SC10 Thread Part 2
#2176
#2177
Tech Addict
iTrader: (24)
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 576
From: Broomfield
So I just picked up an SC10RS in RTR form. I had it out on the track for the first time yesterday. I had a couple breaks that we're fixable (hinge pin on the front caster block/a-arm came out, lost the spacer, and rear upper shock tower nut came off).
But, I have one problem I have yet to figure out. Occasionally the car will lose all power to the rear wheels momentarily, about 2-3 seconds, then it comes back. I can still turn the wheels but there is 0 throttle response for those couple seconds. This usually happens when landing hard after some doubles, but it also happened on smaller bumps. I doubled checked all the electrical connections as I thought something was being knocked loose on the landings, but found nothing wrong. I am using all the stock electronics that came with the RTR kit. Any ideas what could be causing this?
Thanks.
But, I have one problem I have yet to figure out. Occasionally the car will lose all power to the rear wheels momentarily, about 2-3 seconds, then it comes back. I can still turn the wheels but there is 0 throttle response for those couple seconds. This usually happens when landing hard after some doubles, but it also happened on smaller bumps. I doubled checked all the electrical connections as I thought something was being knocked loose on the landings, but found nothing wrong. I am using all the stock electronics that came with the RTR kit. Any ideas what could be causing this?
Thanks.
#2178
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,551
From: Rochelle, IL
So I just picked up an SC10RS in RTR form. I had it out on the track for the first time yesterday. I had a couple breaks that we're fixable (hinge pin on the front caster block/a-arm came out, lost the spacer, and rear upper shock tower nut came off).
But, I have one problem I have yet to figure out. Occasionally the car will lose all power to the rear wheels momentarily, about 2-3 seconds, then it comes back. I can still turn the wheels but there is 0 throttle response for those couple seconds. This usually happens when landing hard after some doubles, but it also happened on smaller bumps. I doubled checked all the electrical connections as I thought something was being knocked loose on the landings, but found nothing wrong. I am using all the stock electronics that came with the RTR kit. Any ideas what could be causing this?
Thanks.
But, I have one problem I have yet to figure out. Occasionally the car will lose all power to the rear wheels momentarily, about 2-3 seconds, then it comes back. I can still turn the wheels but there is 0 throttle response for those couple seconds. This usually happens when landing hard after some doubles, but it also happened on smaller bumps. I doubled checked all the electrical connections as I thought something was being knocked loose on the landings, but found nothing wrong. I am using all the stock electronics that came with the RTR kit. Any ideas what could be causing this?
Thanks.
#2179
Here is my version of JConcepts Carbon fiber body mount supports. Its a Titanium strip mounted... Also attached is a couple pics of my T4.1 that has been cut down with Titanium sides, I also added a titanium shelf for my ESC and RX. I also fabricated Titanium servo mounts too. I guess u can say I have been bored at work over the holidays... Its pretty nice to run a machine shop with a bunch of exotic metals...
#2181
Tech Addict
iTrader: (24)
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 576
From: Broomfield
I'm always stopping dead in my tracks as others are making the jump behind me and have to avoid my suddenly stopped truck or smash into me 
Also, anyone know where to get the caster block spacers that fit between the block and a-arm on the hinge pin?? I see they come with caster blocks on some websites and my LHS didn't have them.
#2183
I had the same problem with the electronics that came stock on the SC10 RS. I initially fixed it by setting the speed control to forward + brake with no reverse. A buddy on mine got a SC10 RS a few months after I got mine. He had the same cutout problem and thus we had to disable his reverse as well. When I got the RTR SC10 4x4 I didn't wait around long enough to see if the same things would happen - I immediately set the stock speed control to forward + brake.
I eventually burned out both of the stock Reedy (3300kv and 3500kv 550 ) motors and subsequently switched over to sensored motors and speed controllers. I need not tell you that I didn't bother with setting reverse on my Tekin RS or Hobbywing SCT Pro. I make myself suffer by doing the walk of shame from the driver's stand when I make certain types of errors!
I eventually burned out both of the stock Reedy (3300kv and 3500kv 550 ) motors and subsequently switched over to sensored motors and speed controllers. I need not tell you that I didn't bother with setting reverse on my Tekin RS or Hobbywing SCT Pro. I make myself suffer by doing the walk of shame from the driver's stand when I make certain types of errors!
#2184
Tech Addict
iTrader: (24)
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 576
From: Broomfield
I had the same problem with the electronics that came stock on the SC10 RS. I initially fixed it by setting the speed control to forward + brake with no reverse. A buddy on mine got a SC10 RS a few months after I got mine. He had the same cutout problem and thus we had to disable his reverse as well. When I got the RTR SC10 4x4 I didn't wait around long enough to see if the same things would happen - I immediately set the stock speed control to forward + brake.
I eventually burned out both of the stock Reedy (3300kv and 3500kv 550 ) motors and subsequently switched over to sensored motors and speed controllers. I need not tell you that I didn't bother with setting reverse on my Tekin RS or Hobbywing SCT Pro. I make myself suffer by doing the walk of shame from the driver's stand when I make certain types of errors!
I eventually burned out both of the stock Reedy (3300kv and 3500kv 550 ) motors and subsequently switched over to sensored motors and speed controllers. I need not tell you that I didn't bother with setting reverse on my Tekin RS or Hobbywing SCT Pro. I make myself suffer by doing the walk of shame from the driver's stand when I make certain types of errors!
#2185
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1
So I just picked up an SC10RS in RTR form. I had it out on the track for the first time yesterday. I had a couple breaks that we're fixable (hinge pin on the front caster block/a-arm came out, lost the spacer, and rear upper shock tower nut came off).
But, I have one problem I have yet to figure out. Occasionally the car will lose all power to the rear wheels momentarily, about 2-3 seconds, then it comes back. I can still turn the wheels but there is 0 throttle response for those couple seconds. This usually happens when landing hard after some doubles, but it also happened on smaller bumps. I doubled checked all the electrical connections as I thought something was being knocked loose on the landings, but found nothing wrong. I am using all the stock electronics that came with the RTR kit. Any ideas what could be causing this?
Thanks.
But, I have one problem I have yet to figure out. Occasionally the car will lose all power to the rear wheels momentarily, about 2-3 seconds, then it comes back. I can still turn the wheels but there is 0 throttle response for those couple seconds. This usually happens when landing hard after some doubles, but it also happened on smaller bumps. I doubled checked all the electrical connections as I thought something was being knocked loose on the landings, but found nothing wrong. I am using all the stock electronics that came with the RTR kit. Any ideas what could be causing this?
Thanks.
#2187
IMO the only thing that was really a drastic improvement was the Avid 12mm spring kit. Getting the springs up off the shock body made a huge difference. The Triad slipper is nice too, but the stock one is fine.
#2188
#2189
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 203
From: Cincinnati
#2190
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Steering rack. That's more important than everything except the right tires of course. If you don't either glue it or replace it, it deflects when going into a turn and makes your truck feel like it has a 8 foot snow plow on the front of it.



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