Those little c clip looking things that clip onto the shock shafts. You will want to use those before putting on the lower cup. So, it would be:

- C clips
- Lower cup on top of these
- any C clips used for limiting travel

These clips will raise up your lower cup to take up the space so you don't need to have some much preload on the spring for ride height.

Hehe, I guess I know him well enough (from this thread) to prod him with my post.

I'd like to multiquote every post following mine about batteries, from heavjeff to heavyjeff again, but I'm too lazy, so . . .

Yes, there may be a range of in terms of quality of materials (e.g. purity), quality control (manufacturing process and standards), etc. But I would challenge anyone who posted (including myself) to teach us how and to what degree these factors may affect performance.

I think that on the whole the RC community members tend to "expect" more from higher dollar brands ad subsequently "see" more, in terms of quality, no of cycles, etc. But I suspect the difference in performance is much smaller than the difference in price.

PLENTY of people have puffed expensive batteries, for the same reasons they have puffed inexpensive batteries. I have seen plenty of posts about how great any type of battery is (it is not unusual for the lauded brand to also be in the proponent's signature). All this to say, there is a MOUNTAIN of anecdotal evidence, and a shortage of in-depth knowledge about the manufacturing and quality standards of various companies' products.

In one sentence, go ahead and buy inexpensive, and upgrade if they do not meed/exceed expectations.

P.S. I would argue knowledge, common sense, and safe practices play a much more important role than price when it comes to not burning up a battery (or home).

One of the best posts I think I've read on the "battery cheap vs name brand"..

I've certainly seen my fair share of expensive batteries puff. However, I've seen a lot more cheap batteries not only puff, but burst into flames at races (I saw a Turnigy do just that two weeks ago club racing).

All batteries can go bad, that's a fact everyone knows. Buy buying better batteries, you're just increasing your chances of having less issues and roasting your car.

I have those and the 5000mah packs. They have come well balanced and have performed awesome. Just be careful not to run them down to LVC. I did that several times and the case will melt right around the battery terminal. They still work fine and the cells are ok but it still makes me leery.

On the one's that blew up do you guys happen to know what they were charged at?

Cuz the nano-tech's are rated for up to 10C

drolmaeye

C-On , believe their are only one or two manufactures of all Li-Po batteries.
Some batteries they make are very good , many not so good .

Take a guess ,which ones are not so good ?

Personally never puff daddy a Reedy , not saying someone never has .
But its a rare sight to see a Reedy puff...

Another fact for you to ponder ...
I have seen many, countless in fact cheap batteries puff daddy.
Our Li-po grave yard is full of them ...

Some were even brand new ...

Some here compare and claim their cheepo battery is as good as the Reedy pack...

This alone should tell anyone Reedy sets a high standard for Li-Po packs for R/c.

Honestly I would look for manufacturers of batteries with a proven track record of standing behind there products with a warranty longer than it took you to purchase them, as well as excellent customer service.

After talking with a variety of people for when I was looking for a saddle pack battery, promatch came to mind for cost to warranty and customer service. Excellent performance too. If you need a cheap battery with a warranty nowadays, they actually are clearancing all there current batteries to go full on high end.

Back on topic I heard Acill did great with his latest setup. Hope to hear more on it.

Mike is using the new Ae 4x4 lite
Chris a Sc10 4x4 with VTS slipper ...

Whats a good start for shock limiters F/R?

8mm on Front & Back


I use Ae V2 shock pistons and drill them out to fit onto the shaft,
3 pistons per shock ...

What's the easiest way to redo the sct pro mamba esc wiring ? Is there a way to pull the casing off?

Why so much?

Barry, If you are going to IRH tomorrow (sunday) just bring some fuel tubing with you if you have. I have been running there since day one and that is my method of limiting the travel and having a little extra "give" if I case the landing, lol. You can experiment as to the amount, but I have about 8mm and its working fine. I havent had any wobble in my diffs in months. I am also running the diff mod where it gets cut and a bearing takes up that space. Works like a charm! That was thanks to Mr Coyote Slash from this thread. Was a fun night last night and should be fun again tomorrow. Shame I wont be able to race.....Prior commitments (read SHOPPING for the holidays). I might try to stop in on the way back home though. You offered to help me in the past so its my turn for input. 5K Rear and 20K Front. Clicker locked. Yellows all around. Watch the small sweeper at the front of the track coming into the double double. If you stay tight to the pipe and drift wide you will be fine. If you take it too wide on entry you the rear will step out on you and its a bitch to line up.

Hope that helps on a few fronts!

Sal

just right, the only reason you use the limiters is to stop the CVA's from bashing the outdrive
cups on hard landing..
BONUS
diff's will have a longer life & improved performance.