear. 30 wt in the front 27.5 wt in the rear. 3 limiters in the front and 2 in the rear. 24mm ride height. Run the inside hole on the rear arm and inside hole on rear tower. Then outside hole front arm and inside hole front tower.
Tech Master
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What do you all prefer, shorty packs or regular packs? I bought some shorty packs but after buying them, a few people told me they think the buggy handles better with a full size pack. So since I already bought the shorties, I guess I'm kinda stuck using them. Where's the best place to run them, front, center or rear in the battery tray?
Well don't steal it if you don't have to...
I like the shorty on higher bite tracks. more nimble. On low bite tracks, I prefer more weight to get the power to the ground. The nice thing about the shorty is you can always add back the weight if you need it. With the added weight of the BB shocks, we might see more people take lead out of the car.
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
I like the shorty on higher bite tracks. more nimble. On low bite tracks, I prefer more weight to get the power to the ground. The nice thing about the shorty is you can always add back the weight if you need it. With the added weight of the BB shocks, we might see more people take lead out of the car.
Does anyone know how to fix the steering when you turn one direction and your servo is pushing in that direction, but when you throttling through a turn you push wide until you slow down to turn the direction you want? I always see my servo trying to push my wheels the right direction, but it seems like its not getting enough power and is letting go. Not exactly sure how to explain it, but I hope that is enough. I already have the avid steering block and aluminum horn if that matters.
If you're running small springs then brown front, green rear. 30 wt in the front 27.5 wt in the rear. 3 limiters in the front and 2 in the rear. 24mm ride height. Run the inside hole on the rear arm and inside hole on rear tower. Then outside hole front arm and inside hole front tower.
I have already messed with the diff, I think its just that the rear is so planted its moving all the weight to the back. oil and springs seem good everywhere on the track, I dont think I wanna change the green rears but was thinking of going to a 30wt in the back or try the 3rd limiter in the front shock. Would appreciate your input.
With the big bore shocks how far are you guys screwing on the shock ends on to the shock shaft? I noticed that I had a lot less droop than several other b4's at my local track. Are most people just screwing them to the end of the threads on the shaft? Just looking for the desired method.
I used to screw them in till them bottomed out, then used digital calipers to match them side to side. Nowadays i screw them until they are even with the shoulder of the shock shaft, just above/at the top of the threads, then make them even side to side.. At least its consistent this way. Similar to gluing tires, i used to only glue the bottom bead where it meets the wheel.. Now i glue all the way where the wheel meets the bottom of the sidewall for less tire deflection. Not that one way is better than the other, i like the consistency of doing these 2 things, among others. You see guys tweaking their buggies for hours at the track for a reason.
It doesn't. I asked around with some of the fast guys and settled on the battery forward with a short pad up front, and an sc10 pad cut to size for the rear. I ran 13.5 and felt the buggy was well balanced. I prefered the shorty. The buggy felt more responsive, and easy to drive. Dont listen to what anyone tells you including myself. Run the shorty and then beg, borrow, or steal a full size pack and decide for yourself.
Well don't steal it if you don't have to...
Well don't steal it if you don't have to...
Coming to Wolcott tonight? I've got both packs, and can give you a hand setting your car up.
Does anyone know how to fix the steering when you turn one direction and your servo is pushing in that direction, but when you throttling through a turn you push wide until you slow down to turn the direction you want? I always see my servo trying to push my wheels the right direction, but it seems like its not getting enough power and is letting go. Not exactly sure how to explain it, but I hope that is enough. I already have the avid steering block and aluminum horn if that matters.
To me at least, is it possible that your servo itself is having issues? Anyway you can try a different brand servo?



