The instructions for your esc detail what each of the settings do. Your really going to need to experiment with them to feel what works good for you.

Just looked over the online manuals for both the Flow Works and SXX V2 ESC's.

It seem the old SXX ESC's have 4 modes to program, while the Flow Works has 7.

They added Torque timing, Boost angle, and turbo timing to the Flow.

Don't mess with these 3 right?

Thanks!
-Venom

If I understand correctly you are in the process of getting your B4 together.

You are worrying way too much about way too many things. Put the car together and go to the track. Looking at your signature I see this B4 is your only track car. Driving a car on a track is way more difficult than just bashing. You are asking a bunch of questions about a bunch of stuff that you are not even going to be able to discern because you are so new. I'm not trying to be a jerk, just telling you the truth. Also, a 7.5 is going to be way too much motor. Get a 17.5 and set it up with no timing. It is going to take you 6 months to a year of racing or practicing twice a week to get it to where you are sort of in control of a 17.5. Get the car together, put the right tires on for the track where you are going to race, and get as much wheel time as you can. Stop asking questions about stuff that is over your head. Again not trying to be a jerk, just letting you know the truth

Repost, might have gone unnoticed

So regarding shaving the U-brace, seen pics and some descriptions of "better rear grip and helping the car rotate" but does that mean it will introduce an understeer? Next practice session I want to go out with a u-brace already shaved to try out but am still trying to get rid of a slight on throttle push on tight low speed turns.

No it will not create a push. As far as your under steer goes...who knows? It could simply be your front tires for all we know. With out seeing your car in person, it's way too hard to determine what needs to be done. Hell, it could be your driving as well, we don't know with out being there to see what all is going on with your car, the track or anything else. Are there no real good or sponsored drivers where you run at that could check out your car for you, or offer some advice for the conditions you are running on?

I was just curious if the u brace mod would change anything with the front handling, rear grip is currently good but want to try it out unless it created push or something. Im still learning how to dial in the buggy but I still have a few basic things to try in the front though that's why I didn't get detailed with my setup. Luckily a lot of the AE drivers are local but don't wanna bug them till I try a few things.

Got a question for guys using the kyosho BB shocks. I'm looking to get a set for my b4.1wc, and would like to know if these are the correct part numbers. KYOW5304V and KYOW5304V. Would I need to modify anything for the shocks to fit or are they a drop in deal?

Posted a new version of my big bore setup for those who are interested: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post11572120

+1 and +1 to tough honesty (intentions are right).
Get a 17.5 if this your first buggy/race RC. 7.5 is fast, but you'll spend A LOT more time on the bench fixing broken parts instead of getting faster on the track.

Shaved U brace makes my rear feel more aggressive for WCRC/OCRC. Make sure you use the C-hubs too if you're shaving the brace. If you don't like it, it's 8 screws to remove it. I ran at a different loose track and had to switch back for the day... keep both ready for tuning options

Instead of removing the brace every time you want to switch back, just use a 2mm spacer instead and any additional shims for tuning.

I have been running the B4.1 since the end of summer. I am confident I am ready to step up. Previously I have been running a 3300KV sensorless motor. I am not really much of a basher although my other RC's may look like it. To me, when I bash I am really just running around a make shift track in my front yard.

I just would like to learn some ESC settings...

I agree with them Venom. It takes most people years to be effective at Mod buggy. And mod buggy will only be faster for you if you can fully utilize the power. I have seen 17.5 guys run in MOD classes and beat everyone. Corner speed on the in field is more important than massive horse power for jumps.

Anyway,
I would have to look at the manual for your esc. But i can tell you, you do NOT need boost or turbo. So just turn those off. The setting that deal with smoothness or PWM are really just a preference. As for punch, that again is a preference. With a MOD motor on a lower bite track, you might want to turn that down. On a high bite track, you might want to turn it up a little. Again, it is just a feel. All of these setting can affect temp also. Drag brake is well drag brake. It is the brake applied when you have trigger at neutral. All of the setting deal with slope or curve adjust the feel also. Like Matt said, most of these setting are for feel. Since you are running mod, you really should run it blinky with no boost. Then adjust the drag to your liking.

Ah thanks. Think I will do the u brace mod before figuring out the front, then get back to to the front. My driving needs work too since I'm only in the mid 23second lap time range at ocrc, I have only had 2 practice days since getting back into the hobby too so spent that mostly turning laps than dialing things in. I feel like i can now focus on tuning things. lol Barry baker knocked out a 19sec run last sunday in the a main when previously I have only seen 20second laps in 17.5

+1

I just want to thank you for your contributions. I've got a lot of stuff that I need to try tonight. I'm experiencing massive front roll, and will be going down on the front R/C. I attributed it to my Barcodes with stock foams (maybe 1" wide). I'll have my full tire assortment tonight.

Bug em, bug em, they don't mind. It will/should save you some time.