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Old 12-23-2012 | 09:04 AM
  #1306  
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Hey guys,

Im looking to get into 4wd and am a big Associated fan. Can anybody tell me the differences between the B44, the B44.1 and the B44.2? I cant find much other than shocks and shock towers.

Also, is it worth it to get a new B44.2 over a used B44.1 or even an original B44? It will be used for amateur racing. Nothing crazy.
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Old 12-23-2012 | 09:07 AM
  #1307  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
Why do you want to go through all that?

I'm praying for a response other than, "so I can run stick packs".
Hideeho
So I can run stick packs.

Actually that is part of it, but mainly I'm wondering about balance. All the tc cars run a stick lipo on one side & electronics on the other. L/r weight distribution is absolutely critical for on road, so there has to be a reason. I'm just wondering if it is feasible to try for the b44 platform to see if it balances better. I like to understand the concept behind the design. 1/10 off road 4wd is the only category that uses saddle packs virtually exclusively. 1/8 off road uses both, & tc uses sticks almost exclusively. I would like to understand why 1/10 4wd off road is different.
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Old 12-23-2012 | 09:14 AM
  #1308  
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Originally Posted by Waflet
Hideeho
Considering the steering design, would it be possible to relocate the steering servo (using a short servo like the Savox 1251) to the motor side? I'm assuming you would need to drill & counter sink holes for the mounting screws. Or, would it be possible to remount the dif mounts to the other side so the motor is on the servo side? No need to drill holes?

I'm wondering if it is possible to mount all the electronics on 1 side & the lipo on the other the tc's do. I would use a tc lipo mount.
Do you realize the amount of time, money, and man hours the engineers put into trying to make this buggy as well balanced and performing as possible? The electronics aren't just tossed down somewhere on the chassis for no reason. While what you're speaking may be possible, I'd say the chances of your buggy not sucking afterwards are slim. Go enjoy the car, as its fantastic.
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Old 12-23-2012 | 12:15 PM
  #1309  
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Originally Posted by rigor
Do you realize the amount of time, money, and man hours the engineers put into trying to make this buggy as well balanced and performing as possible? The electronics aren't just tossed down somewhere on the chassis for no reason. While what you're speaking may be possible, I'd say the chances of your buggy not sucking afterwards are slim. Go enjoy the car, as its fantastic.
Hideeho
Do you realize the amount of time, money, and man hours the engineers put into trying to make touring cars as well balanced and performing as possible? The electronics aren't just tossed down somewhere on the chassis for no reason.

Why is there such a difference? Would you not want your off road buggy to handle like an on road touring car with more suspension travel?
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Old 12-23-2012 | 12:24 PM
  #1310  
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Originally Posted by Waflet
Hideeho
Do you realize the amount of time, money, and man hours the engineers put into trying to make touring cars as well balanced and performing as possible? The electronics aren't just tossed down somewhere on the chassis for no reason.

Why is there such a difference? Would you not want your off road buggy to handle like an on road touring car with more suspension travel?
Considering its off-road, it already does handle like that! I have a TC6.1 too. Just go drive it
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Old 12-23-2012 | 12:53 PM
  #1311  
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Originally Posted by Waflet
Hideeho
Considering the steering design, would it be possible to relocate the steering servo (using a short servo like the Savox 1251) to the motor side? I'm assuming you would need to drill & counter sink holes for the mounting screws. Or, would it be possible to remount the dif mounts to the other side so the motor is on the servo side? No need to drill holes?

I'm wondering if it is possible to mount all the electronics on 1 side & the lipo on the other the tc's do. I would use a tc lipo mount.
this was the design of the Jconcepts BJ4, the precursor to the B44/.1/.2. If that was the better layout then AE would of used that instead of what they have now.
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Old 12-23-2012 | 01:01 PM
  #1312  
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Originally Posted by Waflet
Hideeho
So I can run stick packs.

Actually that is part of it, but mainly I'm wondering about balance. All the tc cars run a stick lipo on one side & electronics on the other. L/r weight distribution is absolutely critical for on road, so there has to be a reason. I'm just wondering if it is feasible to try for the b44 platform to see if it balances better. I like to understand the concept behind the design. 1/10 off road 4wd is the only category that uses saddle packs virtually exclusively. 1/8 off road uses both, & tc uses sticks almost exclusively. I would like to understand why 1/10 4wd off road is different.
saddle packs allow all the weight to be put in the back of the buggy so it can handle rough track conditions that offroad racing involves. if you wanna run stick packs in your 4wd buggy get a kyosho zx5 lazer
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Old 12-23-2012 | 01:07 PM
  #1313  
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Originally Posted by Waflet
Hideeho
Considering the steering design, would it be possible to relocate the steering servo (using a short servo like the Savox 1251) to the motor side? I'm assuming you would need to drill & counter sink holes for the mounting screws. Or, would it be possible to remount the dif mounts to the other side so the motor is on the servo side? No need to drill holes?

I'm wondering if it is possible to mount all the electronics on 1 side & the lipo on the other the tc's do. I would use a tc lipo mount.
Like the Azarashi Grey Seal? No stick pack though. It uses a shorty.


Last edited by CCristo; 12-23-2012 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 12-23-2012 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by CCristo
Like the Azarashi Grey Seal? No stick pack though. It uses a shorty.

There you go man, just get that. Exact B44 copy but with different electronics layout.
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Old 12-23-2012 | 02:31 PM
  #1315  
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Originally Posted by jec1521
Hey guys,

Im looking to get into 4wd and am a big Associated fan. Can anybody tell me the differences between the B44, the B44.1 and the B44.2? I cant find much other than shocks and shock towers.

Also, is it worth it to get a new B44.2 over a used B44.1 or even an original B44? It will be used for amateur racing. Nothing crazy.
The 44.2 has several changes not listed. All three cars have different chassis. The big bore shocks alone are worth spending a little extra money.
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Old 12-23-2012 | 03:21 PM
  #1316  
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Thanks for the wiring pics guys. Even you, Google Master, lol. I got mine all set up....
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Old 12-23-2012 | 03:25 PM
  #1317  
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My front dog bones are barely in the cup. 1 limiter in the shocks, middle hole on the tower, outside hole on the arm. Does this look safe/okay? Or should I slap another limiter in the shock?
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Old 12-23-2012 | 03:30 PM
  #1318  
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Originally Posted by CHIZZLE
My front dog bones are barely in the cup. 1 limiter in the shocks, middle hole on the tower, outside hole on the arm. Does this look safe/okay? Or should I slap another limiter in the shock?
Make sure the eyelet is screwed all the way on 1st. If it is then add a limiter. That's going to pop out for sure.
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Old 12-23-2012 | 03:32 PM
  #1319  
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Originally Posted by CHIZZLE
Thanks for the wiring pics guys. Even you, Google Master, lol. I got mine all set up....
Very nice work..... Might be the best I have seen.
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Old 12-23-2012 | 03:32 PM
  #1320  
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It's fine, do not add another limiter, especially in the front. They'll sit in there a little further once at ride height track ready. Look at pages 23 & 24 for tips, and you can find out more about the shock limiters and arm mounting positions. There is no need to mess with these though to be honest.

Last edited by rigor; 12-23-2012 at 08:46 PM.
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