no I wouldn't change setup much.

Look at tires. Tires. Tires. They MUST be broken in well and use some grip to help. Look at what everyone else at your track is using. make sure you glued your servo savor nicely bc that can be causing you sometimes pushing or spinning but it sounds like new tires

ik this feeling, take em to some sandpaper to speed up the break in. Grip definatly helps the break in also, some wd40 softens the tires up also but don't overdo it. Try coating it a day b4 you race and throwing them in a bag. If you want cheap grip, go 50% denatured alchohal, 50% wd40. It works better since it dries much more quickly.

I guess it can't hurt to try that. As I said in my original post, most people use m4 suburbs at my track so that's what I went with. I didn't use the foams that came with the tires though, I bought the proline closed cell front and rear and they seem pretty stiff. I'm wondering if maybe they're too stiff or something.

A touch of subtlety, exactly how color accents should be done. Last car that was done in red that I saw posted here had a bit too much for me. Every aluminum part was red.

He said that he was on the same tires as all the fast guys. M4 Suburbs, which are already really soft. Any softer and the tires will probably be squirmy.

If his setup is way off then that is the problem. If when putting the car together he just tried to make his own setup, this is likely the case. He needs to find a setup from a track that is similar to where he runs, or copy the setup of someone local whose car drives how he likes.

Every adjustment does something. If you are mistaken as to what those adjustments really do, and you make some weird combination of settings the car will be terrible.

I followed the instructions very closely and used the standard setup. After running for a little bit at the track, a couple people suggested adding some more negative camber so I did. Beyond that, I changed nothing. I actually did ask one of the guys I know that runs there if he could send me a copy of his setup sheet as his buggy is always dialed. He hasn't gotten it to me yet.

Like drummer said, you gotta break tires in for them to work. Take them out on the street and break them in a little.

I know WCRC Raceway, is "some of the best traction in the US" but the time where my tires work best is when they get to the point where after a run you have that fat line in the middle of the tires, almost completely worn out. Even though there is minimal tire wear at WC

Since everything else seems to be accounted for, My guess would be the diff or slipper is not adjusted properly. If the diff is too tight it can create a posi-traction effect. So when you try to accelerate out of a corner both wheels are spinning at the same speed causing a loss of traction and thus a spin out. Happened to me in the past. Having one of the fast guys set my diff properly did wonders for traction.

Thank you for the tip. Could having the diff too loose create a similar effect?

Yupp new tires aren't near as good at west coast. That's the only bad thing about the low tire wear there... it takes forever to get new tires down to the optimum amount of tread.

Good question. I am no expert, but my experience with a loose diff was limited because you can hear it barking at you on the track every time you give it throttle. So i would tighten it up right away. The only problem with this is by the time you hear the diff barking your diff is toast.

I would say yes it could have a similar effect because the one wheel would be spinning faster than it should while cornering, again causing the buggy to loose traction. But i could be way off here.

[QUOTE=R.Shackleford;11585410]A touch of subtlety, exactly how color accents should be done. Last car that was done in red that I saw posted here had a bit too much for me. Every aluminum part was red.QUOTE]

A touch of subtlety, exactly how opinions should be done...
J/k bro, I like your style.

Its not ALL red!

That's why after I mount up fresh tires I take them to the parking lot and do donuts

The setup suggestions you mentioned earlier are pretty radical -2 camber is much more than the -.5/ -1.0 mostly recommended the other changes are also usually "off board", like i said original worlds setup and proper tires for you track is is you best starting point.

Tire/insert break in may be the issue. Like others have mentioned, bar style tires need to be broken in. The PL CC inserts are very stiff when new, and take a good while to hit the sweet spot. You can speed up the insert break in by saucing the tires, wrapping them in Saran Wrap, then placing them in a Ziploc bag. Do this at least 3 days before your next race. Let them sit for a day in the bag, then put them back on the car and let them breathe for a couple days. The Saran Wrap will force almost all the sauce into the tire. The more sauce the tire absorbs, the more the foam will absorb. The more the foam absorbs, the more it will break down/in. Be careful, as too long with the Saran Wrap and the foam will be too soft. And not letting the tire breathe for long enough will make the rubber too soft. Also make sure wherever the tires are sitting for the post-marinade breathe is a "smell isolated area" as to not upset anyone else in the household.

Bro Codes?

You're right, the rear hubs are not red. I know when doing a one off build like that it is as much about the hunt for parts as it is the end result. If it were me, I would have just done the parts that were normally FT blue, and had everything else black or raw aluminum. But like I said before beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

If something is an opinion of mine I usually will not beat everyone over the head with it. If whatever I am stating is a fact, and nobody else has posted what is clearly the fact, then I am not so subtle. Case in point, Kellens post about the tires taking a long time to break in at WCRC. My factual response is to run the new pre-broken in Bro Codes. That or bust some sweet donuts in the parking lot (which others have mentioned).

Does anyone make a hard wing for 10th scale buggies? Something like what is on the ebuggys.

Before you change anything significant ride height makes a significant difference. 24mm front and rear is pretty common. You can have the setup spot on but if radio and speed control arent right your car will feel like junk too. These are even more critical in 2wd buggy than any other class.